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fishnart

As A Follow Up To Why Does My Paint Yellow...

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I did a search before I asked but it didn't yield anything. I'm sure its been talked about?? Can you guys explain the difference between Devcon and Flexcoat? How are these two different? I might want to change over from Devcon to try it???? Thanks in advance.

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Some professional painters use FC. I am not a fan of it because it feels rubbery and kinda sticky to me. I think it has a flex additive in it to keep it from being rock hard. Just like car clears on fiberglass bumpers. I feel that it does protect well enough. Give it a try... you might like it. But, I have used devcon for 15 yrs. and have never had a complaint.

 

Skeeter

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Flex Coat is more commonly used by custom rod makers as a clear coat over rod wraps.  It is designed to never yellow (have a rod that I did with it that is over 25 years old and it is still clear and colorless).  If properly mixed, it does not feel sticky when cured, but rubbery, well, kind of.  It is designed to flex on rods over and over and over, so it has to be.  It is clear, absolutely, and colorless.

 

Epoxies, and Devcon is one of the best, are not designed to flex, or stay clear, or even protect paint jobs.  The fact that we have found that it works so well is really lucky.

 

Lure making is a funny thing.  We take a lot of different materials that were never intended to catch fish and make them work better then the commercial box houses do it.  That is a testament to the skill and talent of the guys on this site.  But, when it comes to clear coats, the number of threads that discuss the different options indicate we still have not found "THE" best coat.

 

I use DT2 on some lures, I use Solerez on some, and I have some testing material from Alumilite that is UV cure.  Given the options, I prefer the Alumilite, but for some reason, they have not put it into production yet.  I use Solerez on some that I need a fast cure on but don't need real clear or glossy.  I use Dt2 on most lures.  I save my Alumilite UV cure for the very best lures.

 

Why don't I use flexcoat?  I it expensive.  LOL  Beside that, I think it scratches easier then the rest if it bounces of rocks or suffers from hook rash problems.

 

Still, give it a try.  All of us prefer different things, and clients prefer different things as well.

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Flexcoat has not had a lot of play here on TU though it has been used by at least one experienced custom builder (benton b )in its UV version.  I use it on rod guides but have always used D2T on crankbaits.  Other guys like to use different epoxies - there are lots of choices and most slow cure epoxies will work one way or another.  Another popular epoxy is Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) which is a bar top epoxy that comes thinned with solvent and cures much more slowly and usually needs to be applied in several coats.  If your big concern is yellowing, I think there are really only a few alternatives.  1) measure and mix properly to delay the problem arising.  2) try an epoxy that has UV filters but expect to pay more for it  3) try a different type clearcoat like a moisture cured urethane (e.g. Dick Nite), an automotive clearcoat, a high solids solvent based concrete sealer, or a UV cured polyester finish like Solarez.  Besides epoxy, I've heard it said that any finish product that ends in "thane" will eventually yellow from UV exposure given enough time.

 

Every clearcoat has advantages and disadvantages.  You have to decide the issue based on your own likes/dislikes/budget/experience.  For me, durability, a reliable esthetic appearance, and ease of use are important.  I've tried many of the options and D2T is still my favorite for wood crankbaits.  I have different favorites for plastic crankbaits, etc, and I try most of the "latest-greatest" ideas that come out on TU for clearcoats.  But D2T still holds up.  JMHO

Edited by BobP

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Envirotex EX-74...goes on like regular envirotex and has a UV blocker to prevent yellowing. I've been using it for years. No yellowing, and you get a wonderful hard, tough finish. It ended my quest for the best clearcoat. I know, I know, everyone has their favorites, I'm just sayin it works.

Devcon 2 ton will yellow. A lot of guys who love it don't like to hear that (which is one of several big reason why I don't normally participate in clearcoat threads.) When I used and loved D2ton, I refused to believe it too, but a few years later, you look at your Devcon baits and you can no longer deny it. And the stuff is truly easier to use in a lot of ways.

Now I know yellowing doesn't bother everyone and I know the stuff is great to work with, but if you decide at some point you no longer want to compromise the colors you chose for a bait you built from scratch, you have to make a decision and move away slowly from the Devcon with your hands up.

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Fatfingers makes some of the most beautiful baits, including the topcoat, of any TU builder so I for one wouldn't dream of arguing his choices.  I think in the end it boils down to how much trouble a builder is willing to go to in order to attain a specific result.  Multiple coats of very slow curing epoxy are just not for me as a hobby builder.  If I built large musky baits I'd probably have a different opinion.

 

Guys who weren't around a few years ago for TU's Devcon vs ETEX Epoxy War missed some really "spirited exchanges" on this topic.  Been there, done that, got the T-shirt, and I think it was a draw.

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Guys thanks to each and every one of you for taking the time to reply with such great information, I so appreciate it. I have some baits that are several yrs old that haven't yellowed and only a few that have. And I would agree with you that say there are pluses and minuses for each. You really helped me, thanks again

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