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biggamefish

Wanting To Start Using Auto Clear

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Okay i want to start using auto clear, i know that they are very hazardous but what the heck they give great finishes so im up for a try at the very least. I have ask around and it seems like dupont and ppg are some of the more common ones guys use, im thinking about using dupont but how do i know which one of the dupont clear fits my application? Im using createx & polytranspar waterbase paints painting on jointed urethane resin swimbaits, i have use 2 part epoxy and they go on kinda thick and i dont like it much, it kinda affects the action of the baits so my solution is auto clear.

 

another question is can i use my paasche talon gravity feed gun to spray the auto clear? I have the .63" or .66" needle and fan cap on my talon air brush.

 

any help on pointing me in the right direction would be great, Rayburnguy n the other guys hope u chime in

thanks

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Here is a thread that gives a LOT of different info about spraying auto clears. It would take me the better part of a day to type all the info contained in this thread so the best I can do is give you the link. You'll also find much more info about using auto clears by using the search function. Auto clears are one of the things that have been discussed at great lengths over a long period of time so, for me at least, retyping all the info is not an option. And I believe that most, if not all, of your questions will be answered in this one thread.

 

Now on another note. I have stopped using auto clear as a top coat after I had some failures with it. One of the baits that had been cleared with the auto clear was taken to Lake Falcon for it's first fishing trip. It had three separate "wet" coats applied to it and had several weeks to fully cure before being exposed to the lake. Started fishing it early one morning and caught one that weighed close to 8 lbs. maybe 30 minutes after starting that morning. It was right after landing the bass that I started noticing white spots on the bait. The auto clear top coat had failed and the underlying paint had started coming off when continuing to fish the bait. Thank goodness the bait was built out of PVC and the only thing that was lost was the paint job. I still haven't figured out exactly why the auto clear failed, but just the fact that it did was enough for me to stop using it.

 

good luck,

Ben

 

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/22705-spraying-automotive-clear/?&p=169650&hl=+auto%20+clear&fromsearch=1#entry169650

Edited by RayburnGuy
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Agreed. There are so many options out there that are far superior to automotive clears that I ruled them out almost immediately into my luremaking obsession....

 

Just for the heck of it...name a few that are superior to automotive clear......just wondering....

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I used HOK clear once on an early bait and it failed miserably. If you know of an automotive clear better than HOK let me know about it... It just seems easier to use a topcoat that dries with some "give", like D2T, ACC or others that are popular here... My experience with auto clears is that they dry hard as a rock and consequently crack and/or chip at the first bounce off of a rock or other bottom cover/structure....

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That being said.... If you could turn me on to an auto clear that is flexible and has some shock absorption properties I'd love to know about it. In my warehouse I have a pro quality Binks ventilated spraybooth that is perfect for spraying paints that are too hazardous for common garage use... I used it when I shot my HOK system with nary a fume inside! The neihbors might have smelled 'em but it's an industrial complex... If they did I never heard about it.

Edited by bluetickhound
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we have used auto clears for 30 years. its awesome on hard plastics and metals. yes its hard,but far superior then clear lacquers. never ever had a peel issue. if theres peel its the undercoat or coloration paints. . while anu urethanes,there not made for woods or producys that flex ex...woods..

i have spinner blades that have gloss still after 12 years outside my shop in canadian winters. yes the floro colors faded but the gloss is like day one.. remember guys a baits like a sandwhich. your base/primer then the color then the clear. without the adherence of good primer and good clear you will have failure.

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POLANE

 

If you can coat a golfball with it and it lasts and lasts then imagine what it's like on a fishing lure :)

 

Ask Sherwin Williams :)

 

 

Just for the heck of it...name a few that are superior to automotive clear......just wondering....

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POLANE

 

If you can coat a golfball with it and it lasts and lasts then imagine what it's like on a fishing lure :)

 

Ask Sherwin Williams :)

 

How about giving some info on this......never heard of this stuff but would love to hear some more and i'm sure other members would too. What size of container does this stuff come in and the cost? Does it work on wood and plastic? Thanks for the post.

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http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT〈=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=F63Y9

This was the most infirmative piece I could find on Polane.... Apparently there are a few varieties (B, T...etc). I had never heard if it until now but will be in touch w/ Sherwin Williams tomorrow. Some if the ither links I looked at price it out at around $100.00 a gallon....

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I did also see where someone said Polane required a pressurized pot to spray it... If so, that lets me out.... If it can be dipped I'd be very interested in this stuff as it is supposed to be good for wood, plastic and several other substrates....

Edit: never mind.... The link I posted clearly says it can't be dipped, brushed or flocoated.... Too bad. Sounded like a great product....

Edited by bluetickhound
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I did also see where someone said Polane required a pressurized pot to spray it... If so, that lets me out.... If it can be dipped I'd be very interested in this stuff as it is supposed to be good for wood, plastic and several other substrates....

Edit: never mind.... The link I posted clearly says it can't be dipped, brushed or flocoated.... Too bad. Sounded like a great product....

 

That's what i was afraid of....It's real hard to beat auto clear..except maybe on wood.  But like you i guess we are all looking for the that perfect clear. But i'm afraid someone will have to invent something new, because i think just about everything out there has be tried by someone. I'm sure the Holy Grail is out there somewhere in our future. They better hurry or it won't be in my life time..LOL

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thanks for all the advice guys, well im still trying to find me some auto clear, only thing i found locally was the Finish 1 auto clear that my NAPA auto carries, the other is a company call Sherwin Williams that carrys what i think is to be about the same as the Finish 1 stuff, anybody here have experiences on these finish 1 auto clear?

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I just did a test dip with Duplicolor no mix auto clear. Dip, wait twenty minutes, dip, wait twenty minutes again and one last slower dip and let it hang by the bill all night. Then wet sand with 2000 grit. The guy at Advance Auto paints cars and said that should give a nice finish. Its still hanging and I'll pull it off the drip rack later today.

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I only use auto clears on small plastic baits such as a pop-r because epoxy does not like sharp edges. If you can find it... try Alpha Cryl. It was made by BASF. I was eventually banned by the EPA because it contained lead. But you may be able to find it. All you have to do is just dip. The stuff is excellent. If you use an auto clear make sure that it is a high solids clear. Cheap auto clears (Nason, etc) will peel. The good stuff will run you about $100 for a quart of clear, activator, and hardner.

 

Skeeter

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