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dtrs5kprs

Twisted Cable Guards?

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Anyone have a source for a twisted cable wire guard? Not looking for wire like a 7 strand or Mason wire. Have been using uncoated 45# Mason leader wire in a small jig, and have used a variety of coated leader wires. Looking for the type that is a bit less likely to fray, like a Jewel spider, among others.

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Lure parts online sell one and it isn't the one from Do-it but there own.

Looked for it, but did not find it. Will look again. All I found at LPO was the solid stainless wire, do it and a house version. Thanks.

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Something else you might try is dipping the tips of the I coated wire in clear powder paint. This works very well to keep them from fraying. If done properly you can't even tell it's there when it cures.

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Something else you might try is dipping the tips of the I coated wire in clear powder paint. This works very well to keep them from fraying. If done properly you can't even tell it's there when it cures.

X2 on that     mainly for un coated Braided Leader Wire.

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Something else you might try is dipping the tips of the I coated wire in clear powder paint. This works very well to keep them from fraying. If done properly you can't even tell it's there when it cures.

I've heard this one before but have not tried it. When in the painting process are you doing it?

My thought would be dip the head, then quickly dip the guard, but not sure it would be hot enough at that point.

Trying not to add a separate heating step. These are 1/16 and 1/8 oz finesse heads with #2 hooks, and I am painting in the hundreds of them.

Also thought about a quick dip in some 2 ton, but again the extra step is an issue.

Edited by dtrs5kprs

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I've heard this one before but have not tried it. When in the painting process are you doing it?

My thought would be dip the head, then quickly dip the guard, but not sure it would be hot enough at that point.

Trying not to add a separate heating step. These are 1/16 and 1/8 oz finesse heads with #2 hooks, and I am painting in the hundreds of them.

Also thought about a quick dip in some 2 ton, but again the extra step is an issue.

It's going to depend on your heat source.

I usually heat the wires after doing the main head color. I use a lighter for both. If you use a heat gun you should be able to heat both the wires and head at the same time. I pour some powder into the lid of the container to the depth I want coated and swish.

When doing 100's it may not be the most practical. The wire does heat pretty fast in the color change of the flame though.

I'm assuming you pre cut your wires to length before molding them. You might try tipping several wires at once before molding. Any odd coating "hairs" that string out when separating will disappear on curing.

It doesn't matter when you coat the wires as long as you do so before curing in the oven.

As for the d2t.... I don't know how that would work out if done before curing but could of course be done after. It seems like it may create more of a "ball" effect on the ends of the wires if you didn't thin it out a great deal. You might try it though or a thinner epoxy.

It's all just what comes as being easiest for you.

Edited by CarverGLX

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Those methods would be fine on a smaller scale. Even making them just for myself I pour and paint a few hundred. It is a tiny head we fish on 6# line in clear water, so you don't go to the lake withjust a dozen.

Thought on the epoxy it would be possible to cure them, then dip them fast and furiously in the 60min version, and hang to cure. The wire is something like 0.024 so it would be a minimal blob of glue if done quickly. Head cement might even work.

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I still think that a quick "Heat & Dip of the Tip" would be the fastest   ... I do it while doing the head  .. clean and quick.

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