spoonpluggergino

Question Clear Coating With Devcon 2 Ton

26 posts in this topic

Just one coat for the baits I make.

 

Jerry

Edited by bassguy

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If I foil a bait, then I wind up with 2 coats. One for the foil,  then comes  the paint job, and the final coat of D2T.

Balsa gets 2 either way. One to seal, paint, then the second.

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Does anybody else have any problems with the d2t not completely coating the bait? I know I am covering the entire bait and when I take it off the drier it has spots that are not coated. Any tips on how to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Devcon is among the thickest epoxies.  I never use more than one coat.

 

3S, epoxy has to be "brushed out" so every spot gets brushed consistently.  I use a fine bristle artist's brush, Devcon thinned with a FEW drops of denatured alcohol.  It can also get fisheyes if you are coating a bait with spots contaminated with oil.  While curing, epoxy attracts epoxy and if there is an oil spot where epoxy is not adhering to the surface, the epoxy gets pulled away and causes a fisheye.  I'm not especially careful when handling painted lures.  The paint gets quite a bit of handling as I glue in the lips and I can't recall the last time I got a fisheye.  Maybe the amount of natural oil in your fingers is a factor, I don't know. 

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I find devcon is just to brittle unless u thin it I use 3 thinned coats tip!!!!! mix the devcon completely first with a brush then throw out the brush and use a new one to coat the bait hold it up to the lite to make sure its completely covered then repeat!

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I don't use D2T any more but BSI. If I see any spots that looked missed or pulled away a bit because of oils, i find that as the expoxy starts to thicken it will cover the areas if you go over it. I also find that Bsi does not pull away from the edges of lets say lipless baits like D2T tends to do. i think the most important factor is temperature and humitdity. JMO and found what works for me.....warming up the bottle help it flow better and bubbles and eleviate bubles. I mix mine up to a froth and do not have any issues

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Try wearing disposable nitrate gloves when you handle your baits to keep finger oils off of them.

CVS sells them by the box.

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I have also switched to bsi recently... i just feel like its a better topcoat. But when I used 2ton it was just 1 carefully brushed on coat with a few drops of day. I still use 2ton on my personal baits that I know won't be abused.

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@jt_ncbassman

 

I am not familiar with "bsi". Did a search but came up empty. Could you please explain? 

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Bob Smith industries.   I get it from the local hobby shops.   I use the 20 minute version for sealing baits and topcoats.   I think it's the best low viscosity, slow curing epoxy out there next to Etex.  

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Thank you

 

I have heard of Bob Smiths, though I have never tried it. I will look for it locally. 

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I think you would have better results with the BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy.....one coat is all it takes, dries to the touch in a few hours and is fully cured in 24hr  at 70 degrees. No bubble problemsif as long as you're not in hight humidity. Warm the bottles slightly slow it flow out better.

A local hobby shop shuld carry it as the RC guys have been using his product for years.

My hobby shop closed so I have to buy it online  I found this to be the cheapest place  hobbylinc.com

Bob Smith Industries is out of California and put the names of the local distributors on the bottles...but they are on only company that makes the 30 minute slow cure so there shouldn't be a problem distinguishing their product.

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Try wearing disposable nitrate gloves when you handle your baits to keep finger oils off of them.

CVS sells them by the box.

Mark is right on the money.  Make sure your disposable gloves are POWDER FREE too!  Epoxy's are bad about "fish eyeing".  Where disposable gloves every time you handle the lures from the point the wood is sealed until the clear coat is cured.  

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Yeah, the 30 minute slow cure is more suited for finishing baits.  It ends up being a little smoother and tougher.

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bare spots after coating? basic question did you clean the lure first before you coated it?  As far as bubbles after coating using a pen torch very fast over the lure to pop them... watch SolarBaits videos on youtube to get an idea how that is done. 

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Thank you

 

I have heard of Bob Smiths, though I have never tried it. I will look for it locally. 

 

Vic I have been using the BSI epoxy for a couple years now and personally I like it much better. It seems to be a little better at dissipating bubbles and the working time seems to be a tad longer. I can't say for sure as I have done no tests to verify my assumptions, but I don't see myself going back to D2T. I use the 30 minute for top coating and the 5 minute for gluing.

 

Ben

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@ Griffond 

Just apply a second coat. Epoxy will self level assuming your using a turner.

 

@ Richard , Ben

Thank you gentlemen for the information. How is the durability compared to devcon. My biggest complaint about devcon is it will sometimes crack upon impact( hard but fragile). 

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I don't normally fish around many rocks Vic so I can't really give you an experienced opinion on how it holds up to impact. I will say I've had no trouble with it holding up when fished around stumps, lay downs and other types of wood cover.

 

Ben

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I haven't had a single complaint yet, so apparently it holds up very well. It is quite as thisck as D2T. If you see some spots that looks like you missed or seperated because of contaminatio, just wait till it thickens a tad and dab the epoxy on it. it will cover. A good light is very important because it is easy to miss spots.I find that temperature and lack of humidity is the key. It needs 70F to cure

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