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Nathan

Ac1315 Concrete Sealer Top Coat

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I just finished in my garage, and one of the things I did was check my foiled bait that was dipped twice.

I found I could feel the foil seam on one side that I hadn't felt before, but the other seams were still smooth.  I couldn't feel them at all.

So, either the AC1315 continued to cure and shrink a little, or I missed it the first time I checked, and the seam wasn't smooth the last time.

Sorry for the confusion.

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I fished a phantom red wart with a painted bill, dipped once in AC1315, hard again yesterday.  I checked it this morning, and the leading edge of the bill the part with the brown paint on it, had worn slightly.  But the AC1315 hadn't peeled, and was still fine.  The orange on the underside of the bill just showed a little more, because the brown on top had worn slightly.

The more I use this stuff, the more I'm convinced that it's my top coat.

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If I'm not coating the bill, I hold the bait by the bill and dip it.

If I am coating the bill, or if it has no bill, like an unassembled jointed bait, I use hemostats, and hold it by the hook hanger, or the line tie.  Just be sure you're going to use a split ring, so any scaring from the hemostat's jaws doesn't break you line.

I tried just using paper clip wires to dip with, but the buoyant baits like to float, and the wire comes out of the hole sometimes.  That's not good.  A quick dip is key.  Otherwise, the solvent in the AC1315 has a chance to wrinkle the paint.

If I miss a spot, I just brush some on after the dip coat has set, about 4 hours.

I've also just brushed it on with an artists brush, when I don't want it to get into the joint areas of swimbaits.

My youngest loves dill pickles, so I have a ton of pickle jars for dipping.

When I was using my initial 4 oz. can for dipping, and I had a bait that was too long to dip completely, I would dip the head, and then flip it and dip the tail.  It works, too.

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I've been dipping baits in ac1315 for a few weeks now. Curing them in a hotbox/oven really seems to help the curing process.

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My oven is just a plastic milk crate lined with foil; and a piece of foil running halfway down the front.(kinda like a foil curtain) and a 50 watt ceramic heat emitter for reptiles; helps maintain about 110 in my makeshift oven. Making the foil 'curtain'/front door of the oven easily increases temps.(careful, hotter temps swell/split baits) Threaded rods running the width of the box work great to hang baits in.

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I had a couple baits that initially wrinkled the createx I used on them. Then I recalled what was mentioned in this thread about dipping them quick. So I dip my baits in the ac1315; only quick enough to coat the bait; quickly yank it from the dip; then take a hair dryer on low, just to quickly blow off the excess ac1315; leaving a super thin coat of sealer behind. Then I hang them in my makeshift 'oven' to cure.

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It seems that first, super quick dip and hair dryer blast of hot or cold air; knocks the excess ac1315 off the paint; so the sealer doesn't have a chance to left/wrinkle the paint underneath. I use this method on the first couple coats; then dip them and leave a slightly thicker glaze on the bait, the last couple coatings.

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And yes, you can paint over the ac1315 then redip without issue.

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I think I like the ac1315 better than the GST. I'm having a heckuva time getting the GST to fully cure, no matter what I try.:-(

Edited by motomania
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just dipped an LV500 that i scuffed the paint off this morning. I've had problems with them cracking open and rusting the bearings inside. partly from riprap, partly from those dang stripers, anyways I'm gonna check on it when I get home because I dropped it after I dipped in the AC1315 (of course, on the first bait i try with AC) but it looked ok and only fell a few inches and had a cat hair on it (oops). my hope is, it's able to reinforce the bait, so I can paint over the base of AC1315 and have a more durable bait.

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Thanks mark I just ordered a quart. You need to be getting a cut off all these sales you are generating.

 Hahaha

Just be sure to use multiple thin coats, and heat set/dry each coat well, or your paint will wrinkle.

I've had it happen a couple of times.  I redipped, and fished those lures with no problems, so it still protects.  It's just not as pretty anymore.

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The wrinkling I was getting from GST was caused by oil on the surface of the lure. I'm guessing this stuff works the same. Once I started giving my blanks a quick dip in acetone prior to painting the wrinkling stopped. 

This is a great pre paint process...had occasional wrinkles around diving bills and on areas with textured detail.....tried dipping in acetone before paint.....no more problems.

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I had one this weekend that I couldn't get out of the can for the life of me, it righted itself so it couldn't come out. When I got it out, it was super wrinkled, so I decided to take a sharpie and go over the wrinkles. It actually covered it up pretty well. Haha

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Hahaha

Just be sure to use multiple thin coats, and heat set/dry each coat well, or your paint will wrinkle.

I've had it happen a couple of times. I redipped, and fished those lures with no problems, so it still protects. It's just not as pretty anymore.

I use lacquer paints so I don't have to heat set my paint. I have a heat gun so I will try to give a little heat to the sealer as it cures.
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I use lacquer paints so I don't have to heat set my paint. I have a heat gun so I will try to give a little heat to the sealer as it cures.

 

I wonder if the solvent in the AC1315 plays nice with lacquer paint.  Even though it's not as bad as some other finishes, it still has some nasty solvent in it.  I always dip and hang outside, if possible, because of the fumes. 

Do a test on something before you ruin a lure.

Edited by mark poulson
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