JunebugsCustoms Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I know there will be some who vehemently disagree with me, but I seldom if ever use a through wire to build balsa bodies. And after building literally thousands of them over the years, I have yet to have one fail when done this way. I shape the body however I want, then drill a 3/16 hole approximately 3/4" deep at the nose and the tail (at the tow point and at the location of the rear hook hanger). I then epoxy a 3/16 diameter piece of poplar dowel into the body and let it cure. Once cured, clip it flush. Drill a pilot hole for your eyebolt. For those who say this can't be strong enough- I tested this hundreds of times.... it securely supports as much as 18lbs both from a dead lift and from a jerked lift. In all my testing, I've only ever had 2 fails- in one, the wire securing the test weight snapped, and in the other, there was an odd vein in the wood which caused the balsa to break. Besides being extremely strong, this method is very fast and far less tedious (imho) than setting up through wires, and the end product is fantastic. The doweling has no ill effects on action. I've sold my baits all over the country and never had one come back for warranty repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I have some questions: Do you have more than one set of hooks, i.e., tail hook, and belly hook? If you have a belly hook, how is the ballast inserted or is that a belly weight with a hook hanger? Thanks in advance! Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 the belly hook setup is slightly different. I pour my own ballast weights, using a stick type weight similar to that used on an inline spinner. they are about 1.25" long. I drill a hole for the weight, and once I find the right weight for the plug, I clip it to the right length. I then use stainless steel wire and bend it to a U shape with a radius about the size of the eye in an eyebolt. The tag ends of the U shape need to be long enough to touch the bottom of the hole and have the loop protrude enough for your hardware, plue about 1/8 inch. Bend the extra 1/8 inch over to 90 degrees. You sould now have a wire that the "legs" have feet that when inserted in the hole, rest on the bottom leaving the loop outside the bait. Now insert some epoxy in the hole, and push the weight in. The weight, when pushed to the bottom of the hole, locks the wire in place. Fill the cavity with the putty of your choice and sand flush. When I have a chance, Ill take some pics for illustration. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I concur 100% on your method Junebug. I'm currently using the exact same method ( found here on TU by another muskie lure builder SPG) except I use it on cedar with 3/8'' oak, maple or birch dowels. The reason I don't use balsa is that it's too soft for muskies. But you know, I may just try it just for kicks on my glide baits and see how many muskies it's going to take to actually have one destroyed. I bet just a couple! Good post! s56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yea, seeking, I generally use poplar or white cedar for the muskie lures, when I hafta make them....a decent sized muskie will bite clean through a balsa bait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 I'm just curious, if you sealed the balsa with superglue would it gain enough toughness to stand up to a Muskie? Also, if you put a dowel through the balsa bait length wise, couldn't you in theory seat your belly hook hanger into the dowel as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 as far as toughness, I don't know but I tend to doubt it. With regard to the dowel, if you threaded through it, it would in effect go through the narrowest point and not be strong enough. Harder woods like cedar and poplar are better suited for toothy fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy G Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I'm just curious, if you sealed the balsa with superglue would it gain enough toughness to stand up to a Muskie? Also, if you put a dowel through the balsa bait length wise, couldn't you in theory seat your belly hook hanger into the dowel as well? I have put a dowel all the way through a balsa prop bait and then anchored the belly hook hanger in the dowel along with the tail hook hanger and line tie, but this was a bass lure. I wouldn't even attempt a muskie or pike lure (which aren't in my neck of the woods) made with balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessmuk Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Interesting thread! Essentially, Junebugs is spreading the stress from the screw eye over a larger surface area of the balsa rather than just at the screw eye. Seems like a good way to go for some lures. One thing to keep in mind is that balsa comes in various grades or degrees of hardness. I'm new to lure making and this forum so appreciate learning from threads like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 What my method is providing id a tighter grained insert to screw the eyebolt into. Balsa is so loosely grained and has such soft end grain that it has difficulty holding the threads of the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I just picked up some balsa at Hobby Lobby and had no idea it was that light. Since I run into Northerns all the time when bass fishing up in MN, I won't use Balsa. It just doesn't make sense. If I want to blow money and waste time, I'll go to the bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I just picked up some balsa at Hobby Lobby and had no idea it was that light. Since I run into Northerns all the time when bass fishing up in MN, I won't use Balsa. It just doesn't make sense. If I want to blow money and waste time, I'll go to the bar. Hobby Lobby carries what I think they call "competition balsa". It's the stuff folks build airplanes out of. There are several different grades of balsa. Unfortunately when you start specifying one of the denser, and stronger, grades of balsa they charge you extra because it has to be hand picked. I have my doubts that even one of the stronger grades of balsa would hold up to the toothy critters up north. Balsa baits are hard to beat for shallow cranks targeting largemouth though. It deflects off of cover really well and a lot of times that will trigger a bass to bite. If you fish a balsa bait a lot you can count on it showing signs of wear and tear. They're not a bait that you can fish every day and expect to have around for 10 years. They're hard to beat for shallow square bills though. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I disagree somewhat there Rayburnguy... Rapala has used balsa for years for their SR5 type baits, and I have some that are antiques.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 All I meant Junebugs was that balsa wasn't going to stand up as well to abuse as some of the other materials used to make cranks. I've got some baits that are considered antiques and still look good, but they weren't bounced off of rocks, stumps, etc. all the time either. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 I too have never ever used through wire .. except on balsa minnow baits... but I have made way more cedar minnow baits than balsa.. Ive caught bass to 9lbs , stripers to 30lb and every thing in between .. never once broke a bait from a fish .. have stepped on a few and they didn't survive.. but never a fish. Now I'm shaping some pvc minnow baits to try out .. making some big striper baits to try as soon as the weather gets back to more normal range for south east tn .. what we have had last couple days sure ain't normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 I just picked up some balsa at Hobby Lobby and had no idea it was that light. Since I run into Northerns all the time when bass fishing up in MN, I won't use Balsa. It just doesn't make sense. If I want to blow money and waste time, I'll go to the bar. Biggest problem with Balsa at hobby / craft stores.. is the inconsistency .. and usually the very cheapest softest stuff there is .. hard dense balsa grain running from end to end.. craft stores just don't carry that quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 try looking at nationalbalsa.com they offer balsa in a whole buncha dimensions, and at a decent price. They also do bulk pricing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) I too have never ever used through wire .. except on balsa minnow baits... but I have made way more cedar minnow baits than balsa.. Ive caught bass to 9lbs , stripers to 30lb and every thing in between .. never once broke a bait from a fish .. have stepped on a few and they didn't survive.. but never a fish. Now I'm shaping some pvc minnow baits to try out .. making some big striper baits to try as soon as the weather gets back to more normal range for south east tn .. what we have had last couple days sure ain't normal. At the risk of hijacking this thread I have a question maybe you can answer. Do you think if I just made an eye out of wire and used upholstery thread to close the hoop etc and inserted into a poplar bait (with epoxy) it would hold or do I need to use a threaded screw eye? Granted I would insert about 3/4 to 1 inch of "tag end" into the drilled hole in the bait. I'm fishing for LMBs up north and do run into an occasional Northern. Edited January 8, 2014 by FrogAddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Froggy, rather than just using a loop of wire for a hanger, you can twist the wire into a homemade screw eye that is similar to but holds even better than a store-bought screw eye. For balsa baits, I use hand twisted screw eyes that are at least 1" long, split the bait, scratch in troughs for the screw eyes, lay them in, and rejoin the bait with 5 min epoxy. It avoids having to bend a complicated one-piece wire frame for the bait and I've never had one fail. There are lots of ways to build baits so they last well. Pick one or invent your own. I love balsa baits because they have such lively action but you can only do so much to strengthen balsa and enhance the durability of hardware before it begins to add weight and reduce the bait's action. It it ends up fishing like a standard plastic bait, you've missed the mark. And every operation you add to the build process introduces a new opportunity to screw up if you hand build baits - so you have to choose what is "enough". I want my baits to last for several years of hard bass fishing (in other words, better than 90% of the balsa baits you can buy from a manufacturer) but I don't expect them to be eternal. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 What BobP said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 try looking at nationalbalsa.com they offer balsa in a whole buncha dimensions, and at a decent price. They also do bulk pricing. thats were I get mine.. great woods and service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Froggy, rather than just using a loop of wire for a hanger, you can twist the wire into a homemade screw eye that is similar to but holds even better than a store-bought screw eye. For balsa baits, I use hand twisted screw eyes that are at least 1" long, split the bait, scratch in troughs for the screw eyes, lay them in, and rejoin the bait with 5 min epoxy. It avoids having to bend a complicated one-piece wire frame for the bait and I've never had one fail. There are lots of ways to build baits so they last well. Pick one or invent your own. I love balsa baits because they have such lively action but you can only do so much to strengthen balsa and enhance the durability of hardware before it begins to add weight and reduce the bait's action. It it ends up fishing like a standard plastic bait, you've missed the mark. And every operation you add to the build process introduces a new opportunity to screw up if you hand build baits - so you have to choose what is "enough". I want my baits to last for several years of hard bass fishing (in other words, better than 90% of the balsa baits you can buy from a manufacturer) but I don't expect them to be eternal. JMHO BobP, I really appreciate the advise. I twisted up some homemade screw eyes last night and installed them. Worked like a charm and the best part is you can make them as long or short as you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Yeah, I'm certainly not knocking JunebugCustom's using a dowel to reinforce the hardware 'cause I'm sure it works excellently well. I'm just relating the way I do it with the tools and materials I have available. To me, using epoxy to rejoin the halves of the bait is a critical part of the process because it anchors the hardware into an epoxy backbone that runs from the nose to the tail of the bait. I fit the hook hangers and the ballast into the bait so the halves fit back together neatly without pressure. Apply epoxy to both halves, fit them together, wipe off any squeeze-out (don't forget the lip slot!) and lay the bait aside for a few minutes to let the 5 min epoxy cure. I use hand-twisted hardware in all my baits, both balsa and hardwood. Whatever way you decide to do it, standardizing your build process helps to produce a quality bait since you aren't having to switch methods and develop new knacks for doing things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Ben's right about standardizing your processes, because repetition will develop speed and accuracy. I build thru-wire balsa crankbaits that are very tough and still retain balsa-buoyancy. I seal balsa with epoxy, paint with Createx on the prepped epoxy, and then clearcoat with Dicknites, multiple coats. This is not the only way to build a tough balsa bait, but it is the way I like to build them. BTW, I epoxy my ballast in too. I know none of you guys are guilty of this, but I've see a lot of anglers slap their lures on the water to remove bits of debris from their hooks before the next cast, and I've seen the ballast removed from some of their prized balsa lures in the same motion. Most of the abuse bass lures endure is done above the water against objects we didn't intend for them to encounter, or at phenomenal speeds lures will develop with todays high modulus lure-launchers. Balsa, used as a core material in a resin sandwich is combines strength and light weight, proved in many thousands of boat hull stringer systems over many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunebugsCustoms Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) I certainly didn't intend my OP to sound like it is the be-all end-all for balsa bait construction. I merely posted it as a means to share some of my experiences and to provide an alternative for those of us like me who find through wire processes tedious. I have made countless balsa baits over the years, using just about any means of hardwaring you could imagine. Some worked great, some were abysmal failures. I settled on the system I use because its quicker (for me), more consistent (for me), its incredibly strong, and has little to no effect on buoyancy and action. This is just the system I prefer, and offer it up as a means to lend an opportunity to gain from my many mistakes and years of testing. Edited January 11, 2014 by JunebugsCustoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
