Jump to content
BobP

Ok, About Those Concrete Sealers...

Recommended Posts

Hmm, not sure what to tell you Inrll. Usually this issue comes up when someone doesn't allow for enough time between dips but that doesn't seem to be the case with you. How is the humidity where you are dipping the baits? Maybe Barr Mad Moose or Cougar or someone else has a better answer. It may just be a bad batch??

Edited by FrogAddict
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That makes sense Mark. It was pretty cold in the garage (mid thirties) when I dipped them. They've been inside for probably 12 or 13 days after hanging in the garage for a couple days so it sounds like I just need to give it more time inside.

 

Barr5150, it is over createx.

Edited by Inrll
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know how strong GST is, but Eagle Supreme is pretty intense... at least if you are dipping 20+ lures.  The smell is strong enough that I get buzzed after I take my mask off, just from the fumes on my clothes.  Of course, I probably am not following the proper PPE for my skin and eyes exposure either.  I'm doing this with a box fan running and the garage door cracked.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought i would pipe in on this one to maybe help clarify some questions about concrete sealer. I am currently a QC technician for a concrete manufacturing company and have been in the concrete business for over 20 years. Sealers can be kinda a tricky at times especially when dealing with various conditions. temperature is definetly a KEY factor in how they will react with any kind of surface they are being applied to, which is why they are mostly only used during the warmer months of the year. High humidity will create a much more lengthy time of cure as i am sure you are finding this out dealing with the weather we are having this year. My biggest concern tho would be the amount of EXPOSURE anyone has when using this stuff. It is HIGHLY( NOT HIGGGGHHHH) dangerous if inhaled or exposed to for any kind of lengthy time without any type of protection. Not to pick on A-mac but using a box fan and a cracked door in the garage sends shiver up my spine. I guess in short all i am saying is please use as much caution and protection that you can when using this stuff cause this is the kinda stuff that can come back to haunt ya down the road.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sieglefish,

 

I appreciate the heads up. I only dip one or two lures at a time and I limit my exposure to the fumes for sure. The first time I used GST I spent way to much time over an open jar dipping 12 lures and was light headed and dizzy. Never again! Now I open the jar, dip a lure or two, close jar and evacuate the area. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sieglefish,

Thanks for the expert advice.  

I think that too often we all think that we're safe, when, in fact, stuff is being absorbed into our skin, our eyes, even our mouths.

Once we build up a tolerance to the smell, we think we're good to go.  But it's like an alcoholic who can hold his liquor.  It's still messing him up, he just doesn't notice it anymore, until it's too late.

The painting industry is between a rock and a hard place.

In the never ending quest to make stuff less harmful to the ozone layer and the environment, they have wound up with some pretty toxic-to-people stuff out there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sieglefish, I'm currently using an organic cartridge mask like what you can get from home depot for 30 bucks. I can't smell anything when using it, and replace the cartridges as soon as I start to smell anything. Im battling the temp issue by heating the garage with a forced air heater, then dipping with the door cracked a few inches and the fan blowing. Do you have better recommendations on PPE gear? Should I avoid doing as many lures? I would leave the door half open, but I'm afraid the lures would cure too slow and maybe wrinkle the paint. Humidity isnt an issue here. I normally clear coat 2-3 days every 2 weeks. It takes about 15 minutes to dip 20 lures and clean up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i"m definetly glad to hear yu guys are taking alot of precautions with that stuff which is good to know. As for A-Mac that type of mask should definetley help the cause being you didnt opt out for one of those 1.99 masks off the shelf at walmart. Moderation is the key if using in a confined area.I  am not trying to scare anybody into not using it but just want to make sure we all get to go to bed safe and sound every night. Hope this helps out and may all your lures turn out nice and SHINEY!!!!!!!!!!(lol)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Guy's

I am going to try this stuff out myself, I take it you can let the stuff drip back into the can  ?

 

I see some guys are having trouble with heat and ventilation.

I do have a couple suggestions.

I made 2 boxes up and one box is sealed and holds a furnace fan in it with 3 6" hoses coming off of it, one hose is the exhaust that you can just stick out a window and the other 2 hoses connects to your work box and then inside your work box you can install a radiant heat panel on the ceiling of the box to heat the box, but it needs to be controlled by a thermostat, I do sell the radiant heat panels and thermostats but I offer a better thermostat then what you would need for this type of box and you can get a cheaper version on line for less money and it would work for what you need.

You would want to make doors on the work box so you can close it to hold the heat.

 

Depending on the size of the box you made and the winter temps will depend on what size panel you need, most would need a 80 watt panel and it is $65 shipped, at a discount for you guy's. just contact me if you want one if you order it off my website it will cost you more, here is the link on my website for it. http://pvccages.com/?wpsc-product=radiant-heat-panel-for-snake-cages-reptile-cages

The 80 watt panel is about 12x24 and will heat a box to 150deg if not controlled., if you have a smaller box then you would want a 40 watt for same price and it is about 12x12 in size and will still heat up to 150 deg in a smaller box.

I build reptile cages also so I just use one of those as my box and it has sliding glass doors for my doors and I can see in the box at any time without having to open the doors.

 

You can get a cheap thermostats for about $35-$40 depending on shipping cost on line, the ones I offer are over $100 and are digital, the cheapy ones are just a on/off dial version with a adjustable temp range. here is the link for the cheap thermostat  http://beanfarm.com/product_info.php?cPath=1238&products_id=5685&osCsid=a61309447c0b438d794a41aaac08a833

Edited by Predator Bass Baits
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly I'm not too sure what the humidity was like. I think that at the time it was still in the teens during the day though so I would guess it was fairly low humidity. Just guessing really.

It will eventually cure...I had issues in the summertime when it got humid. I was using a dehumidifier in my basement. When I learned about the health hazards of this stuff I will only do it in the garage now. Cool/cold temps high humidity extended some of my full cure times to about a month

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spurk, That also bothers me.  I find it irritating to open a storage box and have a stink waft out.  I first noticed it it when I tried using spray-on auto primers, so I dropped that immediately.  Unfortunately, it didn't help much to over-coat baits with epoxy.  When the storage box gets warm, the smell seems to escape anyway.  I don't know if it affects the attracting quality of a crankbait when you're fishing it but it seems like something to avoid if possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spurk, 

 

I've found that if I let them cure for about 2-3 weeks, the smell is gone. Just don't put them in the tackle box before that. I did notice that I had a soft plastic worm touching one of my lures and it sort of melted into the lure a bit. This must be a chemical reaction so if you have a lure with a soft plastic trailer etc. don't store them so they touch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys - Im a year late tagging along with the topic but have been toying with the idea of testing a concrete sealer for clear coating lures and also for sealing/clear coating saltwater plugs. Has anyone tried the water based acrylic emulsion by Eagle? Its only $20 at Lowe's and has good reviews from home owners that sealed their concrete with it.

 

Much safer and more tolerable fumes. Acrylic can be a super tough coating if the product is good quality. Has anyone tried this one yet? Eagle has a bunch of versions like the other concrete sealer makers so be careful selecting - we dont want the silane/siloxane versions - those are kind of oil based penetrating systems that do not really leave a top coat. Im curious about the acrylic water based Eagle concrete sealer.

 

At that price I'll try it and no loss if it doesnt work. In the meantime if anyone here has already tried it I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top