Mr.Nsmith

Clearcoat Option?

61 posts in this topic

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I have seen some else used this (and I was amazed at the quality) and I was wandering whether or not if somebody had used this product as well and other possible ways to clear coat a crankbait without yellowing....

 

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It will give you a nice glossy finish but it doesn't provide a lot of protection from rocks, teeth etc.... Nathan

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I would suggest doing a search for topcoats or clear coats using the search feature in the upper right hand corner of the page. There have probably been more discussions about this topic than anything else here at TU. There have even been "wars" started over this subject. You will find enough material to keep you reading for the next several days or until you go cross-eyed. Whichever comes first.

 

Choosing a top coat can be a personal thing with a lot depending on whether your building lures for fish like bass or toothy critters like pike. Your own personal preferences will factor in as well. Some guys prefer a harder finish like some of the 30 minute epoxies while others prefer a decoupage epoxy like Envirotex which gives a softer, more yielding finish. Some folks like the rod building epoxies. There are others who like the moisture cured urethanes like Dick Nites S81 formula. There has been a lot of talk lately about UV cured resins. Solarez is the one most talked about here lately. As you can see there is no limit to the number of choices as the above is just scratching the surface.

 

Most top coats have their own drawbacks. The hard finish with the 30 minute epoxies can crack if subjected to crashing into rocks. The moisture cured urethanes can be hard to store. The decoupage epoxies like Etex go on fairly thin and usually require multiple coats. All these things factor into the personal choice thing. You just have to figure out which one is going to fit into your way of doing things and what you expect from it.

 

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy
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Wow.....ummm well because of the arguments it's quite hard to decide which to pick because of drawbacks and being new to customizing....thank you, I think....

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The vast number and types of clear coats can be a little overwhelming at first, but once you get into it you can develop a feel as to what to expect. If your new to lure building one of the cheapest and easiest things to try would be one of the 30 minute epoxies. One good thing about the 30 minute epoxies is that they can serve multiple purposes like sealing wood baits before painting, gluing in diving lips, hook hangers, ballast weights and so forth. They are applied with a brush and are self leveling, but do require that you build some type of lure turner to rotate the baits so the epoxy doesn't all run to the bottom of the lure while the epoxy is still in the liquid state. There are multiple posts about building a lure turner and they're fairly simple to build.

 

If you'd like to try one of the MCU's then Dick Nite offers free samples. The size of the sample is a few ounces which is enough to do a few lures. All you have to do is pay for shipping. He only ships via UPS as his top coat is considered a hazardous substance so the shipping may cost a little more than the postal service. There are also numerous posts about Dick's top coat and I would again suggest doing a little research before trying it as the MCU's can be a little tricky to store. Dick's S81 formula is his MCU and is his most popular top coat. One good way to keep the S81 from starting the curing process while still in the container is to use the "tap the can" method and brush it on. You can find this by using the search feature at the top of the page.

 

Another suggestion, if I may, is to give some thought about what you'd like to try and then come back with specific questions. Specific questions are a lot easier to answer than something like "What's the best clear coat" because we all have our own opinions about what's "best".

 

Hope some of this helps and that I haven't scared you too much. Once you develop a system of building baits it will all become second nature.

 

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy

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haha well there are so many possible clear coats, its hard to decide which could be a possibility and a specific q is hard to say because then its presumed that its the choice your thinking of....  I'm not scared, I just want to get to the point that's all....which is most preferred by others and which clear coat won't chop my arm off for an .1 oz bottle for $40...Thank you.

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I could search for days and still not have a defiant answer of which is the best clear coat because of mixed reviews of every type of clear coat...Yes I could buy bucket loads of clear coats, it would not be the best financial decision, but I will know which is best right...but why do that....a simple conclusion to this of which is better clear coat will be simply nice...

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I agree with Ben.  If there were one clearcoat that was BEST, we would all be using it.  BEST can only be determined by whatever criteria you consider important.  Cost? Hardness? Clarity? Ease of application? Reliability?  Ease of storage?  Speed of cure?  Gloss state?  Toughness?  Film thickness?  You name it and you can rate various clearcoats in all these areas.  All of the clearcoats mentioned are fine for coating crankbaits - but they all have differences.

 

Many of us started out using one of the epoxies but most of us have tried most of the options.  For a simple solution that will work in most situations and will consistently result in a good clearcoat (and can be used for other build chores), I like Devcon Two Ton epoxy.  It brushes on well, levels out very well, and cures hard faster than many other epoxies.  As a good possible alternative, you might consider Solarez UV topcoat and read the current post on it.  I haven't tried it yet but it sounds very interesting as far as ease of use, speed, and results.

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WOW...   :worship:  Ben the two post on this thread was 1st class. I don't think you could have put things any better.

 

I hope you have a Happy New Year

 

Brent

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Bob worded what I was trying to say a little clearer. I always have a little chuckle when someone asks a "best" type question. If there were only one "best" then Baskin Robbins would only have one flavor of ice cream. And I'm not trying to confuse you are be a smart azz. Just trying to hit some of the high points so hopefully it will give you an idea of where to start.

 

Like I said earlier one of the 30 minute epoxies is a good place to start. Given it's multiple uses if you decide you don't like it as a top coat you will have other uses for it and it won't be sitting around on a shelf gathering dust.

 

If I told you to use top coat "A" it wouldn't be long before someone would start telling you about the trouble they had with it or that top coat "B" was a much better choice. I still think you should spend some time reading about the different choices by using the search feature. Pretty much any question you can think of has been asked, and answered, a dozen times before.

 

@Brent..............Thanks Brent. Hope you have a safe, happy and prosperous New Year.

 

Ben

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I started by using Devcon 2ton. It looks great, but I want to use something that I don't have to mix each time. I want to be able to top coat multiple lures without stopping, mixing, reapeat. Been reading this Solarez thread, and if its the real deal, it looks like just what ive been looking for. IMO if i was just top coating one lure at a time, I would stick with 2ton, but I like to sit down and whip out a batch at a time. The one thing that bugs me about 2ton, is that occassionally I get micro bubbles, I'm nit picky though, and I'm sure there is a trick to reduce that. Good luck.

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Same as with Shakyhead with the epoxy and Solarez, I'd read the ever so long article about Solarez and it just seems too much $$ for so little and if I interpreted the articles that you need the UV light bulb(s) to let it dry if there is not any sun so....And back to the varathane polyurethane clear coat and what Nathan had said.. I fish largemouth bass and wouldn't the bill hit the rocks if so unless you launch the bait at a seawall or dock perhaps...It's not that I dislike the 30 min epoxy it's just that I used a similar brush-on and the brush line were seeable and it wasn't great...so I'd preferred something that you could dip rather brush-on...such as the varathane polyurethane clear coat...

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I use Dick Nite for most of my work, yes it does have it's storage drawbacks but the finished product is outstanding both gloss and durability. On baits I want a high build on I use Etex Lite. There are a lot of epoxies out there made for the marine environment, make sure it has a uv inhibitor in it to avoid yellowing. Like the other guys said there is no best for all situations, we all would have differing views.

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Listen to these guys as they have given the best advise on coatings. I found one that works for me and how I build lures (which is not often enough) so price, availability of product, storeage, ease of mastering the technique of applying the finish, curing method,time to full cure, and durability.  All these factors went into my choice of finish.  I build for me and not for production. Pick one and work with it some rather than hop from one to another to another.  The one that works for you is the best one (for you).

 

Happy New Year and best wishes for everyone.

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Bobv, what you mean by storage issues? I understand what you mean EdL, I have seen the continuality of the same members on here that are popping up in most of these discussions and I understand that they're the "main" members that have the previous/ present knowledge of this...And for the Solarez is it at any stores such as home depot, lowes, mendards, etc?? or do I have to buy this on ebay or internet & such...

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As far as yellowing goes, I hear that all epoxy and any product whose name ends in "thane" will eventually yellow.  So clearcoats like Dick Nite or spar polyurethane will yellow but since their film is much thinner than epoxies you will notice the yellowing less.  Well measured and mixed epoxy will yellow slowly in several years.  Some epoxies contain UV inhibitors (Flexcoat UV, Nu Lustre UV) to delay yellowing but they cost more.  Finish yellowing is not a big deal to me since the life of a crankbait usually does not exceed the time it takes for it to yellow.  If it does and I think it's important to the bass (I rarely do), I strip it and put on fresh finish.

 

Dick Nite S81 is a moisture cured urethane (MCU).  After application, a MCU first dries as its solvent evaporates, then undergoes a curing process with moisture in the air by which it becomes much harder and tougher.  Performance-wise, MCU is right at the top of clearcoats.  The downside is that ANY air moisture that contacts the MCU during application or storage will eventually start the curing process.  So you have to maintain pretty heroic measures to keep MCU's from beginning to cure hard in the storage jar.  You can search to find best storage procedures for it. 

Edited by BobP

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If I pay that much for a pint from that site (it minus as well be shipped by hand by KVD, Johnny Morris, Bill Dance, Roland Martin, and Stacy King together at my doorstep)....Imma just gonna go to the Devcon clear coat......this is just craziness...

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How cheap do you think Devcon is going to be once you start coating cranks?  Devcon adds up once you start to do numbers.  Several guys just can't ever get the hang of using devcon most of these "quirks" are well documented over the years but none the less..... make sure bait is sealed properly initially, take account of the paints and what you used to seal as reactions have been known to happen, measure accurately, don't add bubbles, mix well, work quick, select a good brush that is cheap because you will likely chuck it, have heat source to help bring any bubbles to the top, have a system to rotate the crank to level, etc...... 

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I would go for an epoxy for durability, and In my opinion the type of epoxy depends on your locality, I live in a cold damp climate in the UK and have a cool garage to work in, I have always had problems with Etex regards the finish and found that Devcon gets me the best results.

 

Good Luck Dave 

Edited by DaveG

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I think the most important thing I would worry about on clear coating my baits is "waterproofing". I don't build baits out of wood so I don't have to seal my baits. What I worry most about; will water get under my coating and foul my paint scheme? This is why I use D2T, it takes a bit longer sometimes and I'm not able to do a multitude of baits but I like quality, not quantity.

By the way Ben, nice and concise post. No best, just what works all the time everytime.

 

Jerry

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Dick offers a special price for TU members, it isn't cheap but it is as good as you will find. As far as storage it has to be poured into smaller containers and never allow any to drip back into the container from a dipped bait. Also you should use a product such as Bloxygen to prevent oxygen contamination. There are volumes on clear coats in this forum.........search,search,search

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Mr.Nsmith

Like the rest of us , try -fail    try -fail    try -fail    try -fail -   try -- BINGO . You need to do some research and give some things a whirl . Just because it works for me doesn't mean it will work for you. 80 percent  of this stuff is trail and error .  Sorry,  You can't skip that part of the lure building process .  Its like asking what the fish are biting on.  My answer will  always be  "All depends"

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If I pay that much for a pint from that site (it minus as well be shipped by hand by KVD, Johnny Morris, Bill Dance, Roland Martin, and Stacy King together at my doorstep)....Imma just gonna go to the Devcon clear coat......this is just craziness...

 

Not trying to run you off, but if you are going to get into this hobby and think you can get into it without spending money.....better find something else to do. Everything you do when it comes to painting lures cost money. I'm not going to get into everything because it would take forever...and i have the flu and just don't feel good. But what the other guy's have said is spot on....and they have tons of experience and God now's how many lures they have done.

 

No...i'm not telling you what clear coat to use..but you said solarez cost to many$$$$....Solarez cost me 31.75 shipped to my house and thats for 1 quart. You can clear coat 500 plus lures with that quart.....2 coats per lure....you do the math per lure.  It takes about 3 minutes to fully cure. Only draw back i've found is it's not as glossy as other clear coats.  JMHO i don't think the fish care.

 

Like others have said ....it's what works best for you..Good luck on your venture and get out you wallet, because nothing is free.

 

Happy New Year, Brent

 

PS. I wouldn't let Roland Martin pizz on me if i was on fire.....and that's another story.

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