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littleriver

Another Epoxy Topcoat

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Hello ,

 

I have been using this product for a couple years now. Feel safe in recommending it to others.  it was recommend to me by another local builder.  I have to say, as epoxies go, it is pretty good.  The learning curve for epoxies like etex is a bit long but I believe is worth the effort if you like this type of topcoat. I use the product for bill and hook hanger installation too. This product is not for those in a hurry but if your patient, the results are great. A lure turner is a must but the cleanup is easy with alcohol. Here is a link to the product.

 

http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html

 

I bought the 2 quarts and after two years of using this product exclusively ( besides  the occasional exception of trying something new) on over a couple hundred baits, I still have over half of it left. 

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Sharing a picture of a test I conducted some time ago comparing devcon2ton to this epoxy. I wanted to see if one darkened faster than another when exposed to the sun. Here is the photo

 

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In all fairness there can be a noticeable difference in color of devcon depending on it's  freshness. However after using both products, I believe this tabletops best attribute is durability and cost but requires a turner and time consuming . Devcon is simple, fast and readily available but expensive and not as durable. 

 

 

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Skeeter

 

I apply with with a really cheap small artist brushes. Just like the ones found in these sets at dollar tree. A tip handed to me via Gene. Thank you!

 

http://www.dollartree.com/household/arts-and-crafts/painting/Crafter-rsquo-s-Square-6-Color-Paint-Pallets/500c565c866p336948/index.pro?method=search

 

I reuse the brush over and over. Clean with alcohol and store in a mason jar with an inch of alcohol covering bristles. Much like a comb in barber shops used to be stored. Ready to go for the next customer.

 

One coat will do . Just have to be sure bait is completely covered well. A good light is a must and in my case reading glasses help. It is thicker than devcon but keeping it warm goes a long way. 70F . Should you want it thinner , isopropyl alcohol 91 percent does a good job. Use same for cleaning and may be found at walmart. There is ample working time with this product , unlike devcon, so best to go slow and don't rush. I let it sit a couple minutes after mixing to let bubble surface then just pop them with  breath. A good blow on the bait as well after coating helps with any missed air bubbles. 

 

All my most recent baits in gallery are one coat. 

 

It is more durable than devcon . Where devcon can and will crack, this product is hard but flexible at the same time. It does get harder in heat. A heated enviroment will make curing go faster. Without heat expect 5hr on wheel and 10 hr to touch min. Heat will greatly shorten this time. This is a thick product and that can be a drawback on some baits if your not wanting to add to bait weight. But I would say this makes an excellent topcoat for most situations. 

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Good question

 

I keep mine in the basement too. Summertime is no problem but in winter it is a problem. To overcome the problem,  I work in a small room in the basement. When I know I will be top coating, I turn on a small heater to heat the room. I also keep the bulk of the product upstairs in the temperature controlled part of the house during this time of year. This makes refilling my mixing syringe easier and the product is always ready to use. The syringe i use to mix the tabletop is an old devcon 2ton syringe. I simply cleaned out the unused devcon and refilled it with the tabletop. Perfect mix every time no matter how big or small. Perfect for my small projects. It can get a bit messy refilling but not too hard and much easier and less expensive than a trip to the store to buy more devcon. The hardest part is open the syringe when it is empty. I use a flatjhead scewdriver to start the process. Once it is fully extended again a twisting pull is required to remove the plunger. The product cures best in a warm enviroment so if it is cold a heat is a must in one form or another.

 

I know more than you asked for but thought it might be of interest to know more of the process I use. 

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I know nothing about the top coat Vic mentions here, but do know that some epoxies claim they MUST be cured above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Bob Smith is one of these. It wouldn't hurt to read the application guides posted on any particular product your using.

 

good luck,

Ben

 

Ben is right on the money on this one.

 

About half way down on the link provided is a big red warning on cold weather usage with this product. It pays to read the directions............ :yay:

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"Cool" and "cold" might not mean the same thing to everyone. What is "cold" to someone might leave another person uncomfortably warm. That's why manufacturers use specific temps. in their application guides. If their guide says their epoxy needs to be cured at 70 degrees or above will it cure in 60 degree temps? Probably. Will it cure to it's maximum potential? Probably not. Then we get into a " what's good enough" type deal. If a "cool" basement is your only alternative then you might try a small space heater positioned in such a way as to bring the area where your epoxy is curing up to more optimum temps.

 

Ben

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