I have years of experience with boiled linseed oil , it was recommended in a certain luremaking book over here well about 12 years ago or maybe even more .
It says to soak your lure blanks in a 50/50 mixture of turpentine and boiled linseed oil for 3-5 days , after let dry for 2-3 weeks , ....at least until the timber would have lost the smell of it .
Through the years I have tried this method on abachewood , lime(basswood) , teak and local pinewood lure blanks , ......and I've found , that it is only suited for the lighter and less dense abache wood .
During the past two years I've also done it with a few natural slingshot forks from birchwood , but not painted these afterwards , but just waxed them .
As for lures again , ......lime did lose too much of its yet already smaller buoyancy , teak remains somewhat tacky due to it's oil contents and pine also generates some kind of reactions caused by the resin contents , some blanks did split up or I had problems with paint adhesion .
Finally abache reacts quite well , ......the waterproofing works well either , .....I have some abache lures more than 10 years old , their bite marks and hook rashes reach down to the sheer wood , ...still using them each season again , and they do not seem to soak up water , .......being topwater lures , I never sensed them to get to hang deeper in the water after a while of use .
But also a big drawback with these :
After months or years the linseed oil treatment might cause brighter colors on your lures to become somewhat brownish , in worst case some very ugly and dark brown stains would evolve underneath the lures topcoat .
It will not neccessarely happen to every lure , but also it is unpredictable , ......I believe , that it depends on the individual grain of every single piece of timber used , .......somehow a little share of the linseedoil mixture sets inside of it and does not entirely evaporate from the blank during the drying process and causes the problem after a longer period of time .
But as I've said , does not happen to all of my lures .
Also it is more likely to happen , when solvent based primers and color paints are used , .........so any acrylic paints should be a better option .
I've also found , that if a lure turns brown on it's white belly after while , this would not happen on spots , where ballast was glued into the belly , ....my last bunch of linseed oil treated abache lures I've primed with two coats of epoxy prior to the acrylic white primer and acrylic paint pattern(after 3 epoxy topcoats again) , ...just to separate the primer and color paints from the sheer wood , ........but just did it recently , ...time will tell , whether my theory would be right and no more brown stains would reach the surface of the lure .
Even , if everything should work out well , ...your wood would turn a little darker after the treatment , woodgrains will show more pronounced , ....looking good on ntural slingshot forks IMO .
So well , ....you see , that linseed oil is quite tricky in conjunction with paints , ......guess , it's rather more suited for gun stocks , natural slingshots or similar , .......all of other timbers but abache I'm dipping into ordinary liquid wood sealer from the tool mart , just to have a little protection ,......there are better sealing methods around , f. e. just yesterday I've started to dissolve propionate pellets in acetone , wanna try this sealing method for the first time , as I've finally found a source for the pellets in Europe .
good luck , diemai
Edited by diemai, 17 January 2013 - 03:03 AM.