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Dupli-k8r 1000 [concept machine]


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#21 Vodkaman

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 02:40 AM

I don't see the need to return the cutter to the start position. I simply cut the next body in the revearse direction.

 

There are a lot of electronic component houses that do postal, like Maplin or RS components for example.

 

I never did find a super duper way of securing the blank. I used a brass plate with two brass pointed pins soldered in, soldered onto a 6mm dia brass rod. I tap the rod to engage the pins in the blank and lock the rod with a collar against the rod bearing. Crude, but it did the job. I imagine you are looking for something a bit slicker.

 

DAve



#22 redg8r

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 02:59 AM

You cant climb cut backward if:

  • You tilt or angle the blade whatsoever (non-perpendicular)
  • Your cutting a bait with a steep edge (popper for example)
  • Your drive motor is non-reversible :)

I secured my blanks using countersink bits and/or simple phillips head bits, like a spur drive on a lathe.

Not a problem for soft woods.... might need something more robust for hardwoods.

 

Cant comment on electronics, I avoided them on this project. All I used was a switch, 2 motors (1 cutting 1 drive) and a speed controller for the drive motor.



#23 Vodkaman

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 05:33 AM

Points noted Jerry.

 

In my case I passed all three points.

 

There is a way to make wiper motors reversable, I remember reading. That was my plan, but never got around to it.

 

Dave



#24 ReelAppealLures

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 08:23 PM

Thanks for the replies,

 

Great idea using Phillips head bits! This will save hours of labour making something that is pretty much the same.

 

As for the electronics side of things I'm pretty lucky in this respect, I work in a highly automated sawmill/planer mill; so access to any gizmo is very easy and there is Systems Engineers and Shift Electricians who know how to make any piece of kit do anything. The power supply came from a redundant project where we were using a Co2 laser to apply a # code so it can be tracked throughout the process. The laser would print a 4 digit number on the board at a belt speed of around 400-450mpm.

 

I like the idea of drilling the UHMWPE and offsetting, much like a quick release vice! I was going to try and track down a proper lead screw, what I have found so far is pricey and being a hack this is out of my scope.

 

I really like the extruded aluminium, I nearly secured a whole lot at work from an optimiser built in Europe (they love this aluminium stuff) but one engineer realised what it's worth and stubbed that out! It would be easier to work with however, tapping and drilling holes, cutting... Plus we have all the nuts and bolts that fit in the slots at work. I will try and track some down for the final build.

 

Can't help thinking how many baits I could have just made rather than messing with this... :drool:



#25 ReelAppealLures

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 08:26 PM

Working on a chuck using SketchUp for feeding a long timber blank into instead of separate pieces. Hmmm I need a big bearing! and a bigger work bench...



#26 redg8r

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 08:41 PM

With your electronics background, ever heard of arduino? I considered it given its ease of access, now sold at radio shack.

 

post up the .skp when you can, I'm finally getting the hang of it.



#27 ReelAppealLures

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 12:28 AM

With your electronics background, ever heard of arduino? I considered it given its ease of access, now sold at radio shack.

 

post up the .skp when you can, I'm finally getting the hang of it.

 

I don't have an electronics background, I am lucky to work with people who can tell me what I need and how to do it.

 

Never heard of it, but I just did a Google search. It seems like a simple version of a PLC, the guys at work use a software called  RSLogix5000 by Rockwell Automation, but this pretty serious stuff and pricey.

 

I asked an electrician at work if I needed a PLC but he said I can do everything I want with relays and it will be much simpler for fault finding etc. or replacing components.

 

What ever I do with the electrical side I will post up how I did it.