highwayman Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I've looked on another site on how to construct a large in-line spinner and have questions about the design and hoped you musky guys might help me out.My biggest issue is the front hook was attached by putting a split ring on the treble hook and then just sliding it onto the wire through the split ring.It seems like this would put the bait out of balance.Having a single wire construction may cause the bait to get bent out of shape need frequent retuning.I was thinking about putting some weights, beads, blades etc.on a wire that is separate from the back half skirts,heavier weight,etc using a split ring to connect together making a hinge effect.Just a couple questions and thoughts any of yours would be appreciated.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 seems acceptable, just remember to keep the joint restricted to prevent it from pivoting up and tangling on itself while casting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makokeith Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I have been toying with the idea also for stripers in salt water. What size wire are you going with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwayman Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 It's pretty substantial-.031 I think.It's stainless steel filler rod that I use for through wiring hard body plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 What are you using for weight? I just made some .030 wired for stripers with 1/4 oz swimbait hooks and 3/8 oz body weight. I want more weight on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwayman Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 It's a work in progress and I haven't gotten quite that far.I'm thinking of using two #8 colorodos which have quite a bit of lift so I'm thinking maybe an ounce or more.Something I'm sure I'll have to fart around with.The other consideration is not to make it so heavy that it wears you out using it.After throwing a 1oz spinner bait (which isn't big in musky standards)all day;I'm spent.{I'm also old}. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ING Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) I've not grasp an idea of yours design. What do you mean "front hook"? Is it located before body or blade? What a sequence of parts on the wire? Thanks Edited April 10, 2013 by ING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny boy Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 I guys i am in the process of making musky bucktails . I have studied a lot of brand names and the best second hook holder is a clevis the same used for the blades with a bead in the middle .good for keel weight too.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Check out the way Mepps makes there H210 double tens. I have been making them the same way for a number of years. They simply add the first treble to the split ring on the hinge, and the extra lead is added to the wire between or after the flashabou. I like the hinge a lot for keeping fish from getting leverage when shaking their heads and they don't bend up as bad. Second tip is to add a small sleeve of shrink tube on the that first treble and fix it towards the bottom of the shank. It really helps to keep the flash from sticking between the hooks in the bottom of the treble. Good luck, it's fun to make them, Rocko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
