Swimbait Inline Spinner

[archeryrob]

Ok, swimbait hooks in 1/4 oz wired onto an inline spinner with a 1/4 oz weight. Top is a #5 Colorado, middle is a #5 Indiana and bottoms a #5 Willow. Made for spring stripers and bass.

Colorado make lots of vibration
Indiana works the best on startup and running.
Willow starts on a jerk, but slips in the water and stops some times. I will not make more of the willow model.

IMO, paint blades are a waste of money, unless you let is rest to the bottom.  When spinning you can't see it and it actually reduces the flash.

Any thoughts on why these do not start very easily. They do start, but a little force on the start makes them better.

 

 

[smalljaw]

I really don't think you have a problem, every single inline spinner I ever used required a jerk or pop to get them spinning, I assume it is just the nature of the design. Safety pin type spinners for bass don't share that problem because they are above the body so there isn't anything close enough to change or disrupt the flow of water were on an inline the body is close enough that a slight direction change such as the angle chaning as the bait gets close is often enough to create a difference in pressure and stop the blade from spinning for a second or two. Those baits look fine to me but I will tell you what I saw Doug Stange do when fishing a swimbait on the back of an inline spinner, he rigged the swimbait sideways on the hook, it was a hollow body but he said he does it with any type, he puts the hook through the nose and then threads it until it comes out the side instread of the top so that the swim bait lays on its side. He also said to use an unweighted swimbait hook but I don't know what the reason for that was.

Edited February 11, 2013 by smalljaw

[JSC]

Just to add to what SJ said  ...  The swim bait on its side will cause the lure to "Plane" better  .. to get it more in line with the spinner shaft  ...  as well as using an unweighted Hook  removing any "Aft Weight"   that would  cause it not to plane as stright as possible  ... The Uncle Josh pork Frog was used on the Snagless Sally not only as a trailer but also to make it "Plane"  and therefore make a better Spinner Start.  ...  Try a few more Beads or Spacers between the clevis and the body.

Good Job

Edited February 12, 2013 by JSC

[ING]

IMO, paint blades are a waste of money, unless you let is rest to the bottom.  When spinning you can't see it and it actually reduces the flash.

Mepps on the Flying "C" spinners using three color painted French blade.

That lure one from the best for salmon!

Edited February 13, 2013 by ING

[PeteZipczech]

Nice looking baits... I understand what you're saying about the painted blades. I don't think they do much but cut the flash and help 'blend' in with the trailing colors.

I also agree, the willow leaf seems too long for an inline spinner like that and I can understand that the indiana blade works well. Have you tried a french blade? They are known to turn over a little quicker than the average.

[archeryrob]

I found some French blades in my old stuff and made up 5 for spring striper season. They are Chrome, so they shoul flash. I have not tested them yet, the river is up, the pool is covered and frozen. Darn winter!

[ROWINGADUBAY]

I disagree that you should have to live with jump starting inline spinners I have made a ton of them and scrapped out a bunch because of this very reason there are four main causes for your issue. The first two I will list are the most important.

1 There is a blade length to body length ratio. for example you need to add a few beads to your willow leaf and one more to the colorado spinner

2 Balance, your spinner should fall horizontal. Shouldn't be a problem with your design and the weighted hook will help. Nice Touch!

3 Clevis size  should match the size of the blade if your not sure start on the larger size.

4 Bearing surface never use hollow beads directly behind the blade/clevis

 

All in all I think your spinners look great the only thing i would change is to take the bead in front of the blade and put it behind this would give you a better blade to body ratio and would take some friction and weight off the clevis.One more thing to try if your still having problems is to leave the wire longer I am not sure what this does but I have made a few that worked but just not great until I used a longer shaft.You should take your "spinner kit" down to the water and try some of these suggestions in no time you will have perfect working spinners that will engage just as they hit the water and if for some reason they stop working after a fish or snag just change the shaft because it is probably bent.

Good luck

George

Edited February 14, 2013 by ROWINGADUBAY