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Art Brush

Water slide decal tests

29 posts in this topic

Hey Fellas,

Sorry for the lack of participation in the forums... I'm slapp @ssed busy and gotten behind in work :(.

The water slide decals are a blast and not all that hard to work with. There is some planning involved. The decals are tailored to fit the lure. Here's a few that I sketched out on paper then scanned into adobe. I printed them out on regular paper first, wet them and wrapped them on a blank. If you can get it close on wet paper it will work well in decal form.

Mack Daddy Craws... the areas between the segments are cut away. The segment lines are like fingers that wrap across the back of the lure. They are trimmed on the centerline.

Frog Patterns are done in 5 parts. the back stripe, 2 side flanks and the 2 ear tags.

Glow waleye... the scale pattern stripes are not as simple as just laying stripes across the back. The first stripe is straight as it lays across the flattest part of the saddle. As the stripes progress towards to the tail they are slightly bent like boomerangs. The bend increases with each stripe the closer it gets to the tail. This keeps the stripes verticle on the lures profile. The translucent fins overlap the first stripe.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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Maddox that is an awesome white crappie job ya got on that Poes. Looks like it'll catch a boat load of bass. I look forward to seeing more of your lures.Tight lines,

Shawn

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Thanks for your comments Artbrush.

That was my second attempt at photo finishing and I am still learning. I have a couple baits that I am working on and when finished I will post the photos.

When I read about the clear decals I instantly thought using foil under it. That will be coming soon.

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:) Those are some awesome looking lures. Love them crawdads, but then again I love them all. Keep up the great work and show us some more when you can. Give us some more details and tips on your decals and applications. What type of base coat and top coat are you using? Once again great job.

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Thanks for the kind words guys, I appreciate your comments.

Maddox... I missed that about the images. The decals are first pencil sketched by hand then scanned into the computer. I use adobe photoshop to do all the black line work over the sketch. Then I add the shadowing. The files are 300 dpi for sharper details.

Bill :) .. a few tips and tricks. When cutting the decal from the sheet leave about 1/8 inch border. That way when you work the edges down with the sponge applicator you're not rubbing directly on the decal print.

I place the wet decal with the paper backing in position on the lure before sliding it off the paper. The paper backing is pulled from between the lure and the decal... the decal lays onto the lure as the paper is pulled away.

Using a damp applicator work from the center towards the outer edges forcing out any trapped air. Blot excess water off the applicator onto a paper towel. If you start to get creases or wrinkles you can re-wet the decal with the applicator and float that area back up off the lures surface to stretch it a little further.

The lures are base coated with flat white enamel and airbrushed with acyrilic waterbased paints. I use devcon 2 ton epoxy for the topcoat.

Kudos to Hughsey and Nathan for turning me onto decaling. :D

Tight lines,

Shawn

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Sallys beauty supply has sponge applicators 30 for 2.99. A single applicator can be used for several lures before it wears out.

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Nice work Shawn!!

I am also in decals at this time. Ordered some paper for the inkjet printers, want to put some colors onto my lures. Black/white decals looks good, but now I see, that color ones look far more better :!:

One tip, that I've found working with decals:

I make one decal for each side of the lure. Dip it in the water, then lay it on the sponge image down. Slide the paper out, then lay the lure on the decal and slightly press it down.

Here is some of my lures. They are unfinished, need the back to be painted and topcoated

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vytautas... you've got to be proud of them lures buddy they are beautiful! 8O The topcoat is really gonna set them off :D Do you plan to use any metal flake in the epoxy?

Tight lines,

Shawn

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Great looking work Shawn!

Question:

What's the trick on taking a 2D drawing to a 3D lure? Does your software make the transition for you?

Again, great looking lures, I especially like those "metallics".

Regards,

DeVery

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Thanks Artbrush

I am still amazed with this process. I ordered 5 sheets of the clear decal paper yesterday just to try out.

Awesome baits vytautas, post some pictures of them once they are finished.

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WOW Shawn!!!!!! You've taken this decaling to the next level...Beautiful job!!!..Nathan

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vytautas... you've got to be proud of them lures buddy they are beautiful! 8O The topcoat is really gonna set them off :D Do you plan to use any metal flake in the epoxy?

Tight lines' date='

Shawn[/quote']

no Shawn, I must go a thousand miles to reach your skills. When they will be as much beautiful as yours, I will be proud :D

at this time I am having troubles to get the right base coat. As you said in one of your posts, foam has micro bubbles and they are coming out to the surface of lure. The sides of lure has perfect finish, but the belly and back 8O ... when I cut off all molding "things" (don't know how it calls) that place is open to bubbles for come out. They are destroying all basecoats I've tried :( Tried the epoxy - it is perfect, but it's not white. I am afraid, that if I will coat the lure with epoxy, then paint in white, then in pearl, then topcoat two times, my lure will lose the shape and action... I need that scheme: white epoxy, pearl, 2 topcoats. Or am I wrong about that???

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vytautas... you've got to be proud of them lures buddy they are beautiful! 8O The topcoat is really gonna set them off :D Do you plan to use any metal flake in the epoxy?

Tight lines' date='

Shawn[/quote']

no Shawn, I must go a thousand miles to reach your skills. When they will be as much beautiful as yours, I will be proud :D

at this time I am having troubles to get the right base coat. As you said in one of your posts, foam has micro bubbles and they are coming out to the surface of lure. The sides of lure has perfect finish, but the belly and back 8O ... when I cut off all molding "things" (don't know how it calls) that place is open to bubbles for come out. They are destroying all basecoats I've tried :( Tried the epoxy - it is perfect, but it's not white. I am afraid, that if I will coat the lure with epoxy, then paint in white, then in pearl, then topcoat two times, my lure will lose the shape and action... I need that scheme: white epoxy, pearl, 2 topcoats. Or am I wrong about that???

Hey Vytautas,

The "Flash", where the mold halves meet is a problem when working with foam. Have you tried "Foiling" the baits, and then finishing. It will give you a great base to paint or decal over. A good clear coat will lock it all in. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Does anyone know a good clear coat to use? :rolleyes::rolleyes:

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Hey Vytautas,

The "Flash", where the mold halves meet is a problem when working with foam. Have you tried "Foiling" the baits, and then finishing. It will give you a great base to paint or decal over. A good clear coat will lock it all in. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Does anyone know a good clear coat to use? :rolleyes::rolleyes:

I will try to fix that problem by making a new mold. After pouring one side of the mold, it will be polished to have a perfect surface, then when I will pour epoxy on it, mold will close perfectly to prevent these ?Flash?

Hope you?ll understand, what I meant :)

I know, I?ve promised you to post pictures of my mold, I will post the whole process :D

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Hey Vytautas' date='

The "Flash", where the mold halves meet is a problem when working with foam. Have you tried "Foiling" the baits, and then finishing. It will give you a great base to paint or decal over. A good clear coat will lock it all in. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Does anyone know a good clear coat to use? :rolleyes::rolleyes:[/quote']

I will try to fix that problem by making a new mold. After pouring one side of the mold, it will be polished to have a perfect surface, then when I will pour epoxy on it, mold will close perfectly to prevent these ?Flash?

Hope you?ll understand, what I meant :)

I know, I?ve promised you to post pictures of my mold, I will post the whole process :D

Your work is excellent and I'm sure I'll learn from your example. Now, hurry up with those pictures and instructions, ....Please. :wink: Are you making Resin Molds? I ask because It's difficult to polish Silicone Rubber. :huh:

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Art Brush....that names fits you perfectly! you are an artist in every sense of the word. truly amazing work.

jaime (aka u63405)

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Thanks for the kind words fellas :)

Sporoller, You're gonna like working with the decals. I find they work best on an epoxy finish.. though you could use them on paint.

Jaime, that's a nice name, I think it fit's you better than u63405 :) Post some more of your lures buddy they're cool.

Devery, The software (Adobe photoshop) doesn't make the transition. While sketching the 2d, I study the shape of the lure and envision how it should wrap. I use photoshop to make any tweaks to get a perfect fit. I kinda got an eye for it from working on video game characters.

Vy, Husky, The flash you are getting on the mold seam is from the spru hole clogging up. The pressure is redirected to the seam as the foam in the spru hole solidifys. Keeping the spru hole clear as the foam ports out is the best bet. Try using a disposable plastic spoon to scrape away the excess. As the foam starts to thicken and set up ya might want to try poking a nail down the spru to help release more gasses and foam.

Expanding foam has a very fast reaction once it starts. You should bind your molds tightly before casting. I use featherlite and get NO FLASH at the seamline by keeping the spruhole clear.

Dealing with the pin holes has been about the only undesirable aspect of casting lures with expanding materials. It seems impossible to cast a lure without getting them. I've found a way to eliminate them while basecoating. 2 good coats usually does the trick. Lightly sand the first coat with 150 grit fine. Some of the paint dust from sanding will fill some of the holes. Then wipe the surface clean with alcohol. Before starting the second coat, spray some of the basecoat into a cup and get a toothpick. The second coat should be a little thick. While it's still wet dip the tooth pick into the cup... just enough to wet the pick but not a full drop of paint. Touch the pin hole with the toothpick. The viscosity of the paint will close up and level out.

The foil base lures:

1. Wipe down the blank lure with acetone.

2. Apply the foil.

3. Brush on a thin layer of devcon 2 ton.

4. Paint

5. Brush on a thin layer of devcon 2 ton.

6. Apply the decals and eyes.

7. Topcoat with yep... Devcon!

That's how I did the ones in the photos. It's important to keep the epoxy layers thin. Epoxy will wiegh your lures down and effect the action.

To get a high gloss finish on your RTV molds your model has to be gloss smooth before molding. I don't think it's posible to polish RTV. If you do,please let us know how it worked out.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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To get a high gloss finish on your RTV molds your model has to be gloss smooth before molding. I don't think it's posible to polish RTV. If you do' date='please let us know how it worked out.

Shawn

[/quote']

I make my molds from epoxy, so it can be polished. I will post some pictures of mold making process

vytautas

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Art Brush wrote

To get a high gloss finish on your RTV molds your model has to be gloss smooth before molding. I don't think it's posible to polish RTV. If you do,please let us know how it worked out.

Sorry Shawn, that was strictly tongue in cheek. When he said polish the molds, From that, I assumed he was using resin molds. His earlier posts led me to believe he was using foam, and as beautiful as his work turns out, I gotta know how he does it.

I'm just a Hack compared to 'Yuzz Guys" but I do appreciate and admire your works and have the ability to improve. :rolleyes:

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hey shawn!!!

I saw your snakehead patterns in the Docks. They are awesome!

Have one question for you: do you print inkjet printer or color laser. I've bought some laser paper and saw somewhere, that laser paper can be used for inkjet printers, but it must be sprayed with some kind of sealer(before or after???) what kind of sealer is used to spray those ink printerd decals?

way to go shawn!!! :D

I am after you :wink:

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Vytautas,

I don't think spray coating anything on laser paper will make it work in a desk jet. :( You could try matt acrylic. The matt properties might grab the ink better than the bare laser paper. Let us know if it works out. If it doesn't don't get rid of the laser decal paper. You might be able to trade it here at TU or back to the company you got it from. :)

For those wanting to know how I've been doing the decals... I use an injet printer to print them. Dry them for an hour after printing then seal them with 2 thin coats of krylon clear acrylic. I allow the coated decal sheet to dry for 4 or 5 hours before applying them to the lure. It's better to dry them overnite.

I saw your snakehead patterns in the Docks. They are awesome!

Thanks for the kind words Vy, the snakeheads lures are quite popular.

I am after you :wink:

LOL :D BRING IT ON! :DB) your lures are little badd @sses can't wait to try a few.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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