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Swim Jigs....eyes Question

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I use eyes on my swim jigs and spinnerbaits, the eyes I use are made by WTP or witchcraft tape products, the adhesive is very good so no glue is needed. I always and I mean ALWAYS add a top coat of Devcon 2 Ton epoxy over top of the once it is on, actually I coat the entire head and it serves 2 purposes, the first is it gives the finish a little extra protection from rocks and the 2nd reason is it will seal the eyes so they will not come off. If you put eyes on, even with a little super glue behind the eye, it will eventually come off because the super glue isn't water resistant so it will break down. Now, if you use cheaper eye other than WTP, then you will need a drop of super glue behind the eye in order for it to stick, trust me, I've used a ton of different eyes and the best in terms of quality and the best adhesive is WTP, in fact you could probably put WTP eyes on a swim jig and fish it several times before the eyes fall off without an epoxy top coat.

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I too prefer WTP eyes. I also use D2T over the entire eye. I have had customers beat them into the rocks for days and the eyes stay on.

I avoid the cheaper eyes as they are a pain to glue each one first. I still have some to use up so I will use them until they are gone them buy some more WTP eyes.

I wouldn't trust the adhesive backing on the eyes to hold them for too long.

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Try this . Use a flat eye which for some reason sticks better . Then take a black 3D eye and stick it onto the center of your flat eye . for some reason the 3D eye sticks solidly to the flat . Use epoxy over that . It will give you a near enough 3D look to satisfy most folks .

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How do you guys apply the epoxy...brush?  And how does it look?  Does anyone have a picture they can post?  I do sell some of these and want them to look professional....if they were just for me I wouldn't care.

Yes, apply the D2T with a brush. it is self leveling. Do not put on too much as it will drip. The picture below shows how I apply my epoxy and let it dry. Picture does not show applied 3d eye or epoxy. If you don't apply too much it will never run. If it does, it will run down the hook shank. The finish once it is done is just simply beautiful. If you want to see some pics, PM me your e-mail, I don't want to post pics here, as I have a business and don't want anyone to think I am advertising on here.

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post-13040-0-62358700-1400076520_thumb.jpg

Edited by cadman
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Hello..... The use of D2T is the best way to go and the trick to keep everything level and smooth is with a turner. Never have drips and don't have to worry about the amount you put on. Also a very fast way to do it. I use a rotisory (spelling ?) charcoal grill motor , RPM are about 7 to 9 for speed. Take some insulation board, what ever thickness you can find ,2 inch is nice though. Start by cutting 2 wheels about 15 inches across and put them on the shaft of the grill that holds the meat on. Use the prongs that hold the meat on this shaft to hold the wheels in place so the weight of the lures you put on don't ware a hole that will spin after a while. I used one ice cream pale on the opp. end from the motor to hold up that end. Cut a small groove in lip of bucket to hold shaft. The motor end is strapped with a hose clamp to a old tackle box. So you don't have to get real fancy to have your lures come out great. I do this to buzz baits,spinnerbaits and all types of jids. This is not my idea because some one this sight had wrote about this method a long time ago. BUT IT DOES WORK GREAT. HAVE FUN. STEVE

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What if you just laid them all on one side and painted on a little of the epoxy and let it dry, then do the other side?  Would that work too?

 

Thanks

 

 I paint and clearcoat thousands of jigs with eyes standing them up as previously shown and it is the fastest way to do jigs. I rarely have any runs. D2T when mixed is thick, as it sits it gets thicker to the point of where you can't  brush it any more. You will only be able to do maybe 10 jigs at a time before you can't brush the D2T. The way you mentioned to lay it down and do one side at a time, is not a good idea. Do the entire jig and let it dry. Less handling, means less fish eyes on the epoxy.

Edited by cadman
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 I paint and clearcoat thousands of jigs with eyes standing them up as previously shown and it is the fastest way to do jigs. I rarely have any runs. D2T when mixed is thick, as it sits it gets thicker to the point of where you can't  brush it any more. You will only be able to do maybe 10 jigs at a time before you can't brush the D2T. The way you mentioned to lay it down and do one side at a time, is not a good idea. Do the entire jig and let it dry. Less handling, means less fish eyes on the epoxy.

 

So don't do just over the eyes?  Do the entire jig?

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What if you just laid them all on one side and painted on a little of the epoxy and let it dry, then do the other side?  Would that work too?

 

Thanks

 

If you did one side you would have to wait until the next day to do the other side. D2T 30 minute epoxy will get too thick to use within 10 - 12 minutes but it takes about 5 hours until you can touch it without it being tacky and it takes a full 12 hours to cure. D2T is a top coat for the entire lure, it will make the color really pop as it dries super clear but you have to put the time in, if you don't want to coat the entire lure then just a drop of super glue on the back of the eye will do. You need to be careful as super glue will make the eyes cloudy if you get any on the eye.

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squideyes_zps0473c833.jpg

 

 

This may not be the best picture but both of these jigs have D2T coated eyes.

I have yet to hear a customer complaint.

These are bigger jigs (4 or 6 oz if i remember correctly)so I only brush it on over and around the eyes but they still hold up very well.

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On 5/13/2014 at 4:39 PM, smalljaw said:

I use eyes on my swim jigs and spinnerbaits, the eyes I use are made by WTP or witchcraft tape products, the adhesive is very good so no glue is needed. I always and I mean ALWAYS add a top coat of Devcon 2 Ton epoxy over top of the once it is on, actually I coat the entire head and it serves 2 purposes, the first is it gives the finish a little extra protection from rocks and the 2nd reason is it will seal the eyes so they will not come off. If you put eyes on, even with a little super glue behind the eye, it will eventually come off because the super glue isn't water resistant so it will break down. Now, if you use cheaper eye other than WTP, then you will need a drop of super glue behind the eye in order for it to stick, trust me, I've used a ton of different eyes and the best in terms of quality and the best adhesive is WTP, in fact you could probably put WTP eyes on a swim jig and fish it several times before the eyes fall off without an epoxy top coat.

how to you put the D2T on? I used a small craft brush and it left brush marks. I had read that it is self leveling and would not leave brush marks. Any suggestions? I am new at this. Thanks

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I have never had an issue with D2T and brush marks. The only thing I can think of is that the D2T was close to set and was to thick to put on the eyes?

I use Seal Coat which works really well on jigs and crankbaits and is water based so you can clean and reuse a good artist brush.

For example:

https://barlowstackle.com/Seal-Coat-Lure-and-Jig-Finish-P956/

If you have a Fleet Farm in your area they sell the small bottle.  To help make it last darn near forever, after you seal the jar or can, put a sandwich bag over it and seal with a rubber band. Double air block!

Edited by DaBehr
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2 hours ago, basshunter824 said:

how to you put the D2T on? I used a small craft brush and it left brush marks. I had read that it is self leveling and would not leave brush marks. Any suggestions? I am new at this. Thanks

Did you use Devcon 2-Ton or did you use the Devcon 5 min epoxy?  I'm asking that because a friend of mine purchased unpainted heads from LPO so he could paint and finish them himself. He was at my house where I helped him powder paint his swim jigs and he went home to put the eyes on and clear coat. He brought his jigs over the next day and they had brush marks all over, I never saw that before. It turns out he got Devcon 5 minute epoxy so that is why I asked the question. If it is the 2-Ton epoxy then my next question is going to be, did you thin it or alter it in any way? I know some guys thin it with denatured alcohol even though the manufacturer says not to thin it right on the package. 

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Have to add to this. I've been thinning D2T with isopropyl alcohol, not same luck with denatured. have coated 800+ plastic body lures during past 3 winters. I apply with a 5mil latex glove using my index finger only. i apply a bit of pressure to keep the coating thin and causes the scales to reveal. No failures that I am aware of. Here's a MB Vision 95mm KO I did a couple years back. Blue-back golden shiner. Great rip bait!

1159651976_180223Vision95Blue-Gold.thumb.jpg.b01a605ced7be3beea32888185f41e11.jpg 

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On 2/19/2020 at 1:05 PM, smalljaw said:

Did you use Devcon 2-Ton or did you use the Devcon 5 min epoxy?  I'm asking that because a friend of mine purchased unpainted heads from LPO so he could paint and finish them himself. He was at my house where I helped him powder paint his swim jigs and he went home to put the eyes on and clear coat. He brought his jigs over the next day and they had brush marks all over, I never saw that before. It turns out he got Devcon 5 minute epoxy so that is why I asked the question. If it is the 2-Ton epoxy then my next question is going to be, did you thin it or alter it in any way? I know some guys thin it with denatured alcohol even though the manufacturer says not to thin it right on the package. 

I used DT2 30 minute. Did not thin it. Mixed it and began applying. hung to dry overnight and had brush marks. Tried 5 more the next night...same result.☹

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On 2/19/2020 at 12:19 PM, DaBehr said:

I have never had an issue with D2T and brush marks. The only thing I can think of is that the D2T was close to set and was to thick to put on the eyes?

I use Seal Coat which works really well on jigs and crankbaits and is water based so you can clean and reuse a good artist brush.

For example:

https://barlowstackle.com/Seal-Coat-Lure-and-Jig-Finish-P956/

If you have a Fleet Farm in your area they sell the small bottle.  To help make it last darn near forever, after you seal the jar or can, put a sandwich bag over it and seal with a rubber band. Double air block!

seal coat was the first thing i tried on my swim jigs. looked great after drying, but began to peel off 2 or 3 days later. maybe i got a bad bottle. not off to a good start. seal coat and D2T have both been disappointing. maybe its just me. lol. im just trying to learn how to do this and do it well. any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

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6 hours ago, basshunter824 said:

I used DT2 30 minute. Did not thin it. Mixed it and began applying. hung to dry overnight and had brush marks. Tried 5 more the next night...same result.☹

I have been using D2T for over 10 years and only a couple times I've had issues where it was tacky, because I did not measure equal amounts. Other than that it always dried clear and glossy.  When you mix the two equal amounts together, only mix for about a minute. Than brush it on your jig or bait. Do not over brush. D2T is self leveling, and it will even out. Make sure you are in a warm environment 65 degrees plus when mixing and letting it dry. If you wait too long to brush it on, D2T will start to harden and you will not be able to brush it on a jig or bait. I have never had brush marks. You really only have about 10 minutes of working time from the time you mix it to the time it starts to harden, so don't mix too much. Try it again and see how it goes.

Good Luck and Welcome to TU.

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On 2/19/2020 at 9:33 AM, basshunter824 said:

how to you put the D2T on? I used a small craft brush and it left brush marks. I had read that it is self leveling and would not leave brush marks. Any suggestions? I am new at this. Thanks

I never really got along with D2T. Not enough working time for me. I have found KBS Diamond has a longer working time....much longer...and gives a crystal clear finish also. It is a moisture cure urethane and storage can be an issue with MCU’s but I have had a quart for a long time using the tap the can method and bloxygen.

All that said, there are excellent epoxies used by rod builders to coat the wrappings on rods that have excellent working times and are self leveling. I like a product called Proflex that’s easy to work with and long pot life. No storage issues either because it’s a two part epoxy. Crystal clear. 
 

One other thing you will probably want to do to get your best overall result when topcoating your creations, is make yourself a lure turner. Cuts down on the frustration of drips, runs and such of topcoats and allows you to use and experiment with most any topcoat. You can find all kinds of lure turner threads here with a search. 

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