nedyarb

Balsa Question?

12 posts in this topic

I buy my balsa from hobby lobby. The lure on the top is made from a 3"x3" block that I cut into 1/4" sections. The one on the bottom is made from 1/4" blocks that are already cut by hobby lobby. The top lure is much harder and darker, the bottom one sands like butter and is much lighter colored! Why the difference? Is it because the 1/4" wood has dried out more? If I cut the larger block and let it dry would it be softer? Thanks, RobEAEABB23-E992-480C-89A0-6FA411234046-1953-0000009DC907B438.jpg

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Balsa is like any other wood, it varies in density. You can generally expect it will be extremely soft, soft enough to dent easily with a fingernail. But there are variations in natural materials and you really must examine each piece to ensure uniformity. Even in a single board there are denser portions and less dense portions.

In my experience the softer balsa is lighter in color and has a less pronounced grain pattern. I think the capillaries in the wood are what contribute to the extra strength of some sections.

SS

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Blanks look really good by the way. Nicely sealed, and I much prefer the through wire in balsa as opposed to screw eyes.

Cheers!

SS

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Balsa varies in density from 6 to 18 lbs/cu ft - quite a range. Generally, the darker the balsa, the harder and more dense it will be. It's not the water content.

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I bought some from blicks the other day and same thing with my balsa I liked the hard peice's better .This is my first time . I shaped and sanded then split in half,put the through wire in guled together. Turned out ok needs small amount of puddy at the seam. Spliting the way I did it sucks. your's look awsome how did you hold the two peices together for shaping and sanding.

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I hold the two pieces together with blue two sided duck tape from Walmart. Then cut oiyline sand lure, then pull apart. i like doing two halves because there is no guessing where the center of the lure is and they swim dang near perfect every time.

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nedyarb realy gald you shared that,The 4 i bulit probably wont run true. who want's to put all that time in for not .Will you share your wire forming jig and the method you use to cut the bill slot.

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I cut the bill when the block is still square like in the pic, with a band saw. I just bend the wire because every bait is a bit different, so a jig won't work too well.E7E1940C-06E2-4F42-B59E-7C4E2730784A-1953-00000121B361829C.jpg

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Bass Shack one way to bend your wire for a wire through is to trace the profile of your bait onto a block of wood. If the line tie is going to run out onto the diving lip then you will need to lay that out as well. You'll need some layout lines where you want the wire through to run through the bait. Then just mark where you want your hook hangers and line ties onto your outline. You can then drive a nail the same diameter as you want the hanger loops to be into the spots where the hangers and line tie will be. A finish nail with the heads cut off works well for this. You will also need to drive nails above the belly hanger to wrap the wire around and make the bend where it turns down for the belly hanger. If you have trouble understanding my description just holler back and I'll either post a picture or draw a diagram.

There are other ways to build wire through harnesses. This is just how I do it for bass size lures.

Ben

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