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Buckhorn79

Best Way To Remove Paint

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2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

There are 3 basic pre-Rapala plastics: clear, white and bone. The white plastic is probably the most difficult to clean (it seems to be a bit more porous and paint just doesn't like to let go). A white base coat is not even necessary on the bones when you want to do natural craw patterns - save a step. One thing I failed to mention in the last post about clear bodies and acetone flashing - it is a must if you want good looking phantoms. Not all will be crystal clear though, as the cavity may have slag that has roughed up the inside, or it's a Mag or suspending model that has loose rattles in the cavity that that rash up the inside.

I have used the solvent and wipe method on pre-Rapalas as well. I prefer to use denatured alcohol in an old spray bottle. Put 5 or six in an old stainless mixing bowl and spray liberally. Wait a few minutes and wipe or use an old toothbrush. Gloves are recommended, as fingerprints can be left behind. The denatured alcohol seems to cut the paint, but not soften the plastic as quickly as other solvents.

 

I am going to post a picture here to show the 3 types - I hope this is not against the rules. It seems applicable to the post, and not suitable for the gallery.

 

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

2014-02-11 16.13.03.jpg

post-14452-0-84287500-1392157961_thumb.jpg

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I believe Rapala changed the mold in the mid-late 90's. They wen to the 2 piece (body & bill) for a short period, and then tried to get back to more of the original 2 piece mold (side to side) which you get on the shelf today. I really don't know any more specific details.Someone else might know more facts.

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