I don't make muskie lures, so I can't say whether this will work for you or not.
When I made wood lures, I used Etex, and then Nulustre 55, because they were more flexible and moved with the wood. They are both decoupage epoxies, designed for moving with large wood surfaces as the wood expands and contracts.
They also dented when I hit rocks with my lures (purely in the interest of testing) instead of cracking, like when I used D2T.
If you're really secure in the sealer you use, so tooth penetration and water intrusion aren't an issue, either Etex or Nulustre 55 will work for you. But you will need a turner for either of those finishes.
I've since switched to building with PVC, so water intrusion isn't an issue anymore.
I used a water borne urethane as a topcoat, because it didn't change the colors on my lures, even the metalic paints.
I've just begun using Solarez, and it seems to be a very hard, tough finish. It also doesn't need to be put on a turner. You can dip with it, clean off the drip buildup once it's stopped dripping, and hang it in a UV light box to cure in 3 minutes.
There are several Solarez threads in the most recent forum section with lots of details for how to use it.
But, even though it is "tougher" than D2T, less brittle, it still chips if I try to clean it up with knife.
So far, I've used it on cranks, and it's terrific.
I just made a couple of 3 piece swimbaits, and finished them with the Solarez. I'm taking them swimming Saturday. Hopefully, a 20lb striper will give them a ride, and I'll find out how the finish holds up on swimbaits.
More to the point, I'll find out how the banging of the sections affects the Solarez, which is where D2T failed.
I'll post the results.
Edited by mark poulson, 22 January 2013 - 08:57 PM.