Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
sammy01007

Whats Stronger Than Devcon 2 Ton?

18 posts in this topic

To lighten my resin swimbait I have been exploring casting hollowed pieces. The idea was to make a hollowed 1st segment with solid resin, then forming the following segments with resin and micro spheres to obtain an ideal weight. The first segment came out lighter and stronger than expected. I tested the shock resistance by repeated throwing onto a concrete floor. I took a lot of force to get it to crack. But a slight twist of either the line tie or hook hanger easily separates the two halves glued together. I am using devcon 2 ton (5 min) to join the two halves. Is there anything stronger? I think the weakness is the ability of the Devcon adhering to the resin. I do not use any release in my casting, and I lightly sand prior to gluing. Not sure what else I can do except increase surface area. Attached is a photo of 1/2 of the first segment.

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

photo.JPG

post-18098-0-83982200-1362268213_thumb.jpg

Edited by sammy01007

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sammy

I am not an expert on swimbaits, but I am mechanically inclined and maybe this will help

I use Loctite heavy duty clear epoxy 3500 psi, Devcon is rated at 2500 psi, both are 5 minutes,or try a 30 minutes epoxy they have stronger bond

Another suggestion looking at your sectin if is possible I would install 4 very small pins at the front corner and toward the end of the bait, you can make the pins from the same wire you done your hook hangars and hinges, than when you put the halves together fill the litle holes for the pins with epoxy, install the pins and join the two halves together. The pins are so small should not add very much weight. Another idea is to drill the holes fill with epoxy, no pins the epoxy will bond together and the holes will act like an anchor

Hopefully this will be some help

Gino

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One casting resin I've played with seems to have an oil component mixed in that acts as a release agent.  Did you clean the glue surfaces real well with acetone or alcohol?  Ditto the above on the 30 minute cure epoxy, fast-cure epoxys don't bond quite as well.  You might also try either PC7 or JBWeld.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input. i did not clean the resin with anything, just lightly sanded with 220 prior to gluing. Gino, I like the idea of drilling some small holes and filling with epoxy to increase surface area. If this works I can include them in my next mold. I will also try some 30 minute epoxy.

 

Thanks for the advise!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive made hollow 2 part lures from resin, and had the same problem. Zap a Gap medium CA+ was the only "glue" that would work. Something about the oil based resins.

I even had trouble with Devcon on the exterior if I didnt post cure the lure halves, sand and clean with solvents. Hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try roughing up the surfaces to be bound with some 600 wet/dry sandpaper along with drilling a few tiny holes in a given  area on both sides of the piece to create a Devcon post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Markinorf,

 

Thanks for the info. I will look into getting the Zap a Gap if the 30 minute epoxy doesn't hold.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I tried it the first time, I kept thinking "no way'. So, I threaded one of the screw eyes (the eye was installed on the parting line)with a small cable and wrapped that around a pipe. After this abuse, I clamped down on the eye with some vise grips and proceeded to bend it back and forth. The halves never split, it just started wollering out the hole and I never did pull the screw out. Zap A Gap med ca+ is the only glue that worked. I tried all the others like pvc weld, epoxies...none would deal with the petroleum oils like the ZAG Ca.

The biggest trick is to NOT glue your fingers to the halves!!!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Markinorf

 

Thanks for sharing The Zap a Gap ca glue, I looked up the website and read all about the Zap a Gap and on the bottle it does say also on oily surface, tha should work on the swimbaits made from resin

Ditto on Zap a Gap, this will be part of my bait building supply

 

Thank you 

 

Gino

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered some online this morning. Sucks shipping equals 50% of the unit price, but what can ya do....

 

I also sent Alumilite an email looking for their recomendation, I'll let everyone know when I get a response.

 

Looks like Micheals might carry the small bottles, so next time I am near one I will check to see if they have any onhand.

 

Using the 30 minute Devcon 2 made no difference, just does not stick strong enough to the resin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try local art supply stores.

Out here in SoCal, Graphaids is a chain that carries 4oz. bottles of Zap a Gap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You gotta work fast and neat for sure. I had dowels in my patterns, so I could just put em rite together quick, and just squeeze like hell for 15 seconds. No clamps.You will need some acetone and an Xacto blade handy, cause I promise you that you will glue your fingers to the sides every now and then.Sorry if the pic is uber big.moldedtwitchbait_zpsbb47037d.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another consideration is to use the same resin as the "glue" as you did for the halves you are gluing. I have had good results doing this. With most resins, you need to be within two weight percent of the specified components to achieve a high molecular weight solid. If you try to glue two halves of a piece with low molecular weight and lots of unreacted resin you will have a poor bond. 

 

If I am using resin to glue a bait I wait until I mix the batch for the next bait, then I use the remnant to glue the preceding bait. Works out well too because at that point the resin is thickening up a bit. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another consideration is to use the same resin as the "glue" as you did for the halves you are gluing. I have had good results doing this. With most resins, you need to be within two weight percent of the specified components to achieve a high molecular weight solid. If you try to glue two halves of a piece with low molecular weight and lots of unreacted resin you will have a poor bond. 

 

If I am using resin to glue a bait I wait until I mix the batch for the next bait, then I use the remnant to glue the preceding bait. Works out well too because at that point the resin is thickening up a bit. 

Oh man,

Good job SS, I forgot about that.

That works like a champ. No doubt the same resin is even better than The ZapaGap. Just harder to clamp odd shapes and wait for curing. I do bubble repairs and mods for ballast holes with the same resin.

You know, Ive got 24 cases of memory suppliments somewhere in my house.

The best part of resin repairs is filing and sanding the excess. Zapagap is like Kryptonite compared to resin in hardness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Satellite City makes good CA glue as well, they have regular, gap filling and super gap filling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0