First, I know nothing about Featherlite, so I don't know if anything I say will apply to it.
Alumilite Regular and Alumilite White will bond to anything except silicone while they are curing, but nothing really wants to bond to it once it is cured. So, there are a few things that can be done.
First, if you spray a primer coat on the material in the first couple of hours after it is poured, the paint will normally bond to the Alumilite. The quicker you paint the primer coat, the better the bond. For me, this is not an option.
Taking a hint from the owner of Alumilite, Mike suggested to me that I put a light coat of paint on the inside of my silicone mold before I pour. This actually transfers a bonded layer of paint to the lure, except for the pour hole and any flashing or sprue you trim off. Because my lures tend to require a larger pour hole, this is a good, but not a great option for me.
I checked out several "primer" materials. I checked out Krylon "fusion", because it is said to bond to all plastic. It really does not bond to the Alumilite. It makes it harder to scratch or chip the paint off the lure, but it is not a chemical bond. Less say it sticks to it, or forms a mechanical bond.
I talked to a taxidermy company that suggests their lacquer based primer that they use for smooth fiberglass replicas. They were out of the small quantities, so I tested instead the spray lacquers and spray acrylics out of rattle cans. I found that both improve the 'stick'.
Last, cleaning the surface of the Alumilite before you paint makes a huge difference. I used a green scotch pad then wiped it with alcohol first; this works very well, but again, improved stick, no bond. I also tried wiping with acetone, which also worked.
Finally, I found that with a good coat of ETec, it really did not need to stick or bond all that well in the first place. I make a type of lure that requires Alumilite White and microballons to make a shell, and then it is filled with a 610 foam. I and my fishing friends have a place where we fish along some rock cliffs. The rule is that if we cast 5 feet from shore, we are 4.5 feet too far from shore. Needless to say, we smash a lot of lures on the rocks. I have never ruined the paint job of my ETec coated, Createx painted, Alumilite formed lures. Factory lures don't hold up at all. LOL
In summary, if your Etec coat is good, or your D2T coat, then all you should need to do is use a green pad, followed by a wipe down, then either just paint or hit it with a rattle can clear, then paint and clear coat as desired.
I have not got my UV cure yet, but Bass100 says it is every bit as tough as D2T, so I expect the same results.