Color Changed (Milky) 1-2 Months After Pouring

[SlowFISH]

Hey all,

 

  I just wanted to ask if anyone ever had a color change - or technically a translucent turn opaque - well after it was shot and poured. Like 2 months later?

 

  I made a bunch of two tone creature baits (hand injection - hand pour one color, close mold and shoot).  Blue/Black, Green Pumpkin/Amber, Amber/Chartreuse, etc.  Poured prefect.  I chilled for 1 day after pouring in the freezer and then placed them in either plastic containers for storage (sistema boxes I purchased at container store) or were put directly in my plano boxes for use.  No oils/scents added after pouring.  I did add heat stabilizer and anise scent during pour.... all virgin material - no re-heats with a quality Plastisol.

 

  After a good month (close to two) I noticed when changing baits on a trip that on my Green Pumpkin/Ambers - the amber changed from what was a translucent amber to a milky amber, so much so you couldn't see the glitter in it unless it was on the surface... basically went opaque.  It was hot, sunny and humid and I did leave the box on my boat seat.  I looked at some others and noticed that my translucent blues also went opaque on my blue/blacks.  Weird thing is - it didn't happen to all of the baits.

 

  I got home and noticed a few in storage (in the plastic boxes) kept in my basement (no sunlight, but damp/humid at times) did the same thing.

 

  Obviously it can be a pouring thing that maybe I didn't notice - pot got too hot at one point or I added too much stabilizer/scent at some point that is now coming back to bite me - but to have it happen on two different colors that weren't shot at the same time bothers me.  Figured i'd ask if anyone has had a similar situation.  I just pour for myself - so not  a big deal, but the baits looked real hot - and now just don't have that same look/feel to them.

 

  (I purposely didn't mention the plastisol brand.... it's one used by some forum members and is of high quality and I did shake it prior to use... didn't want to start a war on plastics, but of course that could be a culprit..... although I'm thinking it's more my issue as not every bait went south.)

 

  Thanks..

 

    J.

 

[mark poulson]

Maybe it's the time in the freezer. 

Try just letting them cool on the workbench instead.

[CNC Molds N Stuff]

My first thought was maybe the plastic didn't fully kick. 

[Frank]

Yes it has happened to me. Just think the plastic is not right. Mixed another batch with a different plastic and my colors were back and still are according to my leftovers. It happens just change plastic. Frank

[SlowFISH]

Not sure.... I only poured one color combo per session as usually fill the presto with one base color (say green pumpkin) and then pour any mold I have in that color combo... so if it was the freezer, I'd expect all the baits I made that day to do the same.  This is happening on baits poured on different days and any freezer time was likely different as well.

 

Frank... it's possible your right... it was my first try with a new plastic... so who knows... could be it.

 

    J.

[MonteSS]

I say humidity. Keep them in sealed bags.

 

...Bill

[carolinamike]

I noticed you didn't say whether or not you used salt.  If you did use salt, then that's the culprit.  If you didn't use salt, it could be the effect from color bleed.  Salt will make your baits draw moisture, and even non bleed colors when sometimes put together, could have some type of reaction to each other. And Frank may be right, it could just be a plastisol problem.  Make sure you're mixing your plastisol thoroughly. 

[SlowFISH]

No salt.. I like floating baits!!!!

 

I've had a few PM's... and where I'm thinking based on feedback is it's likely Plastisol / cook related...  in that I might have "undercooked" on the first couple baits I made.  The colors that are changing are ones I poured by hand from my microwave into the mold.  I use a digital thermo... but usually try to pour the accents in the 330-340 max range to avoid scorching and meting the glitter over time.... My thought here is maybe I didn't cook the first couple pours enough but over repeated hits in nuker to keep temps up finally kicked it over enough... that could explain the reason some are good and others aren't.  Next pour I'll try to hit 350-360 and see if anything changes.

 

Humidity was my other thought.... but the boxes I use to store have a gasket... granted they probably still breath a bit - not sure if humidity can get in/out that easily.

 

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

                  J.

[BigLewers]

I had this happen to my baits at one time.  turns out the manufacture of the plastic had a bad batch.  A few people have posted in other forums of the same problem.  You could have made the bait clear as could be and after a awhile it would turn a milky cream color.  I think it was a resin problem.  After using up all that plastic and got a new "box" I have'nt had that problem. 

[carolinamike]

There is an actual chemical test that you can do to know if you are cooking your plastic long enough. Its very simple, get you some acetone, you can find it at a hardware or paint store, pour some acetone into a small glass container, and then drop a piece of the bait into the acetone. If the bait breaks down then you are not cooking your plastic long enough.

[JSC]

Thanx for the tip Mike ... 1st time I have heard of that one.  Only used Acetone (way in the past ) mixed with coloring to "Fire Tail" Lures    .. that I got from Tom Mann .. the way he did it before injection was set up for 2 color shots on his Sting Ray Grubs.

[SlowFISH]

There is an actual chemical test that you can do to know if you are cooking your plastic long enough. Its very simple, get you some acetone, you can find it at a hardware or paint store, pour some acetone into a small glass container, and then drop a piece of the bait into the acetone. If the bait breaks down then you are not cooking your plastic long enough.

Thanks for the tip... I'll check a few of the bait that turned on my this weekend and see if that's the case.

 

    J.

[bluetickhound]

There is an actual chemical test that you can do to know if you are cooking your plastic long enough. Its very simple, get you some acetone, you can find it at a hardware or paint store, pour some acetone into a small glass container, and then drop a piece of the bait into the acetone. If the bait breaks down then you are not cooking your plastic long enough.

X2 on the thanks! I had wondered if there was any sort of way to know if I was cooking my plastic correctly other than "if it scorches, you cooked it too long!"....

[rixon529]

There is an actual chemical test that you can do to know if you are cooking your plastic long enough. Its very simple, get you some acetone, you can find it at a hardware or paint store, pour some acetone into a small glass container, and then drop a piece of the bait into the acetone. If the bait breaks down then you are not cooking your plastic long enough.

"If the bait breaks down..."  Over what period of time are we talking about, Mike?

Would the bait break down as in immediately/after 10 minutes/after 24 hours?

 

 

Rick

SE CT

Edited August 12, 2013 by rixon529

[carolinamike]

Rick, it should break down pretty fast if the plastic isnt heated enough. I really cant give you a time but after about 5 minutes you should be able to pick up the bait and squeeze it with your fingers and have a noticable difference. If any material looks like its melting then this would be a sign of inaddequete cook time.

[SlowFISH]

Rick, it should break down pretty fast if the plastic isnt heated enough. I really cant give you a time but after about 5 minutes you should be able to pick up the bait and squeeze it with your fingers and have a noticable difference. If any material looks like its melting then this would be a sign of inaddequete cook time.

 

Tested a few baits tonight... the ones in question (turned milky) would "crumble/fall apart" when squeezed / twisted.  I left them in straight acetone for 15 minutes... this may have been too long, but even still there was a difference between the feel of a "milky" bait and one I assume to be fully kicked.

 

       J.

[SlowFISH]

Quick question guys... 

 

Presumably based on the feedback I've received and testing a few of my baits in acetone - I need to cook my plastic a little hotter to 350 for it to "kick" and not turn milky over time.  

 

So, my question is.... do I need to KEEP it at 350 the whole time, or can I cook the plastic till the temps are up to 350 - stay there for a few minutes - then back off to 330-340 to avoid scorching and still have a "kicked" plastisol?

 

I know on some of my baits that turned, I was cooking to the 330 range as it was providing a good pour/injection for me and I didn't scorch.... so just curious if I can kick this stuff over and then backoff so I get the best of both worlds.

 

       J.

[carolinamike]

No you do not have to leave it at 350. Once the plastic is formed well then you can turn the temperature down without any problems and I strongly suggest that you do so. Remember cooler is better and just hot enough to fill the cavity is ideal.

[SlowFISH]

Thanks Mike.... appreciate the feedback on this thread from you and all the guys.

 

     J.