jcool3 Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Anyone know what causes pitting in lead pours. I'm pouring 2-3 oz lead jigs, not smooth. the mold is smooth, but I get little craters all over. thanks for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 sound like you are demolding too quick. are you getting this on the first pour or after the mold warms up/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 It could be several things depending on what equipment you have and size ,type of mold . First guess is the lead is not pure or the flow into the cavities is in some way restricted not giving you a consistant flow . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Could be a lot of things as Toad Frog has already mentioned. What it sounds like it the lead is freezing in layers causing wrinkles, pits and voids. If that is the case try getting the mold hotter and the lead hotter, if you are using scrap lead it may contain a high percentage of antimony making it hard lead which pours ok but requires higher temps, especially with that size jig head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I just got a lee production pot IV, because my old pot was not hot enough. Does anyone have any suggestion on what the temp setting would be good? It is a low to high 1-9 scale. Right now I have it on 5. Im using silicone molds, when the mold gets hot, I get less craters, but they never disappear. haven't got a totally smooth pour yet. Would cutting vent slots help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I just got a lee production pot IV, because my old pot was not hot enough. Does anyone have any suggestion on what the temp setting would be good? It is a low to high 1-9 scale. Right now I have it on 5. Im using silicone molds, when the mold gets hot, I get less craters, but they never disappear. haven't got a totally smooth pour yet. Would cutting vent slots help? There is your problem, the Lee Production pot IV, that isn't meant for 2oz to 3oz heads. You need a good size ladle like a 5 ounce with a LEE 20# open pot. Even if you bump the temp up on the bottom pour it still isn't going to get you a smooth pour because it isn't fast enough so you will have freezing in layers which is going to be rough. The cheaper way out id the 4lb precision pot but you'll have to keep adding lead every 3 or 4 heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 toadfrog and smalljaw is giving you good advice The temp normally needs to be set on 8. I don't think a vent will help. "a pic is worth a thousand words." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 There is your problem, the Lee Production pot IV, that isn't meant for 2oz to 3oz heads. You need a good size ladle like a 5 ounce with a LEE 20# open pot. Even if you bump the temp up on the bottom pour it still isn't going to get you a smooth pour because it isn't fast enough so you will have freezing in layers which is going to be rough. The cheaper way out id the 4lb precision pot but you'll have to keep adding lead every 3 or 4 heads. I notice that a very fine stream comes out of the pot IV. Can that hole be enlarged, drilled out slightly bigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I notice that a very fine stream comes out of the pot IV. Can that hole be enlarged, drilled out slightly bigger? If you enlarge the opening you will ruin the pot as the lead will just pour out when it melts, your best bet is to get the 20# magnum melter plus a large ladle. http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Melting-Pots/Lee-Magnum-Melter-110v.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Easiest fix is is to get a ladle. Do-it has some good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) I notice that a very fine stream comes out of the pot IV. Can that hole be enlarged, drilled out slightly bigger? Using a pro-4 20 Pot -Absolutely- 1 size larger. Then attach the plunger (stem) w/ the slotted end to a drill,apply some lapping compound to the tip, insert until it stops and spin in both directions w/ light pressure. Inspect the tip and you'll see when all irregularities are polished out.The pro-4 20 has an adjustment screw to control the rate of lead. Make sure you flux your lead every time you add new lead and/ or cutoff sprues to the pot.. You'll make out better w/ x-ray sheet lead( it's soft) for jigs and weights.The impurities in lead-especially garage wheel weights will give you problems.here's pot that can be drilled- http://www.basspro.com/Lee-Lead-Production-Pot-20-lb-Capacity/product/44523/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&om_mmc=shopping_googleproductextensions&kpid=44523%26adc=pg_315_11128_5282c124e4b006f67e95bcb3_41408749711 Edited for spelling Edited May 10, 2014 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 toadfrog and smalljaw is giving you good advice The temp normally needs to be set on 8. I don't think a vent will help. "a pic is worth a thousand words." cranked it up to 8, now my pours are usable. not perfect. thanks. I think I might be too hot. the lead in the pouring hold of my mold stays liquid for about 20 seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Using a pro-4 20 Pot -Absolutely- 1 size larger. Then attach the plunger (stem) w/ the slotted end to a drill,apply some lapping compound to the tip, insert until it stops and spin in both directions w/ light pressure. Inspect the tip and you'll see when all irregularities are polished out.The pro-4 20 has an adjustment screw to control the rate of lead. Make sure you flux your lead every time you add new lead and/ or cutoff sprues to the pot.. You'll make out better w/ x-ray sheet lead( it's soft) for jigs and weights.The impurities in lead-especially garage wheel weights will give you problems.here's pot that can be drilled- http://www.basspro.com/Lee-Lead-Production-Pot-20-lb-Capacity/product/44523/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&om_mmc=shopping_googleproductextensions&kpid=44523%26adc=pg_315_11128_5282c124e4b006f67e95bcb3_41408749711 Edited for spelling wish I got the 4 20 instead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 If you enlarge the opening you will ruin the pot as the lead will just pour out when it melts, your best bet is to get the 20# magnum melter plus a large ladle. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/19511-lees-lead-pot/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 the lead in the pouring hold of my mold stays liquid for about 20 seconds. This is typical of silicone molds, they don't get rid of heat like aluminum does. So I would say it is not too hot, but 7 might work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I'm getting pretty good pours now without modifying the lee pot IV. Heat setting about 7. Adding some softer lead to the mix, fluxing, enlarging the pour hold in the mold, and making sure the silicone mold is hot. Still getting the occasional pits. Solution seems to be throw the bad ones back in the pot and repour. Thanks for all the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 jcool what you are referring to here are called inclusions. These are caused by a number of things. Speed of pouring causing turbulence in the flow of metal, this increases the chance of oxides forming. Fluidity of the metal can cause this, dirt or dust/impurity contamination, poor molds, improper mold release, gas buildup in your pour caused by improper venting, temperature causing premature shrinkage, all kinds of stuff can cause this. Change your flux first. I'm betting you have really dirty lead or ladle.. Salammoniac works well but it's nasty, a wood stick works well, bees wax works well although very flammable LOL watch your eyebrows. There's also some bullet pouring stuff from places like midway etc that work well too. If changing flux doesnt fix it then pour hotter and slower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Also try putting your mold right up against the nozzle on your pot it kinda injects the lead see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Salty, Is your avatar what happens when you flux with bees wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 LOL pretty much yes Salty, Is your avatar what happens when you flux with bees wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Mark, I can always count on you to make me laugh. You are just too funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 jcool what you are referring to here are called inclusions. These are caused by a number of things. Speed of pouring causing turbulence in the flow of metal, this increases the chance of oxides forming. Fluidity of the metal can cause this, dirt or dust/impurity contamination, poor molds, improper mold release, gas buildup in your pour caused by improper venting, temperature causing premature shrinkage, all kinds of stuff can cause this. Change your flux first. I'm betting you have really dirty lead or ladle.. Salammoniac works well but it's nasty, a wood stick works well, bees wax works well although very flammable LOL watch your eyebrows. There's also some bullet pouring stuff from places like midway etc that work well too. If changing flux doesnt fix it then pour hotter and slower. Does the position of the pour hole make any difference? I put the pour hole in the middle (belly) of my fish shaped jigs. Would putting the pour hole near one end change the flow pattern. Also, even on good pours I may get a few pits. What do you guys using to fill the pits. Would bondo work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Yes it can have this effect if it's creating turbulence inside as it's poured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcool3 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Yes it can have this effect if it's creating turbulence inside as it's poured. so a pour hole near the end, slightly off vertical would be better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I don't know what your mold looks like so hard to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
