mark poulson

Cupped Bills

16 posts in this topic

I'm wondering what the effect of the cupped bill is on crankbait actions in general.

Does it tighten their wobble, help them run more true, make them run deeper, do nothing at all?

I recently tried (again) to make a Fat Rap copy with PVC trim board.  

After making the belly a little deeper to lower the center of gravity as a way to make up for less buoyancy (it worked) I moved to shaping the bill.

The original Fat Rap bill has a V shape, which I duplicated in past attempts by bending the 1/8" lexan I use in a vice, with two spacers at the edges of the bill, and one in the middle on the opposite side.  When I closed the vice, it did bend the lexan, but it stressed it and eventually caused fault lines.

So this time, I hollowed out a piece of my left over PVC with the narrower end of my belt sander, heated the bill with my heat gun, and used the handle of an exacto knife to force the middle of the bill down into the hollowed out PVC, which was clamped in my vise.

It worked.  The Fat Rap swims with a tight wiggle, and doesn't roll at higher speeds, which is why I lowered the belly in the first place.

I know Hazmail routinely shapes his bills with hot oil and nesting dies, but I was too lazy to do that much work.

And the heat gun/hollow form worked out great.

So I'm thinking about cupping the bills in some of my deeper divers, but I was hoping someone here has already tried it, or, at least, knows ahead of time if it works, and what kind of effect it produces.

 

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I haven't built a curved lip bait, but it should give more action and depth. You can test this with a spoon and a bowl of water. Hold the spoon lightly to allow it to move and drag it through the water, one way then the other.

 

Dave

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Yep Mark it does work (cupping), I still use either convex or concave  - just finished a new die (Mach # B) which took about 130 blanks to get it right.

 

I have not tried this but maybe try and slump some over a piece of pipe in the oven @ about 180-200 C some bakeing paper may be handy.

All mine are set a 17mm length (apx 3/4") and the Convex lips will go to 2.4 M (8').

 

Concave lips @ same dimensions (green lure) go to 5m (15') @ a slow troll.

 

Worth a trial I think.

 

Pete

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Edited by hazmail
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Yep Mark it does work (cupping), I still use either convex or concave  - just finished a new die (Mach # B) which took about 130 blanks to get it right.

 

I have not tried this but maybe try and slump some over a piece of pipe in the oven @ about 180-200 C some bakeing paper may be handy.

All mine are set a 17mm length (apx 3/4") and the Convex lips will go to 2.4 M (8').

 

Concave lips @ same dimensions (green lure) go to 5m (15') @ a slow troll.

 

Worth a trial I think.

 

Pete

 

May i ask if you used a feather on the green one to get that pattern???

 

thanks Brent

Edited by Brent R

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Pete, 

Once again I'm amazed and inspired by your workmanship and artistry.

I only build for me, so a hand formed bill works, but I love how you've come up with a process to repeat the curved bill so perfectly.

I cupped the bill after it was installed and bent, so I could use the bandsawn slot for alignment and attachment.

Did you make a curved blade of some kind to cut your bill slots, or is the slot in the lure square?

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Those are some sweet looking baits Pete. And you've definitely got the lip bending down to a science. :yay:

 

Ben

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Sorry for the delay, been away for Xmas, hope you all had a good one.

 

Thanks Ben, it's only taken about 4 years and still not perfect.

 

Brent--Yes it is a feather, forget which bird. :?

 

Mark - although the lip is curved the rear end is flat to fit the precut slot so you can just turn the lip over for a different depth /effect. These are about 27mm long  (1 - 1/16" )

 

Pete

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Edited by hazmail

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Thanks Jerry-----------------Steve thanks also - memory has gone, I have a bag full in the shed but too lazy to have  a look, bought them when I was in U.K last year--amazing the stuff they kill / have over there.

Pete

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Okay ! It's killing me! Nobody else will ask . So may I ask how you got the feather design in the bait?

Edited by Hokieangler

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Hoki--Ned------Not many secrets here- Never be afraid to ask anything on L/L, the lure "brains trust" of the world in on here and most guys are willing to help  :drool: .

I have only made two of these and really it's easy--  If you know how to make and apply a 'waterslide decal' (called 'Transfer' here) just do it the same, BUT you need to add some sort of water based 'medium' to the water to make the feather stick  -  if you have never done this, Google "water slide decals how to".

 

Adding "Water based mediums" -- matte is best??? take your pick of brands, depends on the brand of paint you like to use, they are pretty much the same anyway.

 

Oh yeah sorry Hoki, missed that Q, "how do you get a feather design on a bait"??-It's not a feather design, it is a feather, you can buy by the bag, from the fly fishing shop.

Needs at least 3 coats of epoxy clear to cover all the high spots (quill etc)--watch out for air bubbles when laying it out.

 

Pete

Edited by hazmail

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This is the other one, smaller @ 5cm (2")

feather 1.JPG

 

The belly of larger 8cm lure, feathers can be plainly seen underneath .

Feather 2--.JPG

 

 

 

Pete

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