Procraft01 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 _gdata_player Does anyone know what all is used to hold the master and the blank, and what are the two black things in the middle thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 The two black things in the middle look like support bearings for the middle of the shaft assembly. The master is held in a check, with the other end locked to the drive shaft. The blank is also locked at the right end to the drive shaft, and the left end looks like some kind of dead center that was turned on the end of the threaded tension rod at the left. This guy is either a machinist, or has access to someone who is. That's a neat setup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procraft01 Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 It doesn't look like it would be that hard to build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 If you can weld, use a lathe, have all the electrical stuff, and have access to parts, you're right, but you still need a lot of mechanical know-how to get everything working properly. Vodkaman made a duplicating machine a while back, and he's much more familiar with the entire process and it's challenges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) ProCraft, Those are support bearings for the central shaft. Most commonly called pillow blocks. For most somewhat DIY mechanical people they are mostly likely to see them on the squirrel cage of a blower like in a swamp cooler. Mark, I disagree. I think that entire machine could be built with hand tools and power tools. It would have some fiddley bits to get it to work right, but it would no matter how you built it. I like that the builder took some mind towards safety, although his wiring kinda makes me cringe a bit. The only thing I think would require machining is his master, but from other duplicators we have seen we don't have to have a metal master. It just holds up better. It looks like it might have been inspired by redg8r's design. I like this one better with the side by side key cutter style, but that may just be personal taste. I wish he had used image stabilization when he was recording. A couple things I would really like to see on any of the duplicators to step them up is: 1. Some sort of fast return maybe using half nuts. Disengage the half nuts and push your key cutter back to the start point. Might allow for some rapid adjustment between guide and cutter that way too. 2. A hub to feed a solid piece of stock through so it roughs the bait and cuts it off so you can just retract the cutter, and push the stock forward to cut the next one. Then you only have to open the cover when the pile of blanks below gets to tall. (I guess those two would kind of go hand in hand. Hand loaded blanks as shown could be cut in either direction.) I do admit being able to weld would help. More people have welders I think though than machine tools. Edited June 2, 2014 by Bob La Londe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procraft01 Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 So the piece on the far left is home made or can I buy it, my cousin welds for a living so hes making the top bracket and thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 The part were it screws in to pin the stock in place? It looks like a cast part to me. That means its not likely to be home made. I don't know what it is though. Maybe part of a wood workers vise? You could make something similar by drilling and tapping a piece of aluminum (or steel) plate for a handy length of threaded rod. If you don't have an Acme tap to make his fairly fast lead setup a regular 60 degree V-groove tap and threaded rod or suitable bolt would work. It just won't screw in and out as quickly as his setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procraft01 Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Yea thats it, im guessing the pin inside the rod is free so it will spin right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) No. Not at all. It more likely fixed, and the wood is pushed onto it (or rather its pushed into the wood) and it spins because of low friction due to smooth finish on the point. Its a "dead" center. If I was cobbling one together I might just taper the point of my bolt by slowly rotating it against a cheap benchtop belt sander. Edited June 2, 2014 by Bob La Londe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) I have a cupped dead center with a fixed centering pin on my old swap meet wood lathe. After I center punch the end of the stock, I put paraffin wax on the dead center and push it into the end of the stock. There is a threaded rest on my lathe bed, with a wheel to advance the center, and a set screw to lock it in place. I've seen duplicating wood lathes for turnings and spindles in shops, and often wondered if they could be adapted for crank manufacturing. zi just never could figure out how to mount a cutting machine in place of the lathe chisel. Edited June 2, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 I have a cupped dead center with a fixed centering pin on my old swap meet wood lathe. After I center punch the end of the stock, I put paraffin wax on the dead center and push it into the end of the stock. There is a threaded rest on my lathe bed, with a wheel to advance the center, and a set screw to lock it in place. I've seen duplicating wood lathes for turnings and spindles in shops, and often wondered if they could be adapted for crank manufacturing. zi just never could figure out how to mount a cutting machine in place of the lathe chisel. The easiest way would probably be to just clamp a rotary handpiece where the chisel goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Stanford Lures has a video on youtube that shows a lure carving machine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 It would seam that it is something one with a little bit of skill could build will relative ease. As mentioned the return for the cutter would be something to tweak based on how the video appears the copier moves. Still not for sure I wouldn't try using a small palm router as the cutter with a Saburr Tooth set up. One of those things I always want to make for kicks but don't think I would use too often. As far as masters if you can't carve one a drill press and crank is all you need. I would use a "set" screw set up to lock the master in place on the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procraft01 Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 What is used on the right side of the blank its black, maybe something that has prongs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 (edited) Looks to be a four spur chuck drive center. ~ 20-40 bucks Edited June 3, 2014 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROWINGADUBAY Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 I understand the grinder (with saw blade) and stylus are riding on a threaded rod but how do you return it without having to run it in reverse? Is there a half nut ? or a pin of some sort ? I imagine the top assembly is held against the blank and template with a spring. But I think after going an inch or two it would want to jump threads and return to its starting point. How is this avoided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 His design just looks like you have to run it in reverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 His design just looks like you have to run it in reverse. Could he make the second cut in reverse? That would keep him from having to back it all the way up and start over. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) His design just looks like you have to run it in reverse. Not sure why the second post appeared. Admins please delete. Ben Edited June 4, 2014 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Could he make the second cut in reverse? That would keep him from having to back it all the way up and start over. Ben If he is hand setting precut blanks there isn't much reason he couldn't. My comments about half nuts and fast retract were more along the lines of redesigning it so you could just feed square stock in from one end, and not even open the machine until the pile of cut blanks and sawdust piled up to high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLASH Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 OK fellas . The return of the cradle just motor in reverse . The cast alloy plate on the far left comes of a drop saw . All the electrics are 12 volt to prevent any unwanted shocks ..And I can only cut from left to right as if I go from right to left it throws the block out . It looks crude there is no doubt about it but I've cut 100s of blanks and it still runs true . This duplicator is a hybrid from all the good ones I've watched on youtube and thought this was the easiest design I could build. I find some machines are over engineered . Keep it simple and you don't loose fingers I say. Cheers for the comments guys . FLASH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLASH Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Oh yeah . I forgot to add that im sorry for the music as my mate hates slow music so to stick it to him I found that . A few other safety mods too . Im currently working on another with auto stop and return in fast mode . FLASH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 What kind of a saw blade did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLASH Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 just went to a tool shop and asked for a cutting blade like a circulars saw blade for a 4 inch angle grinder . This is what the gave me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 It sure seems to do the job! I use angle grinders a lot, and having a wood cutting blade on one would scare the crap out of me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
