Eye Screw Size Preference And Source

[A-Mac]

I've been making my own eye screws out of 19gauge stainless for a very long time. However, I would like to find a stainless eye screw of comparable size.

I hate buying stuff over the internet without getting as much info as possible.

So my questions to you guys are as follows:

What eye screw dimensions (especially inside/outside diameters of eyes) and lengths do you prefer on your cranks (cranks comparable to the size of most bass fishing lures, squarebills, bandits, etc.)?

What sources do you use? Best prices?

Thanks guys!

[aaron4mvp]

Lure parts online has a large selection of stainless screw eyes. As far as size goes it depends on the size of your cranks. The dimensions are listed on the website it you want exact measurements. They give the length and diameter of the wire of the screws. You don't want a scree eye so big that it alters the action of the crank, but you do want something that will hold up to the fish and have enough length to bite into the bait.

[A-Mac]

Thanks. Ooo, they have an eye screw drill bit... that looks like an impulse buy.

[aaron4mvp]

Yea the eye screw drill bit is not something that I think is necessary. If you have the drill on high speed you could totally wreck your crank. Not to mention that you glue the screw eyes in anyways, so the bit it not really practical. I usually just use a pliers to twist them in.

[RayburnGuy]

Take a look at the link below before you order an eye screw bit A-Mac. You can build one in about 30 seconds that's self centering and works great.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/23303-home-made-screw-eye-bit/

As far as using screw eyes on bass size lures I'm not sure if you'll like the results. I tried them on a couple baits and didn't like the thickness of the screw. It also makes putting split rings on a little tougher too. The smaller split rings we use for bass sized baits can get deformed by having to go over such a thick wire and they won't close all the way once their on. And I just like the way the smaller gauge wire looks on lures of that size. But if you find you like them then disregard all of the above. It's more about personal choice than anything. The fish probably don't care.

Ben

[A-Mac]

Take a look at the link below before you order an eye screw bit A-Mac. You can build one in about 30 seconds that's self centering and works great.

http://www.tackleund...-screw-eye-bit/

As far as using screw eyes on bass size lures I'm not sure if you'll like the results. I tried them on a couple baits and didn't like the thickness of the screw. It also makes putting split rings on a little tougher too. The smaller split rings we use for bass sized baits can get deformed by having to go over such a thick wire and they won't close all the way once their on. And I just like the way the smaller gauge wire looks on lures of that size. But if you find you like them then disregard all of the above. It's more about personal choice than anything. The fish probably don't care.

Ben

Yeah, that is what I've been afraid of. The diameter is perfect with 19g wire, but it is my absolute least favorite part of lure making. I figured someone on here may have found some good eye screws. It would be really nice if they were a truly closed loop too, vs curled.

[RayburnGuy]

Yeah, that is what I've been afraid of. The diameter is perfect with 19g wire, but it is my absolute least favorite part of lure making. I figured someone on here may have found some good eye screws. It would be really nice if they were a truly closed loop too, vs curled.

I know what you mean. I hate making them too. Dave (Vodkaman) came up with an idea for making the barrel twist line ties and hook hangers. Don't know why I haven't built one yet. Check it out at the link below.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/22707-barrel-twist-jig/

Ben

[A-Mac]

That is impressive for sure. Of course, it is Vodkaman we are talking about! I've been using a drill gun, and mounting the tag ends in the chuck and wrapping around a nail. The problem with this is that a tag end will sometimes come out of the chuck when twisting.

[RayburnGuy]

I tested the simple twist that your talking about against the barrel twist and found the barrel twist to be a much stronger connection. Either one is probably more than sufficient to land fish, but you know how some of us are always trying to make things bulletproof. The thing about Dave's jig is that not only is it quick and easy it also wraps the wire in a barrel twist. Using Dave's jig you could make enough line ties in a few minutes to last long enough for many hours a lure building.

Ben

[mark poulson]

I hate twisting wire if I don't have to.

A while back I bought some figure 8 hook hanger, but I forget where I bought them.

Worth carries them, but I don't think that's where I got mine:

http://lurecomponents.worthco.com/sites/lurecomponents.worthco.com/files/catalog-pages/WorthOEM_2012%2098.pdf

I'm sure they are available other places.

I build cranks from PVC, so all I do is drill a pilot hole that is a snug fit for the hook hanger, add enough gap filling crazy glue to fill the hole, use some needle nose pliers to insert the figure 8 hanger, and then hit the glue with accelerator.

They hold fine, and I can easily set the belly hanger crosswise, so it cuts down on hook rash.

[A-Mac]

I hate twisting wire if I don't have to.

A while back I bought some figure 8 hook hanger, but I forget where I bought them.

Worth carries them, but I don't think that's where I got mine:

http://lurecomponent...OEM_2012 98.pdf

I'm sure they are available other places.

I build cranks from PVC, so all I do is drill a pilot hole that is a snug fit for the hook hanger, add enough gap filling crazy glue to fill the hole, use some needle nose pliers to insert the figure 8 hanger, and then hit the glue with accelerator.

They hold fine, and I can easily set the belly hanger crosswise, so it cuts down on hook rash.

Thanks. I've been looking into these too, especially for my mold lures.

[mark poulson]

I use crazy glue to set both my twist wire line ties, and my hook hangers.

I sometimes use small swivels for hook hangers, too, and set them with crazy glue.

I once tried to remove a swivel that had been locked by the glue so it didn't turn, and would up twisting off the wire. I couldn't get the swivel loose from the lure, and to drill another hole next to the first swivel to mount another.

So I know crazy glue will hold in PVC.

And I'm sure the line will break before the hook hanger wire either breaks or pulls out.

When I build balsa lures, where weight is important, I drill my hook hanger holes, add a drop of runny crazy glue, which soaks into the balsa and makes the area around the hole stronger, and then add my figure 8 hook hangers.

If you're concerned, try a test mount in a piece of the same material you use to build your lures.

Be sure the test piece is big enough to allow a good test.

Mount a hook hanger, and then add a split ring. Put the test piece in a vise, tie on some heavy line, and try to pull the hook hanger out.

You can even leave a weight hanging from it overnight.

You'll find out quickly if my system works for your material. If it does, it will save a lot of time.

[mark poulson]

I think I got my figure 8 hangers here:

http://www.luremakin...e_8_hangers.htm

It's been a while, so I'm not sure.

Edited October 30, 2012 by mark poulson

[A-Mac]

thanks!