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Nathan

Ac1315 Concrete Sealer Top Coat

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I only use water based air brush paints, so this is from that perspective.

I find that the only wrinkling I've experienced was with Wicked White, as both a base coat and in a bone color mix.  I think it may have something to do with the fact that Wicked White has some solvent in it, and it is also very heavily pigmented.  If I put it on too thick, I think it skins over too quickly and traps some of it's own solvent, so it's never really set.

I don't have that problem with regular water based air brush colors.

If you're using water based paints, thin coats and heat drying each coat is really important.  A thick coat will be soft, and the AC1315 can soak into it before it's solvents flash off.

I haven't tried using it on solvent based paints, so, if that's what you use, that may be a problem.  I would try shooting a clear coat of transparent Createx over it first, to act as a barrier, so the solvent can't penetrate before it flashes off.

Do some tests on scrap to figure out what works for your painting process.

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Been painting for a few years and I have cleared my lures with epoxy. I just got some AC1315 and the first baits I cleared with it wrinkled the paint pretty bad. What can I do to keep that from happening. Thanks.

I had the same problem. Like Mark said, make sure each coat of paint is heat set and then shoot createx gloss coat on and heat set. I then heat the lure with a heat gun, dip quickly  and hit again with the heat gun. I'm sure the cool temps have something to do with it as the solvent is slow to flash off. 

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All the baits I dipped look great. I dipped some when it was below freezing and let them hang in the cold and I had no issues. I gave the lures a day so the paint could dry completely before I dipped them.

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I wonder if the solvent in the AC1315 plays nice with lacquer paint. Even though it's not as bad as some other finishes, it still has some nasty solvent in it. I always dip and hang outside, if possible, because of the fumes.

Do a test on something before you ruin a lure.

i just diped my first bait and wow. I painted this bait a few monts ago and diped yesterday and it still looked great last night so maybe I won't have any problems with the laquer paint reacting.
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I've been using 1315 and EagleSupreme side by side for several months now.  With either one I'm getting good results.  First thing I learned when using these products is to make sure the paint is dry.  My first few dips wrinkled and it ruined the patterns (not so good to see all that work go up in fumes).  So after lots of trial and error (and advise from TU folks)  I found that drying each coat of paint with a heatgun on low was necessary.  Even doing that I had some patterns that wrinkled (usually white or pearl white).  So I found an old food dehydrator, in good shape, and started hanging finished paint patterns in it @ 95+ degrees, for several days.  Once the paint wasn't tacky to the touch they were ready.  I use medical forceps to hold the lure by the tail hook hanger and dip them into  a fruitjar full of sealer, making sure to cover the entire bait but not soaking it...just in and out once.  Shaking the excess off the lure with a few quick flicks after it dripped over the sealer jar seemed to help....not too long...the stuff sets quickly.  Put a stiff wire hook hanger thru the line tie and another smaller one, about an inch or two long (I made mine from floral wire), thru the tail hook hanger to wick any excess off the tail of the lure.  I hang mine back in the dehydrator and crank it up to about 115 degrees.  The stuff dries quickly and doesn't  craze or wrinkle.  After 30 minutes its dry to the touch and ready for another dip.  After three or four dips and several hours baking the stuff is rock hard and has a good shine to it.  Of the two sealers I prefer 1315 because its a little thicker and requires fewer dips for a good finish (two usually makes a good finish...three or four with Eagle).  Also like the fact I can dip an old scratched up lure into this stuff and it comes out looking new.  :twocents:  Thanks to the TU folks for some great advise on this subject :yay:

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I think I put some of my paint on too thick. Should I just wait a few hours with A heat lamp on it to let it dry and then try it? Or just go with epoxy

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I would heat it really well, several times during the course of a day, let it hang overnight in front of a light, and then dip it.

If it still wrinkles, you'll know it was the thick coat, and will do thinner coats, really well dried, in the future.  I learned that the hard way.

I've found that Wicked White seems to be a problem for me unless I really heat set/dry it.  It just goes on thicker, even if I try and do thinner coats, so I am really careful to dry it out completely before I begin my painting.

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What I have done recently with great success is dip the bait then blow dry it immediately to heat up and knock the excess ac1315 off the bait. To me it seems to leave a very fine cost on the outer layer of paint which keeps it from wrinkling. Then in 20 minutes dip again and let hang.

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Give the testors airbrush paints a try. Thier black and white sprays like a dream straight out of the bottle. No wrinkling with as 1315 either. Available @michaels. I no longer use wicked black or white. Thier pearls are killer too

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This concrete sealer does cause felt marker marks to run.  It does pretty good with well dried paint, but, again, my "sharpie" brand felt marker spots on my lure did run after I dipped. I used the sharpie marker to put spots on my wooden lures over the spray paint I used, and the felt marker ink did run.

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I've found using my hair dryer to heat set/dry my sharpie shad dots and accents helps cut down on running, but the best way is to spray a coat of Createx clear gloss over them before you dip.

I've been double crossed, too.  I added red sharpie for gill accents, and then dipped and hung the lure by the line tie, hoping the sharpie would run a little down the side, like real bleeding gills, but, of course, this time it decided not to run.  

It must have been the moon phase!  Hahaha

But, in general, sharpies will run, and should be well dried and, if possible, protected with a coat of clear before dipping.

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I will paint 20 or 30 blanks at a time with white base coat and put them in the hotbox to cure so I always have "cured"white. then as I need them I paint my patterns. this seems to help with the wrinkle more than anything. but, I will say I have had some instances where I had to do a bait I didn't have a pre- base coated blank done and the testors white and pearl white never wrinkled. not sure why but it works for me so far- I think the testors paints have some solvent in them that allows them to dry better with a heat gun between coats-

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I heard wicked white wrinkles. I found that I get wrinkles when painting over sealed wooden baits more than plastic.

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These r my first built lures. Dipped once in AC 1315, air dried for few hours. Paint pen ran. Next time i will cover writing w nail polish clear coat before dipping. This clear coat not as "shinny" as epoxy coat?

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It usually only takes about an hour to dry so I do like an hour and a half between dips just to be safe but I've done an hour between with the same results.

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My first dip I hit with a hair dryer to just give a quick thin coat. It seems to help with wrinkles. After about 20-30 minutes I will dip again. Wait 30 minutes and dip the last time. Let hang over night to gas and let the smell good away. Hooks and ready to fish in morning.

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