Hoytdaddy

Pvc

50 posts in this topic

Yeah, they tried to charge me for shipping a couple of days ago. If I'm reading the menards website correctly. I can get a 1" x 4" x 8' for around 15 bucks. I'm going to check it out in a day or two.

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Yeah, they tried to charge me for shipping a couple of days ago. If I'm reading the menards website correctly. I can get a 1" x 4" x 8' for around 15 bucks. I'm going to check it out in a day or two.

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price sounds about what I pay at Home Depot.

remember that it has a hard skin that you need to sand off or trim off. check the end of the board to see if you can mark it with your thumbnail. they may also sell some vinyl trim boards that are hard as heck all through. also look at the end to see if there are any voids. these will sometimes run a long way through the board.

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If you plan to make cranks or swimbaits, cut them out with a bandsaw and shape them with a belt sander.

Your sander will remove the hard skin as you shape them.

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I too am a HUGE fan of Azek PVC. This brand is a "cut" above for consistent density and lack of striations in the castings. Doesnt like heat when sanded!!

I rigged up a potentiometer to my uber-cheap belt sander to slow it down, and it works great for adjusting the surface speed of the belt. This makes a huge difference in how well the material is removed. You wouldnt believe it until you tried it. A simple lite dimmer switch will work. I also switch out between a 80grit (roughing) to a 120-240 (fin), and get killer finishes. The last bit is done by hand and the sealing is done w/ low visc super glue. This seems to really close many of the open cells remaining and lowers the number of times that you will have to sand and re-prime.

I only had to reduce the belt speed by a little. I know it mite cause the motor to cook, but so far -no problems.

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Yup, band saw and sander. Then finish by hand. I was originally sealing with d2t. What is low vis super glue? This is a step I should also be doing. I can then make and paint in one day. Then I just need to decide the final coat.

Edited by Hurley

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I've been stocking up on tools in my shop in the last week for lure building and am also going to be using PVC board as well. Stopped by Lowes on my way home today to pick up some boards and my brother called about the time I had my hands on the PVC. Told him what I was buying and he asked why would I pay for something I can get for free. I had totally forgotten his old lady works for a vinyl fencing and board distributor. They have a huge pile of scraps waiting for me tomorrow. Only thing I'm not sure of is if this brand will work. She said it's called "Gorilla Board". Anybody know anything about it? With the luck I've been having lately it probably won't!!! LOL ................Joe

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Sorry, low viscousity. I use any thin super fast stuff. Watch out for fumes. Nitrile gloves, or a Ziplock bag over your hands.Plastic cutting board to work over, and to place the plug while it cures. Cures rock hard, and sands to a preemo base for painting. Its not a cheap sealer, but is my fav. fast-fast-fast.

I leave the dust from the last sanding on the surface. Just wipe on the glue, and make sure youre up wind of the fumes (outside). It will hurt you to breathe this.

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I've been stocking up on tools in my shop in the last week for lure building and am also going to be using PVC board as well. Stopped by Lowes on my way home today to pick up some boards and my brother called about the time I had my hands on the PVC. Told him what I was buying and he asked why would I pay for something I can get for free. I had totally forgotten his old lady works for a vinyl fencing and board distributor. They have a huge pile of scraps waiting for me tomorrow. Only thing I'm not sure of is if this brand will work. She said it's called "Gorilla Board". Anybody know anything about it? With the luck I've been having lately it probably won't!!! LOL ................Joe

I heard some guys talk about it, and like it fine. Especially that its free! The tiny voids and defects are what makes PVC a pain to paint; sometimes. Kinda like working with foam.

Saunders Supply in suffolk sells Azek. If you see this stuff, you will want some, The homecenter stuff is not as good.

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I plan to start trying pvc this summer. I have a old timer Norwegian wood carver that gives me his basswoos scraps for free but I gotta try this pvc thing. My question with pvc is that don't u lose some of the unique characteristics of wood that make it so special? The density variations, etc that can make a particular wood bait a unique fish charmer? Or is it the uniformity of it that you like so much versus wood? I've been wondering this for a while.

Edited by bsgorilla

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As a life long carpenter, I appreciate the variations in wood.

Having said that, the consistency and even "grain" of AZEK PVC, coupled with it's strength, buoyancy, hardness, ease of machining and carving, and the fact that it's totally waterproof, make it the perfect material for lure building for me.

When I'm building a lure, it eliminates any worries about water intrusion.

I can shape, weight, test, adjust, paint, top coat (Solarez), and fish a lure all in the same day.

It is a real find for me.

Thank you again JR Hopkins!   :worship:  :worship:  :worship:

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A few words about Azek trim board (I looked it up!).

 

Compared to woods typically used in crankbaits, it is substantially heavier:

 

Azek = 34 lbs/cu ft  (55 grams per cubic centimeter)

White Cedar = 20 lbs/cu ft

Balsa = 11 lbs/cu ft

Basswood = 23 lbs cu ft

 

Water is 62 lbs/cu ft

 

So yes, it floats.  IMO if you are used to using wood, Azek will be easier to use in larger baits, like musky lures or swimbaits where the hardware weight is a small percentage of the overall lure weight.  As you go down in size, hardware becomes a larger percentage of the lure weight, so if you want to build a 2 1/4" long flat sided bass bait that performs similar to a D-Bait balsa shallow diver, Azek isn't the obvious choice.  But I can certainly see using it in some other situations like mid-depth or deep lures where you want the bait to suspend or slowly rise.  Not saying you CAN'T use it for anything, just that you will have to alter your design if you are used to building with lighter woods.  And if you like balsa because it makes a very lively shallow bait, you will have to REALLY alter your design with Azek if you want similar performance (personally, I doubt that's even possible but admit I'm a Doubting Thomas). 

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A comment about samples from Vintage Woodworks:  they charge $5.99 to ship a sample pack of Azek.  I bit on it and my sample was 2 pieces of Azek, one of which is the trim board.  That piece was about 2 1/2" x 4" x 3/4"

 

So, it cost me $6 to get a piece of trim board sufficient for 2 small bass baits.  Bottom line:  if you're expecting to get enough board to make some baits, you're gonna be disappointed at the cost.

Edited by BobP

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Hope I didn't steer anyone in the wrong direction on the samples of Azek from Vintage Woodworks. When I ordered my samples there were about 10 different pieces (all of which were too small to build a lure) and the shipping was free. Things must have changed since I ordered mine.

 

Ben

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Try going to a local lumber yard and asking for samples of whatever PVC decking and trimboard they carry.

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Yep,

Just going to the Azek website will provide you the local distibutor. I went there (local yard), and was able to get enough free scrap trimboard (1 by 4) to make a bunch of baits. After this, I bought some off brand trimboard from the home centers, and realised how good the Azek was, as far as quality. Wont buy the cheap stuff again since its a pain to finish. I see no diff in strength or overall density. The voids and defects kill your fun.

Edited by markinorf

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I had previously bought my PVC from lowes. I didn't care much for it because it seemed really heavy. I bought some today from the lumber yard and it is much better, I recommend buying the actuall Azek PVC vs the other brands!

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I bought mine at Lowes last week. It was the " Evertrue " brand, I'm pretty satisfied in it's quality and weight so far. That may change on the next cut, but so far so good.

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Once you get the fiber glass skin off, can you cut it with a hot wire cutter?

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The fumes from a hot wire cutting PVC, provided it actually worked, would be really nasty.

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The fumes could be dealt with.

I heated a hook on the stove and it went straight through skin an all.

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I made a little improvised wire cutter. (It took me about 20 min: guitar string, 6 volt transformer, wooden frame).

 

It was slow but cut the foam board beautifully. It made a MUCH smoother cut than a knife, saw or sander.

 

So I am thinking...

 

Foam board Duplicating Machine.

 

Any Ideas for a heat tool? Solder gun?

Edited by robalo01

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