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Tallbald

Brush Painting With Water Based Acrylic. Gesso Base Coat?

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I've been studying old posts and see "gesso" mentioned as a base coat on wood lures when using acrylic paints. All the paints I am/will be using are water based acrylics (Folk Art brand from Walmart so far)  for safety and simplicity. I have never used gesso, and really never knew what it is until reading here. Will the gesso seal lure woods for me so that waterlogging is prevented? I had at first thought of dipping in a solvent based sanding sealer, but if a safer alternative like this gesso will work, I'd be very happy. Solvents affect my lungs easily, and water based brush paints would be my choice if they would work.

Also, when using water based acrylic paints, is there a certain brand or style of two part epoxy top coat that must be used? I've read here about the problems with mixing different brands of paints due to chemical reaction between the mixed brands, and wonder if epoxy topcoats are at risk for these troubles too. 

Thanks so much. Don

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Don,

 

Try these steps see how they work for you. 

 

Step1.  Seal up your bait with Super Glue

Step2.  Sand your bait with 300 to 400 grit sand paper. depends on the wood grain. 

Step3.  Seal it again with super glue.  The first sanding raises the grain and the 2nd coat of AC GLUE smooths it out again

             Really seals it up nice.  And It Hardens the outside of the wood. 

Step4. You can put a extra coat of epoxy on the lure at this time too if you like

Step5.  Scuff the with 400 grit paper and apply 1 coat of your white or black water base paint

Step6.  Paint your bait

Step7.  Clear coat your bait.  With what ever clear you want to try.  Bob Smith 20 min Epoxy would be simply for you to use or Dick Nites if you heat set your paint really good on the wood. 

 

See how that works for you.  I dont know much about Gesso but what I just told you should work with just about any wood you try and use to make a bait. 

 

Tater 

Edited by Tater Hog

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Gesso will not waterproof the lure.  Many don't waterproof the lure and just depend on the final clear coat.  The most readily available clear coats in your area would be Devcon 30 minute (Ace Hardware always has it) and then Envirotex Light (Ace again, Hobby Lobby, or Michaels).

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...Also, when using water based acrylic paints, is there a certain brand or style of two part epoxy top coat that must be used? I've read here about the problems with mixing different brands of paints due to chemical reaction between the mixed brands, and wonder if epoxy topcoats are at risk for these troubles too. 

Thanks so much. Don

you hear alot of recommendations for epoxy topcoats BECAUSE of concerns about reactions between the paints and topcoat. my understanding is that it is particularly inert to just about all kinds of paints.

as for acrylics, I have been painting with acrylic myself and I have seen no issues with compability. I've been using spart urethane and have seen no reactions between acrylic paint and rethane. Keep in mind, though, my recently painted lures will look terrible if they were to be exposed to sunlight.

it'd be good to have a topcoat than can take some sun and so I intend to try another topcoat, when I get the chance.

personal lifestyle here have made this a low priority of things to figure out. I'm an absolute VAMPIRE for fishing, and its almost always at night. In all other ways the spur urethane seems a great top coat. Its got a softer surface that doesn't easily scratch or chip, but very waterproof, and glossy and beautiful. me.

anyways, though I'm a newby I have relevant experience. I've put devcon 2ton over folk art acrylic paints. No issues with chemical compatability. though, you might find that getting a consistant coating over you lure isn't particularly easy, and thats even with a lure turner.

there's lots of tutorial content on how to apply devcon. If thats you path, good luck.

In the future I intend to drop some cash for walmart's version of concrete sealer.

Edited by joliepa

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I've used Gesso and it's kind of thick and you might have to apply a couple coats. Maybe plain ol' white spray on primer after the woods sealed. That's what I'd try

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Hey tallbald, your question on the gesso. I don't think it would be good as a sealer. I'm an artist and us gesso sometimes for covering canvases. I believe that it's just a thinned acrylic paint with none of the sealing properties as epoxy or super glues you need for lures. I personally use envirotex- lite to seal the wood but there are several epoxies that work as well as super glue.

Good luck ! John

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@ tallbald 

 

Don 

 

All very good advice.

 

Taters step by step is what I do with the exception of step four. I do not do this step. I do use gesso in step 5 as my base and fishnart is right. Very thick stuff. Leaves a very porous surface. I am applying five or six thin coats to get the surface I want. If you want a smoother surface same thing can be achieved with several coats of white acrylic paint. Basically I am putting enough paint on to cover wood grain and ballast holes so they may not be seen . This takes several coats with sanding in between. This process of covering can be shortened by doing step four but I choose not to due to cost and the way I do my build; it is not convenient. 

 

Brands of water based acrylic do differ in pigment, available colors and thickness. They range from a very watery to a paste. It will depend on you which is easier to work with to achieve the desired outcome. Practical experience will be required because everyone's needs are different. Start cheap and work on some cardboard. 

 

I suggest you stick with an epoxy if your going to use gesso as a base. To achieve a smooth surface in the end product a thick epoxy is required. I like the gesso because of the added depth it gives the lures appearance. But if your not going to be using epoxy then I suggest you do not use it. Stick with straight acrylic. Spray paints may be used but with your lung issue it may not be the best fit. I brush everything myself. 

 

Lastly joliepa is spot on in that epoxy is not exactly easy. So many ways to mess it up. A learning curve there will be. I almost gave up several times but the reward at the end of the tunnel is worth it. So, expect lots of cursing along the way if you choose this path. I would start with some scrap wood first before messing up baits like I did. 

 

Here is the epoxy I have been using and continue to use. It is but one of many . The topcoat you choose should compliment the build and paint. It is but one part of a whole. So how it fits into your bait best will have to be something you yourself discover. Good luck !

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/26819-another-epoxy-topcoat/?hl=%2Banother+%2Bepoxy+%2Btopcoat

Edited by littleriver

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