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Attaching Split Rings To Lexan Diving Bills

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#1 Woodland


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Posted 23 February 2013 - 06:11 PM

I'm just finishing up a batch home-turned crank baits. Some are going to be airbrushed, some of the fancier flamed maple baits are left coated in clear epoxy. Most I've fitted with Lexan diving bills. I guess one option is to attach an eye-screw to the nose of the bait, another is to attach a split ring to the diving bill. I'm guessing each type of mounting will provide a different action. Suggestions?

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#2 ravenlures



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Posted 23 February 2013 - 08:48 PM

I can't advise you on the ring but a fellow that I buy maple from did a picture frame with that pattern from a maple board and stained it. The stripes were dark and the rest was orange, it look fantastic. He used dyes.I tried some myself on a lure but did not come out looking like I wanted, maybe I will try again this summer. Great looking lures just in the unfinished wood.


#3 RayburnGuy


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Posted 23 February 2013 - 09:52 PM

If your talking about attaching the split to the lip only I would suggest against this. If you'll look in the gallery you'll see that on wooden baits with a lip a wire line tie is passed through the lip and into the body of the lure. This takes some of the stress off of the lexan and transfers it to the bait. Lexan can be broken fairly easily if the right forces are applied. By passing the wire line tie through the lip and into the body you can still land a fish even if the lip is broken.



#4 BobP


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Posted 23 February 2013 - 10:51 PM

It's a lot easier to put the line tie in the nose of the bait.  But if the lip is too long, a nose tie will cause the bait to blow out, so then you need the line tie out on the surface of the lip.  Looks to me that your lip is still short enough that a nose tie would be OK but you don't know until you try it.  As Ben said, if you need a line tie on the lip surface, the way most of us do it is to drill a hole in the lip for a friction fit of the wire, then bend a right angle in the  wire and glue it into the nose of the bait as we mount the lip.  Not only does that transfer some of the stress into the bait instead of the lip, but it stabilizes the wire so that the line tie will not move around on the lip.

#5 diemai


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Posted 24 February 2013 - 03:21 AM

I'd put a screweye line tie in front of the lip's base , somewhere underneath the chin .


Made similar lures a while ago , ......also note the two line tie positions on the "Hawg Wobbler" providing different swimming actions : 




And here quite similar crankbaits , action shown in the end of the video :




If you want to attach your lure to the lip , ...I'd chose the Lexan lip not thinner than 3mm , ...and not only glue it in , but also secure it with at least one , better two crosswise screws or pins .


Off course sucha linetie/lip configuration would only work for deep diving lures , ...recently I've made a few utilizing a typical Australian way of attachement , named the "omega clip" , ........I've made them into a self-centering , lose fit ,...... but yet one should work accurately to let the lure track true in the end , ..........note the blue and orange deep diver in the attached video : 




There are also ways to furnish an attachement eye to a lip with the help of duolock snaps(unsave , if tag ends not bent close) , ....also special connector clips available for the purpose , ......but I find the omega clip to be the easiest way to achieve such .


                                     Cheers , diemai :yay:

Edited by diemai, 24 February 2013 - 03:23 AM.

#6 Seeking 56

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 09:23 AM

After reading Diemai's post about the duolock snaps, this link came to mind:  leolures.com