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Nathan

Ac1315 Concrete Sealer Top Coat

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I'm just happy to have something to contribute.  I've learned so much here from people who shared.

I got mine from the manuf., at http://www.directcolors.com/product/ac-1315-high-gloss-concrete-sealer/.

I also live in CA, so I called first and asked if they would ship to CA, and they said yes.

I've reordered with no problem.

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Hey Mark,

 

I was hoping you could do me a favor. I put a worm on a bait that reacted in the past to worms yesterday morning and today it was fine. No reaction at all. I think that the heat may be the key here. I know u guys aren't having the best weather right now but if u get a sunny day can you lay one outside to see what happens? Let it sit in the sun for some time with a worm on it? 

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Hey Mark,

 

I was hoping you could do me a favor. I put a worm on a bait that reacted in the past to worms yesterday morning and today it was fine. No reaction at all. I think that the heat may be the key here. I know u guys aren't having the best weather right now but if u get a sunny day can you lay one outside to see what happens? Let it sit in the sun for some time with a worm on it? 

As soon as (if) the sun comes out, I'll do a test, and let you know what happens.

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Matt,

I had no reaction between the crank and the plastic worm.

 

On a side note, I dipped 5 lures yesterday.  I leave them on a paper clip hanger to dip them and then hang them over the dipping jar to drip.

One of them came off the hanger when I dipped, and I had to slip the hanger back into the line tie while the bait was floating in the AC1315.

I went out to check on them this morning.  That bait had some wrinkling on the belly, and some "crazing", almost crackling, on the back.  The other 4 lures were fine.

I think it was floating in the AC1315 too long, and it actually wound up with too thick a layer.  It skins over really quickly, so I'm guessing the surface of the dip coat began to set before the solvents in the lower layer under it had off gassed completely, allowing the surface to pull on the still soft under coating. 

I plan not to let that happen again.  I'll use a better hanger, and dip once and quickly in the future.

It looks fine, otherwise.  I'll do a test float today to see if the protection aspect of the top coat was compromised, and let you know.

Edited by mark poulson
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I just posted some pictures of my first attempt at joint stenciling in the hardbaits gallery.  They are all dipped once in AC1315, including the bills on the ones whose bills I painted.

 

Here is a picture of the bait that wrinkled:

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/14033-wart-brown-purple-stenciled-wrinkled/

Edited by mark poulson
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Ok guys quick question. How thick is this stuff? I photofinish most of the time need it thick enough to smooth between the foil and the body. Is that realistic of should I stick to epoxy?

I just dipped a foiled bait.  I can still feel the edge of the foil, although it isn't as sharp as before I dipped it.  Tomorrow I'll dip it again, to see how it builds.

I'll let you know how it works out.

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I just took it off the hanging wrack and put on all the hardware.

Two dips did smooth over the foil joints so that I can't feel them with my fingers.

It's only been an hour, so it still smells slightly, so I know it's not fully cured yet.

But I didn't mess it up putting on the hardware.

It's a new-for-me bait design, so I'm going to test fish it tomorrow.

If it works, I'll post it in the Hard Baits Gallery.

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I just took it off the hanging wrack and put on all the hardware.

Two dips did smooth over the foil joints so that I can't feel them with my fingers.

It's only been an hour, so it still smells slightly, so I know it's not fully cured yet.

But I didn't mess it up putting on the hardware.

It's a new-for-me bait design, so I'm going to test fish it tomorrow.

If it works, I'll post it in the Hard Baits Gallery.

Thanks alot Mark, I have never wanted to be in California but it is all I can think about right now.

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foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

I have never painted over it so I can't tell you.

 

I dip the whole bait including the bill.

I feel your cold!  It rained here this morning, more of a shower, and then the sun came out, so I was able to dip two more cranks outside. 

 

I do the same, and have never tried painting over it, either.

Here's the foiled bait.  You can see the joints and wrinkles, but they feel smooth.

I have only dragged a coated bill over some rocks on one trip so far.  I'll try and abuse one tomorrow, so we can all see if it holds.

When I tried that with a urethane, it peeled, but Solarez has held up fine.

If the AC1315 holds up, holy crow!

 

A note of warning.  Even though I dipped outside, I didn't turn the fan on inside when I hung two baits to cure (lazy and complacent), and I feel the fumes from the AC1315 now in my eyes.  Weird, but I know eyes can absorb chemicals, too, so be sure and use good ventilation blowing out from behind you.

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

foiled sinking jerkbait 3.jpg

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Edited by mark poulson
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Has anyone tried to see if this stuff reacts to plastic/rubber? I read through the posts but didn't see anything on this.

 

I know the other concrete sealers I have tried do react to plastic worms and such so i can't really use them as a top coat.

 

 

No problem at all.  The crank is fine, and so is the worm.

 

Letting the bait cure a day worked wonders for my S waver copy.  I fished it with no damage or hook rash.

 

My test was just the opposite, used a zoom worm on a rat lure coated with ac1315. Pulled the bait out of the tackle box to find a large line across the side where the concrete sealer had been eaten through by the worm laying across it (worm was fine). Tryed other brands, same problem. The lure was even cured in a warm room for over a week before the tail was added. What in the world causes this?

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AC1315 has xzylene in it which is corrosive to plastic.  The xzylene evaparates as it is cured.  If your baits are not cured it will eat through plastic.  If your baits are cured then it will not eat through the plastic.  There are several guys here locally that us it and none of us have had a problem.  One of the plastic baits I used for my test was a zoom fat albert grub and I had no problems.  My baits hang for a week and a half before they get hooks.  Hope this helps.

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AC1315 has xzylene in it which is corrosive to plastic.  The xzylene evaparates as it is cured.  If your baits are not cured it will eat through plastic.  If your baits are cured then it will not eat through the plastic.  There are several guys here locally that us it and none of us have had a problem.  One of the plastic baits I used for my test was a zoom fat albert grub and I had no problems.  My baits hang for a week and a half before they get hooks.  Hope this helps.

Good to know! I was certainly disappointed when I first saw the damage. I'll be re-sanding and re-clearing the bait; will try the heating method this time around to help ensure a full cure before contact with soft plastics. As for the wrinkling some are having, I found that heating the bait AND container of sealer to just above room temperature (75-80 degrees) with the heat gun, before dipping, solved the issue for me. Heat setting thin layers of paint was also key, as well as several blasts of heat after painting is complete, every 5 minutes or so for about 30 minutes before dipping.

Edited by TOPFLiTE1994
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I just checked the bill on the AC1315 dipped wiggle wart that I fished hard Saturday.  The coating on the bill held up fine.  I couldn't even see marks from where it ground on the rocks.

If I had dipped the same lure in the urethane I've used it would have peeled.  Been there, done that.

So I'll continue to coat the entire lure when I dip, until I begin to have failures.

I do think heat setting the AC1315 really is the key, because it gets the solvent out of the entire layer before the top of the coating skins over, and traps solvent, slowing the curing process. That, and hanging the baits in front of a work light to keep them warm as they cure.

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