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Darkman

Airbrushing Jigs

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I am curious mostly as I rather use PP but have seen a places that AB there Jigs for example, revenge and Phenix both airbrush, What Paint type do you use, is a primer needed if it is what kind?, how to seal the paint on to the jig. I know what ever it is it would have to be thinned down...BTW I have searched the archives and have not found what I need so if that would be your answer please don't bother (im sorry to be so blunt but I find that answer with out a link to be rude and lazy, might as well not even answer at all) ive Googled and have found incredible very little info on this....I have exhausted what im able to do on finding info so now im here to ask...thank you

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Are you sure when you say airbrush their not talking about powder paint? Powder paint can be sprayed both wet and dry I personally have no experience with either but you can see it being sprayed on tj's tackles site and search "powder water" that is the additive that has been mentioned to spray powder paint wet. Either Badger or Paasche has an airbrush that will do this have a look at Chicago airbrush supply prices are pretty good there.

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I've airbrushed many ,many jigs using  C.I.'s vinyl paint and 2 part expoxy for a finish coat.You'll need to spray a base coat of white 1st-(I made this a grey color for easier finish coating). I made holding jig forms out of closed cell foam and used  form fitting tubing to cover the fiber guards. Each form will hold 8-10 jigs.You'll need a spray booth w/ good exhaust since you're working w/ solvent base paints.

 

Enter powder paint-For 1 color jig applications It simply can't be beat for speed( 1coat) and finished product.I haven't airbrushed a jig head in 20 years and will never go back to that method of painting. I do not see the necessity for multi-colored jig heads. I do not use teflon pins for molding and have developed a system to powder paint w/ the fiber guards molded in place.I do not want my fiber guards on the finished jig touching the hook. Most here on TU use telflon pins for molding and then glue in fiber guards later. They are successful and satisfied w/ their sytem as I am w/ mine. i still use a spray booth w/ exhaust for powder coating and curing.

 

Edited to add: i do swirl my jig heads in acetone proir to painting in an exhaust booth.Paint adhears to a clean jig head very well. i do not epoxy coat any jig heads once i started powder coating since repeated contact w/ rocky substrate w/ eventually wear away any finish.

Edited by smallmouthaholic
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I too used vinyl back in the day and I've used it with an air brush but the headaches I got wan't worth it and I even tried doing it outdoors and it didn't help. I agree with Smallmouthaholic, I make single color jigs for my own use, and I do not sell jigs, what I do is break down the cost of the material and then that way I don't lose money, I make stuff for guys that got product from me when I had my business before I got sick. For those few people that want a multicolor jig or spinnerbait I simply apply the powder with a hobby sandblaster that is normally used to etch glass. It sprays the powder really well and it is great for blending colors but you will not be able to do fine detail but I don't think detail is needed on a lead based lure. Toady they have water based paints made just for airbrushes but you will need a good clear coat because the finish isn't as has hard as a cured powder coat.

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I airbrush alot of my swim jigs.  I powder coat the jig first (usually white).  Then I airbrush and clear coat with D2T.

That's the way I do it sometimes. I powder paint the head first then airbrush it. I don't final bake the head before I paint it. I like doing that because it smooths out the imperfections on the head. I just take a scotch brite pad and rough up the head before I paint it. But here recently I have really been working on doing multi-colored powder paint jobs. The finish is just so much more durable. 

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I do not paint a lot of jigs as I use small jigs and lack the skills to do much with a 1/48 or 1/32 jig head but I do paint a lot of lead baits. First, I use createx paints, all water based  water clean up and not bad smelling.

 

Step 1 is a quick cleaning of the jigs in alcohol

Step 2 Base coat, white, black or gray to  seal and prime the lead as well as provide background color.  A minimum of 2                    coats and usually 3 to be sure you have full coverage and a nice uniform base.

Step 3 Oven dry 175 degrees 15 mins or airdry overnight

Step 4 Start painting with color, Dry with heat gun between coats

Step 5 After all colors are done, I dry in oven again or overnight air dry.  I prefer the oven as it always gets them dry.

Step 6 Glue on eyes with sally hansons hard as nails clear fingernail polish.

Step 7 Coat each head with D2T*** epoxy and place in jig turner for overnight cure.

 

*** I have used a myriad of top coats including Sally Hansons Hard As Nails, Solarez,, envirotex. Dick Nites, D2T and Johnsons acrylic floor polish.  Just depends on the bait and what I think its life will be.

 

Good luck and dont be afraid to try something new. 

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I use S.I. White vinyl paint as a primer soon after pouring, so head doesn't oxidize. Then I use Createx followed by D2T topcoat, usually 2 coats with metalflake in the first coat. (Sometimes the flakes make the coating feel rough. the 2nd coat covers that. Hope this helps, or at least doesn't get you more confused.

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I have airbrushed some jigs. I don't think it makes a big difference but will do it from time to time.

 

I first cure a base coating of powderpaint. Next, I airbrush whatever color scheme using createx paints. Then I reheat the jig in the oven (could use a heat gun if you are careful not to scorch) and swish in clear powder paint. Then I cure the jig again. It's lots of trouble but you can make some really neat stuff. For example.... a brown base and dark brown to black splotches made with a toothbrush or airbrush for a neat craw pattern.

 

The jigs in the thumbnail were done this way. You could do scales or whatever of course but these are lots of irridecent blue, greens, and purple spatters. They also have hologram silver glitter. The eyes on these are stuck on with a drop of D2T. Depending on what eyes you use and how hot you get the oven you can cure the eyes under the clear powder. I have done it that way before with some of the 2D eyes. Haven't tried the clear powder over 3D eyes yet. I had concerns about yellowing/scorching/bubbles but need to try to see.

 

There are lots of possibilities with this method.

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