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Ichthus

S Waver Action

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I cut mine on a table saw. I draw or trace the shape of the lure onto the wood. Then mark where I want the joint. Then cut almost half way through, flip it over, run it on the other side.  The bait stays whole, then I finish the cuts after I finish shaping. That way, there always even and exactly the same. 

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I cut mine on a table saw. I draw or trace the shape of the lure onto the wood. Then mark where I want the joint. Then cut almost half way through, flip it over, run it on the other side.  The bait stays whole, then I finish the cuts after I finish shaping. That way, there always even and exactly the same. 

 

I do the same with my PVC swimbaits if I'm making a bunch of baits and joints.  For one bait, I use a dovetail saw, and cut them by hand while the blank is still rectangular.  If you use a try square to mark the joint lines on both sides and the top and bottom, and then mark the angles of the joint on top and bottom, using a centerline to be sure they're symetrical, it's not hard to do.  I find I have much more control with a sharp, fine handsaw, and the kerf is so thin I can easily use an exacto knife to finish the joint after shaping.

Once the joints have been cut apart, you can deepen the V on the leading edge of the following section as you need to with a sander to get more clearance and movement in the joint.

I posted a "4 hours of sleep", run on description of how I made my successful glider on the Hard Baits forum.

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/13859-7-s-waver-copy-glide-bait/

Edited by mark poulson
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So I was experimenting with one of the bodies I made and made one where the head section was the shortest section. weighed it so both sections sank equally. It was actually kindof interesting, it reminded me more of a tadpole swimming. maybe I'll save it for when my local ponds are filled with an abundance of those. LOL


im talking about bullfrog tadpoles of course. 

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So I was experimenting with one of the bodies I made and made one where the head section was the shortest section. weighed it so both sections sank equally. It was actually kindof interesting, it reminded me more of a tadpole swimming. maybe I'll save it for when my local ponds are filled with an abundance of those. LOL

im talking about bullfrog tadpoles of course. 

 

Soon as it warmed up I'd say to heck with building baits. I'd be down there at the pond catching bullfrogs so I could fry up some frog legs. As Homer Simpson would say..........aarrrggggggggggggghhhh bullfrog legs :drool:

 

Ben

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Soon as it warmed up I'd say to heck with building baits. I'd be down there at the pond catching bullfrogs so I could fry up some frog legs. As Homer Simpson would say..........aarrrggggggggggggghhhh bullfrog legs :drool:

 

Ben

Hahaha

Kermit, beware!!!

 

Ichthus,

Does that bait swim in a S pattern, like the original S Waver?

I'm interested to know how body section length and ratio affects bait motion.

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I looked at the thickness of the bait at the place I wanted to put a joint, and figured out how much lure material I wanted left in front of the pin.  Then I added enough for the thickness of the screw eye, and a little for hinge clearance, and made the angle of my hinge joint enough to have that much material on my male end, where the pin is located.

If you've cut your joint, and, when you go to drill for you pin, you find you have to move it past the joint cut in order to have enough material to be strong, you can steepen the angle of you male joint faces until it passes the pin point.

I find the easiest way for me is to cut the joint, drill for the pin with the proper angle+-, add my screw eyes to the female part, and then cut my hinge slots with a band saw until they are deep enough for the eyes to move freely.  I used a band saw because I could make cuts that were tighter than drilling, so there isn't as much vertical movement in the joint.

Once that's done, the band saw slots show me how much steeper I need to make the joint face so the slot is still in the joint, and not on the face of the lure.

If you look at the pictures I posted on the first page of this thread, you'll see two store bought S Wavers, plus my own version.  The slots in mine reach the edge of the joint face.  I did steepen the joint face until the slots were totally in the joint.  

It's purely an aesthetic thing for me.  I don't think the fish care.

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That is a well thought-out system.  

I know the line-thru concept has been around for a while, but they have really stepped it up a notch with their beautiful baits.

I don't think I'd be feeding any of those baits to a fish with those teeth!  As it is, when stripers eat a soft trout lure they tear it up pretty badly.  I can't imagine what I'd get back from a big pike.  Probably just a bloody stump.  Hahaha

Edited by mark poulson
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