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tommegna

Hybrid Plastic Finesse Worm

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I am trying to make a worm from different bits and pieces of other worms. I have pieced one together, it was a finesse worm with a round head and a ribbed body with a paddle tail 4.5 " long. I am still a newbie at mold and soft worms. When I made the molds, I had lots of trouble trying to make one. I tried P.O.P.& Alumilite III, along with a Smooth-On product Oomoo-30. The P.O.P. had a flat bottom, and the head was not round. The detail was terrible. I am trying to make a one piece mold. I have checked the mold manufacturers sites and they don't have one. I can't afford an expensive mold. Any help would be deeply appreciated. Thanks in advance, Tom Megna.

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I made the few I have out of Bondo fiberglass resin (Polyester resin) you will need to make sure your original is glued down so it won't float up in the resin because the resin will heat up during the curing process. It has excellent detail and as long as your not pouring 100's of worms in a session you'll be fine. Search youtube for "senko mold" you should get a hit on a guy who shows the process for you to understand the process. I do have a question though, you do know that no matter what you do a 1 piece mold will have one side flat right?

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Late to the party, but I just now noticed this topic section.

To make a two part POP mold that produces a full round bait requires two parts - of course.

1. set oiled lure(s) in the first wet POP bottom layer. I place two popsicle sticks in the POP as guides.

2. grease the surface of the hardened plaster and sticks with vasoline and top off with aluminum foil all around the lure cavity on the POP surface that will be separated. Also grease the top surface of the foil for quicker release.

3. The pour hole is usually either preformed by also putting a large greased straw(s) connecting lure head(s) to the outside or once the two parts set, carve the hole with a knive.

4. The surfaces that join to gether must be coated with a glossy liquid that's used for POP walls in a room and this includes the cavity. Two thin coats may be necessary.

5. Separate the two halves with a thin blade, working around the edges.

5. After coating the cavity with thin oil (mineral) and securing with elastic bands, stand the mold on end, place a socket (from a wrench kit) over each pour hole and pour. The wrench socket extends the pour hole and prevents the air bubble that will always happen as the cooling plastic contracts. This also is a good idea for 2-part aluminum molds.

 

POP molds will never have the perfect detail of aluminum but enough that fish respond anyway. The only way to get fine details (very thin lure parts) to mold is to use an injector used for injection molds.

 

I may have forgotten something so ask questions if problems arise.

Edited by Senkosam

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check out makelure.com great how videos and products available, this is just what you need to see so  much good info step by step, some products available at local stores, all online and they have entire lure kits. Reno

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I have made a few specialty molds out of silicone, but they don't last as long as you'd like. They easily handle worm plastics, but you can generally only get a max of 50 or so pours before you have to recast another mold due to flexing the mold to release product unless you are extremely careful.

If you don't mind a limited production run, this would be the way to go. As far as the flat spot, I have not found a way to prevent this on any hand pours, but they are still extremely popular with the older fishermen, and two color combos are a breeze. You would have to make a wooden template either carved or turned, and legs, tenticals, curltails, etc., would be added (glued) on. The template would need to be sanded smooth and coated with enamel paint. Get a high temp silicone mold kit, make a dam as per instructions, affix your template on a sheet of glass with Super Glue, spray with silicone mold release, mix the silicone mold components and pour over the template as directed. When dry, remove the silicone's foil dam around the edges and carefully lift the silicone from the template.

Turn the mould over, heat your plastic, spray mold release inside the mold, and pour. I have attempted a two sided, and even a closed mold, but the two sided produced extra fat worms and the one piece was impossible to release the product unless it was tapered and had no appendages. I have also combined many creatures into one by cutting and cauterizing them together with a hobby hot knife (actually a soldering pencil with a #11 X-Acto blade on the end), or a battery operated cauterizer made for worms available at some sports shops. Those are the only 'Low Budget' fixes I have come up with without ordering aluminum, drawing blueprints, and having a CNC operator set the program and pay them (quite costly when all is said and done).

Edited by Bassinman200
misspell

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7 minutes ago, Eliiz said:

Hi! I'm in fond of different DIY crafts. Recently, I started writing articles about this topic.
If you are interested -> welcome to the best spray paint for plastic

You have the wrong forum. This one is about making soft plastic fishing lures from plastisol.

Your link is an ad for Rustoleum paints and not relevant here.

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