dtrs5kprs

hard bait cookbook

113 posts in this topic

Never heard back from Jerry with a thumbs up or down on this, so let's just jump in and hope we don't cause too much trouble.

1) "Norman/Thundershad Rootbeer (yellow/green)"

-prep bait and spray white basecoat

-Belly color...Createx Flo Sunburst (lightly sprayed and with extender and water added for transparency)

-Sides...Mix Golden Acrylic Titan Buff, C-tex Tinting White, and Golden airbrush medium to produce a very light (in terms of "yellow-ness") opaque bone color...shoot sides and blend with the belly as needed

-Back color Rootbeer (yellow/green type)...Mix C-tex Leaf Green 10:C-tex Lt Brown 2: C-tex Golden Yellow 2 (10:2:2)...thin and extend with water and C-tex airbrush medium

-Splatter color...whether shot at low PSI & high viscosity or done with Hughesy's toothbrush method...C-tex Dark Brown, possibly with a little Tinting Black to darken the color.

-Clearcoat and add green or red flake (fine or ultra fine) at this point.

-Eyes...C-tex Red, Opaque Red, Scarlet, or mixes of similar

2) Some other mix ratios:

-Green Pumpkin...C-tex Leaf Green 3: Lt Brown 1

-Flo Red Craw...C-tex Flo Red 3: Opaque Red 1

-Pearltreuse...C-tex Flo Chart (yellow by name?) 4: Pearl White 1 + water and extender or medium...a neat color to shoot lightly over a pearl or hi-lite body.

-Pearl Green Craw (38 Craw)...C-tex Pthalo Green 2: Pearl Copper 3: Pearl White 1: Leaf Green 3...may have to adjust slightly if using Auto Air pearlescents...

*** If this is useful or interesting to you please add your own recipes as time allows.

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The JL560C Craw pattern is in this order:

1. Flat White Base

2. Opaque Yellow all over

3. Opaque Light Brown Scaling Through Mask

4. Opaque Dark Brown feathered up to back

5. Opaque Black Markings Through Mask

6. Opaque Black Back from Mouth to tail...

7. Flouresent Orange from Throat to Tail Bottom

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TOMATO CRAW:

10 parts Red

5 parts Orange

5 parts Flesh

2 parts Brown

Then dark brown to blend in the back and Opaque or Floresent Orange on the throat...

Chip :wink:

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"Florida Shad"

1.) Prime white

2.) Cover entire body with light misting of Createx Pearl White

3.) Createx Fluorescent Yellow down length of back and onto shoulder area

4.) Place netting over back, then spray Createx Pearl Turquoise LIGHTLY - you don't need a lot to get the desired look.

5.) Add eyes and any detail work such as a signature and shad spot

6.) Clearcoat - try mixing in some multi-color glitter.

Hope ya'll have as much fun with this color as I do!

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Here is the recipe for that bream I posted on the photos page. I have painted this on several other baits and it looks best on a bait that has scale molded into the bait.

1. Pearl White base coat

2. Olive Drab (homebrew) on back, fading down onto the shoulders

3. Lightly scale body with gold, slightly overlapping the olive drab

4. Using new netting, scale chameleon lilac over the olive drab. You don't want to spray any on the upper back, just the shoulder. Lightly blend in with the gold scale. A lot of the chameleon goes a long way, use light coats until you get the shade you are looking for.

5. Add a light orange to the chin and a gill flap just behind the eye area.

I hope this helps, I got a few requests for this recipe. If you need any assistance feel free to PM me.

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Couple of new colors:

Golden Shiner Ghost...

1) Shoot a CLEAR bait with C'tex Chameleon Blue or Gold mixed as follows:

-16 drops Chameleon Blue or Gold (preference)

-appx 1/2 that amt C'tex Medum and Extender

-thin with water and retarder

Shoot light, dry coats until you achieve the level of opacity/transparency you prefer. If using flexcoat, clear coat now, wait if devcon.

2) Golden Shiner

-10 drops C'tex Pearl Copper

-6 to 8 drops C'tex Chameleon Green or Gold (preference)

-4 to 8 drops each, C'tex Leaf Green & Light Brown

-thin with water

3) Shoot belly and "cheeks" with C'tex Pearl White...light, thin, and fast strokes

4) Highlight cheek/gill with the Golden Shiner mix

5) Shoot Gold Shiner scales on back

6) Highlight throat (lightly) and/or cheeks with C-tex Flo Sunburst (light flo orange).

Ghost Minnow...similar to Lucky Craft ghost Minnow

1) Shoot a CLEAR bait with the blue hi-lite body from the above color.

2) Shoot belly and cheeks with C-tex Pearl White.

3) Highlight cheeks with Gold Shiner color from above.

4) Shoot Gold Shiner back and slightly down sides of bait.

5) Shoot scale back, mixed as below:

-10 to 16 drops C'tex Chameleon Green

-4 to 6 drops C'tex Light Brown and Leaf Green

-2 to 6 drops C'tex Gray

-1 to 3 drops C'tex Tinting Black

-water to thin and mix...will cover and look best if you shoot it a little "dry"

MIX RATIOS BASED ON PAASCHE COLOR CUPS AND FC HIGH BUILD FOR CLEAR COAT.

Have a few of these finished. Good patterns for cranks and jerkbaits. Can also shoot these patterns on a white or pearl white base color, but with the obvious loss of transparency. Hi-lite bodies will look a little drab until you throw some clear coat on them...then BAM! Will try and get some pics in the gallery this weekend. Already have some on the way to FL, so will soon see...

Happy painting, good fishing.

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Anyone have a tried and true mix for "bone" color? Appears simple enough, just curious if anyone has a tried and true go to recipe.

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My favorite color for clear water is something I call "Eggman", which is a bone color pattern. I use acrylic latex. Belly is pearl white. Shoot a stripe of standard yellow on the sides, then shoot back and sides with a scale pattern of light tan (my bottle says it's "Goosefeather"). The yellow showing through the tan gives the back a bone tone. I usually leave a very slight fade of yellow below the scale line as an accent.

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Thanks Bob, the goosefeather color looks good. Would work well for bone. Thanks again...nice looking lure btw

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swedish perch

1.ochre sides

2.mossgreen over the ochre leave a bit off ochre towards the belly

3.antilopebrown to make the stripes with the template. freehand in so the stripes connect over the back.tone the back and head.

4.red for the fins also template

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Spring craw

1. flat white base coat

2. pearl gold belly from mouth to tail

3. orange sides

4. shoot back with orangish red and blend into sides leaving some orange.

5. rootbeer back

6. dark brown markings

7. black fleck on back

8. dust whole lure with gold pearl mixed with 3 parts water to 1 part paint.

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The brown color took me about an hour to get right, and sorry but I have no idea the ratios. The turquoise for the gill and tip of tail are an apple barrel color thinned, sorry but I'm moving and my stuff's all packed up and I don't remember the name of the color

1. White basecoat.

2. Spray entire bait with ctex pearl satin gold

3. Template and scale brown for stripes, sprayed lightly

4. Fill in back with brown

5. Spray turquoise over gills and nose, and tip of tail

6. ctex flour. orange for belly

7. blue color and painting method of your choice for kill spot

8. light coat of ctex transp. lite green over entire bait.

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Sorry, just found this from Bob P;

"Senior Member

image.php?u=1234&dateline=1166990023

Join Date: Oct 2004

Location: Summerfield, NC

Posts: 592

Re: need Recipe for the Ghost shad/sexy shad

Sexy = pearl belly, gray scale shoulders, medium blue back, then chartreuse stripe just below the gray shoulders. Black shad spot. Very faint chartreuse shading on front of belly, very faint red (pink) shading on back of belly. Sparse small silver flake on the belly and sides. If you shoot chartreuse over blue scale, you get green, so that's why the gray scale shoulders.

"

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Red Belly Grass Craw

I don't have a gun, so I use Krylon for now. These are the colors I use for the recipe;

Flat White base coat

Red belly (I typically use a medium shade of red)

Hosta Leaf green color for the sides and back

Medium Brown lightly sprayed over back (blend into sides)

Another light layer of Hosta Leaf over the brown (I alternately spray the green and brown until I get the right shade of green brown)

Flat Black very lightly sprayed on the back. This gives the bait a bit of darker speckling.

This is good color for the summer months and early fall if the fish are around grass and not eating baitfish. The sides and back blend into the grass well, but the belly flashes around on the retrieve and gets attention.I usually put a pair of red 3-D eyes on the back of the bait, near the tail. You can also add vertical lines to the body to imitate the craw body plates if you want a more exact replica of a craw.

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Nemo Blobs - how to

HQ1.jpg

StoneCoal, it's a bit hard to show how these were painted, as they take a while to paint and would need 4-6 photos (I am up to four now). I can tell you though - It is acrylic paint which I water down to about (guessing here) 20/1. The lure has to be pretty flat and held in a vice or something - using a small stick/nail (for bigger lures use a bigger stick) place the thinned color blob on the lure in the shape you want and let it dry. If you move the paint around while drying, you will get overlaps which will be darker shades of the original color.How it works as I am sure you would know, the watered down pigment tends to flow to the edge of the meniscus giving the darker line. Just keep adding colors and turning the lure (when dry) to add colors to top / bottom etc. It will speed up the drying if you use a hair dryer, but be careful as blowing the mix around may give you overlaps/ runs you don't want, then maybe you do, it's pretty random so try anything with it..

If that's not clear enough please ask again and I will try and elaborate. Have fun.pete

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Any of you Guys have a pike pattern your willing to share ?? I'm using createx , I found the colors I like for pike at Hobby Lobby,, The brand is "Anitas all purpose acrylic", these are water based kinda like the Apple Barrel , folk art brands.. Can these be sprayed with my air brushes ??

And as always , Thanks Guys, your amazing around here !!!

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Something cool that I have done: Take a bait that has a gill and use a red sharpie marker and make a mark over the gill. Than spray a good layer of clear lacq. over the bait. Hang the bait by the head. As the bait hangs the ink will run giving you a nice blured area behind the gill. It gives a cool look of a bleeding gill.

Michael:wink:

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Nemo Blobs - how to

HQ1.jpg

StoneCoal, it's a bit hard to show how these were painted, as they take a while to paint and would need 4-6 photos (I am up to four now). I can tell you though - It is acrylic paint which I water down to about (guessing here) 20/1. The lure has to be pretty flat and held in a vice or something - using a small stick/nail (for bigger lures use a bigger stick) place the thinned color blob on the lure in the shape you want and let it dry. If you move the paint around while drying, you will get overlaps which will be darker shades of the original color.How it works as I am sure you would know, the watered down pigment tends to flow to the edge of the meniscus giving the darker line. Just keep adding colors and turning the lure (when dry) to add colors to top / bottom etc. It will speed up the drying if you use a hair dryer, but be careful as blowing the mix around may give you overlaps/ runs you don't want, then maybe you do, it's pretty random so try anything with it..

If that's not clear enough please ask again and I will try and elaborate. Have fun.pete

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I think this crankbait color recipe book is a great idea . It'll let members share what they know works and help the newbies with some color schemes they might take years to work out on their own . I think there ought to be a whole new catergory in the fourms for this topic ( Mr. Jerry if you please )

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