3D Models Of Hooks

[grundlman]

Did anyone ever make the 32768 in 3D? If not I think I am going to wing it and go for it

[Vodkaman]

I've got models of 32786 sizes 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80.

 

Email me and I will send CAD models of what you want.

 

folicallychalled@aol.co.uk

 

DAve

Edited August 29, 2014 by Vodkaman

[SlowFISH]

For anybody making molds around these models....

 

1.  Not every hook in a box is exactly identical.  That's why when somebody asks me to make a mold to accomodate a particular hook I ask for half a dozen samples of the hook they want to use.  

 

2.  While I think .010" is too much clearance for a hook some clearance is necessary.  .003 to .005 seems to work for me depending on the hook design.  It doesn't tend to flash significantly, and allows for a little variation of the hook.  Don't cut a slot that is an exact relief of the hook.  You will eventually wind up with a wider slot anyway from forcing the hooks into it.  LOL.  Also, its much easier to cut a larger clearance area where the hook does not directly interface with the bait.  Only cut a slot for the hook where it exits the cavity for a short distance, then cut a much larger pocket for the eye and barb that is the depth of the hook radius on each plate.    

 

3.  The curve of the hook is quite complex probably being bent on something the equiivelant of a spring making machine, and springing back slightly.  Any variations in the alloy or even in the pretreating processes for the wire can affect that.  They can get very close, but not perfecty identical on every hook.  Also, any processes used after bending like work hardening in a press or heat treating in a furnace can cause minor fluctuations.  

 

4.  Take all of this with a large dollop of salt.  I've ony been half serious about learning metal working for about six (6) years, and all of my knowledge is self taught from books, the internet, or mistakes in hands on experiments.  

 

Vodkaman,  I believe you have undertaken a monumental task, but from what I have seen in your past experiments you are probably the best man to do it.  If I ever find a fast reliable (and affordable) laser scanning service, or find an affordable laser scanner for my own shop, I'll probably pitch in.  I do not trust myself to provide adequate measurements for the enitre hook.  I only try to find center lines for the very short parts of a hook that exits the cavity.  

 

I started this task as well awhile back - and Bob's comments about hooks being different shoudn't be overlooked/underestimated.  I scanned a hook and traced as close as I could the form.  I then mocked them up in 3D.  After that I then used my little CNC to cut the profiles into a block to test fit.  I found maybe half worked - the straighter the hook the better the fit (Think simple round bend hooks).  Things with alot of bend (think EWG stuff) had way more variability and were a real PITA.  I now just concern myself with dialing in the hook eye and shaft near the lead - after that it's just general reference.

 

In doing this I match the critical points (entry/exit of mold cavity) and then leave a wide area for the hook to sit... has made life ALOT easier!!!

 

 J.

[Vodkaman]

Wise words, Slowfish and Bob.

 

Dave

[SCAngler]

One solution for generating the complex curves on hooks without true arcs, is to take an image of the hook, insert the image in a sketch in your CAD program, and sketch over the image. When your finished scale the sketch to the correct height(or scale the image first, this has been difficult for me in the past). Measure the Top of the hook to the tangency of the bend. This has worked great for me, and as Bob has mentioned, these hooks have a wide tolerance so you'll need to keep ~0.005" clearance in CAD depending on how your fabricating the mold. The key is to use splines, and only use two or three control points. This will allow for better control over the complex curve without inducing inflection points.

Or, import the image into the free program Inkscape and use it to covert the image into a vectorized file. This will import into your CAD program as a DXF or DWG. Then you can use these lines to generate the appropriate arcs.

Both methods work, but I like the parametric value of properly dimensioned splines, so I use that.

Off topic: It's hard to believe, but I have been very successful in molding shakey heads using Ren shape board. It's a type of polyurethane board which does not have a melting point that can withstand the temperature of melted lead, BUT the heat transfer between the lead and Ren shape doesn't ocurr fast enough to scorch the urethane. One note, I use this material for making less than 500 jig heads. Over 500, buy aluminum. Ren shape just allows me to quickly machine the mold and prototype a pot load of jig heads before I go down the aluminum road.

Sorry for diverging there, just thought it might spur some thought.

[CNC Molds N Stuff]

One solution for generating the complex curves on hooks without true arcs, is to take an image of the hook, insert the image in a sketch in your CAD program, and sketch over the image. When your finished scale the sketch to the correct height(or scale the image first, this has been difficult for me in the past). Measure the Top of the hook to the tangency of the bend. This has worked great for me, and as Bob has mentioned, these hooks have a wide tolerance so you'll need to keep ~0.005" clearance in CAD depending on how your fabricating the mold. The key is to use splines, and only use two or three control points. This will allow for better control over the complex curve without inducing inflection points.

Or, import the image into the free program Inkscape and use it to covert the image into a vectorized file. This will import into your CAD program as a DXF or DWG. Then you can use these lines to generate the appropriate arcs.

Both methods work, but I like the parametric value of properly dimensioned splines, so I use that.

Off topic: It's hard to believe, but I have been very successful in molding shakey heads using Ren shape board. It's a type of polyurethane board which does not have a melting point that can withstand the temperature of melted lead, BUT the heat transfer between the lead and Ren shape doesn't ocurr fast enough to scorch the urethane. One note, I use this material for making less than 500 jig heads. Over 500, buy aluminum. Ren shape just allows me to quickly machine the mold and prototype a pot load of jig heads before I go down the aluminum road.

Sorry for diverging there, just thought it might spur some thought.

 

 

That is excellent additional feedback for anybody making molds with hooks in them.  

[mark poulson]

One solution for generating the complex curves on hooks without true arcs, is to take an image of the hook, insert the image in a sketch in your CAD program, and sketch over the image. When your finished scale the sketch to the correct height(or scale the image first, this has been difficult for me in the past). Measure the Top of the hook to the tangency of the bend. This has worked great for me, and as Bob has mentioned, these hooks have a wide tolerance so you'll need to keep ~0.005" clearance in CAD depending on how your fabricating the mold. The key is to use splines, and only use two or three control points. This will allow for better control over the complex curve without inducing inflection points.

Or, import the image into the free program Inkscape and use it to covert the image into a vectorized file. This will import into your CAD program as a DXF or DWG. Then you can use these lines to generate the appropriate arcs.

Both methods work, but I like the parametric value of properly dimensioned splines, so I use that.

Off topic: It's hard to believe, but I have been very successful in molding shakey heads using Ren shape board. It's a type of polyurethane board which does not have a melting point that can withstand the temperature of melted lead, BUT the heat transfer between the lead and Ren shape doesn't ocurr fast enough to scorch the urethane. One note, I use this material for making less than 500 jig heads. Over 500, buy aluminum. Ren shape just allows me to quickly machine the mold and prototype a pot load of jig heads before I go down the aluminum road.

Sorry for diverging there, just thought it might spur some thought.

 

Man, I love it when you talk dirty!  Hahaha

I'm so lost when it comes to all things CAD, this is like reading a foreign language to me, but it's fun, anyway!