EdL Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Mark- Thanks for the explanation. On plastic baits I don't see the problem. On wooden baits like balsa if the coatings get chipped or damaged where water can penetrate then I would check my baits while using them for damage and quite using it until I can get the bait home for a repair job. (Unless it's getting bit and I reach the limit). I checked HD and Lowes web sites and they offer SIMILIAR products. Some are water based and some are solvent based. Once the coating is fully cured I don't know which would perform better. Would likely depend on surface prep, base coat, etc. Here is where application technique, patience and experience will determine how well it would work for the person using the coating. It will be fun experimenting with this product to see if it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Ed, I carry a bottle of clear Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, and some brush-on crazy glue, in a jelly jar in my boat for on-the-water repairs. But, with wooden baits, you run the risk of trapping water in the bait that will cause the topcoat to fail later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdL Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Good idea. Most of my lures are plastic but do have a couple of old wooden topwater ones (carrot tops) from back in the day. I'll check with the wife to see if she has some of that nail polish or get me some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 OK, brief update. My son and I went to the quarry with 2 lipless baits. He fished "normally", I however fished like I had found a lure with a dead or alive bounty. He ended up with 1 tiny nick, right on the nose where it struck rocks. My lipless had a scuff on the side from where I would put the rod tip on the bottom and drag the lure through the gravel beds and some notable chipping on the nose. I snagged mine in the rocks at least 8 times also. I then compared the abused bait I used to the lipless crank that had been coated with Solarez. The QST won hands down, the Solarez bait had a lot more chips and lost an eye. I was pretty happy with the shape of the lure I used. I did everything in my power to abuse it and although it did show some damage I can't imagine much surviving what I put it through, unscathed. I have taken photos and will share tonight. Also I will be checking on the shallow crank and frog that will be 49 hours immersed when I get home. I plan on beating the crap out of them also. At this moment I believe I have found a new topcoat. Tonight will be the final test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Moose, Be careful what you post, or someone will turn you in to PETL....People for the Ethical Treatment of Lures! Hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I've already made the phone call Mark!!..lol...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Moose, Be careful what you post, or someone will turn you in to PETL....People for the Ethical Treatment of Lures! Hahaha LOL... that poor bait.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 LOL... that poor bait.... It's a little late to start worrying about the poor bait now, don't you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 ok, 50+ plus hours definitely softened it up so it chips easily and now I am finding the baits I fished with yesterday are also chipping easier. So now I have to rethink it.... this bums me out! Will have to look at letting them cure 48 hours and then test. oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) From the product data sheet... DRY SCHEDULE: Dry Time: ............................................10 to 30 mins Cure Time: ...........................................24 to 48 hrs Rainproof: ..................................................... 24 hrs well.. looks like 48 hours it shall be... Also, I dipped the lures three times and in rapid succession...maybe I should let them cure fully between coats? would love to hear your input please since I am not up on my chemistry etc,, Edited August 8, 2013 by Mad Moose Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) This morning I checked the crankbait and found that it had recovered a lot of the hardness. The jury is still out. I have to wonder if a 50 hour soak is fair. Will continue to experiment and post. I have also emailed the company about cure times etc. Edited August 8, 2013 by Mad Moose Baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdL Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I would think if you let each coat fully cure between dips then a light sanding or scuffing would be required to promote better bonding. SInce the product is solvent based multiple dips (re-coats) with some dry time between. I only wish I could soak my lures by fishing them for 50 straight hours each. I doing good to get in an 8 hour fishing day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I agree that letting the baits soak for 50 hrs is a bit extreme but it did teach us that prolonged exposure will soften it....Some guys leave their baits laying on the wet deck of a boat....It's good to know it might effect the top coat...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I'm guessing you do need to let it cure out, to reach it's full hardness. Lacquer-based concrete coatings should be totally waterproof once they're cured, since their solvent is a lacquer thinner, not water. The lacquer in the coatings makes the second coat "burn into" the first coat, so, as long as you haven't gotten anything on the lure after the first coat, it will bond just fine. That's one of the beauties of lacquer paints and finishes. I've used lacquer-based sealers on both concrete and brick, and they do need to cure out before recoating, but only for an hour or two, depending on the manuf. We wait at least 24 hours before foot traffic or car traffic, again depending on the coating. Since I've used it on driveways and walkways, to prevent oil and grease penetration, most of the stuff I've used is a penetrating matte sealer, so once it's applied it soaks in, and fills the pores in the brick or concrete to prevent water penetration. The second coat forms more of a top layer that makes washing off crap easier. I'm pretty sure you're using some kind of a glossier finish, like what's used for stamped concrete, so the surface needs to really cure hard. You probably need to let it cure at least 24 hours to harden, and 48 would be better, once you've finished your dipping, to reach it's full hardness. There's probably some chemical linking and solvent off-gassing still going on, after it feels dry to the touch, that increases it's hardness. That's what they mean by curing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Mark, thanks a ton for that info. I am going to try and do a dip every 48 hours to allow for curing.I really do love the way this looks on a crank. If I have to allow more curing time, so be it. The ease of use comes from the dipping, not a fast turnaround. And yes, this is a high gloss finish. They do make a matte or satin sealer...wondering that would be a good base coat and then glossy on top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Moose , If I understand what Mark was saying you can recoat after a hour ..or so but when your done coating wait for the full cure time before using....is that right Mark?....Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Depending on what time interval the manuf. recommends for recoating, that's what I'd do. The dips actually burn into each other, so whatever solvent remains in the first dip/second dip will pass through the last dip, and off gas over the final curing time. Do a test on some scrap to see if it works before you coat a bait that you really want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougarftd Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Tried some this morning...sure hope it works. Simple ...no crinkle or lifting...thin coats...a gallon will last a lifetime! Curing now...probably use them next weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Tried some this morning...sure hope it works. Simple ...no crinkle or lifting...thin coats...a gallon will last a lifetime! Curing now...probably use them next weekend Was that the GST from Menards or one of the equivalent products from Lowes or Home Depot? bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougarftd Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Menards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Just curious about the glossiness. How would you compare it among these (IMO) 1 (glossiest)- epoxy 2 - Dick Nites 3 - (least glossy)- Solarez Cougarftd- did you dip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougarftd Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Dick Nites...yes I dipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougarftd Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Here is the finish...this was dipped 4 times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I don't see anything wrong with the finish . Ya might just have something there . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougarftd Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 If it holds up against fishing wear and tear it will be great. This is the easiest clear I have used. A gallon should last a life time. Does not add a lot of weight so it will not affect the lure performance. I had no problem with it crinkling or lifting the paint. Hopeful it will be durable. I would think as a concrete sealer it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
