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Husky

I Read about a plastic sealer...

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I did get it to work, just not the clear plastic. I have some that was sort of clear when it dried it was hazy. :cry: I did get it on with out killing my paint job. So at a topcoat it is a no go. It works faster then the Styrofoam and 100% stronger.

I am not going to give up that easy. I am going to keep looking and working at it. I will let you know if I find some thing.

-Corey

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Why go to such trouble? Chemicals, plastics, styrofoam? Geeez! Buy a can of bullseye shellac/sealer, spray it on, wait ten minutes, paint, two coats of etex. If you have a leak after this, the bait has probably just been run over by a tank.

Jed

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Why go to such trouble? Chemicals' date=' plastics, styrofoam? Geeez! Buy a can of bullseye shellac/sealer, spray it on, wait ten minutes, paint, two coats of etex. If you have a leak after this, the bait has probably just been run over by a tank.

Jed[/quote']

This from a guy who's searching 2 Continents to find out why his glider isn't running right! :rolleyes::lol: You make a point, be remember the plastic waterproof, seals and primes and all it takes is a quick dip, once you get the hang of it.

Just another option for our bag of tricks.

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My apology Husky if I spoke out of turn. But IMHO there is a BIG difference between a wood sealer and "bait action". I can promise you that noone buying a bait or any fish chasing a bait will care how the bait is sealed. All (fish and fisherman), however, will care how it runs. I will be the first to admit that I am a "spaz" for proper lure action. Why? Because a few plugs catch 90% of the fish and resultant fisherman.

To each his own, but to me the things that matter most are function first, appearance second.

Jed

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My apology Husky if I spoke out of turn. But IMHO there is a BIG difference between a wood sealer and "bait action". I can promise you that noone buying a bait or any fish chasing a bait will care how the bait is sealed. All (fish and fisherman)' date=' however, will care how it runs. I will be the first to admit that I am a "spaz" for proper lure action. Why? Because a few plugs catch 90% of the fish and resultant fisherman.

To each his own, but to me the things that matter most are function first, appearance second.

Jed[/quote']

Jed, I spoke strictly tongue in cheek. Thanks again on the heads up on that glider. I was more taken by the waterproofing potential of the plastic than of any resulting "prettiness." I fish rocky and sandy bottoms in the salt and a "Breeched" plug will go down quicker than the Titanic and at best, getting back to your point, kill the action, which we both concede, is most important BTW, have you got that puppy running right, again.

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Well, mine has been in the jar for 4 days and there is

one big glob of soft plastic in the bottom. I stirred it

with a stick and it didn't try to stay on the stick. The

thinner is clear on top of the plastic. And stays clear

when you stir it. I used the 3 oz. Solo plastic cups

and some white eating utensils. What do I do next??

Coley

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Well' date=' mine has been in the jar for 4 days and there is

one big glob of soft plastic in the bottom. I stirred it

with a stick and it didn't try to stay on the stick. The

thinner is clear on top of the plastic. And stays clear

when you stir it. I used the 3 oz. Solo plastic cups

and some white eating utensils. What do I do next??

Coley[/quote']

I used white solo cups and in another jar, purple utensils. The solo cups melted down quicker , but took about 24 hrs to reach the proper viscosity. I did frequently shake the heck out of the jars and stirred with an old screwdriver immediately before use. Both are useable, now. If left, the plastic does settle out, but a little shaking and stirring fixes that.

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Can you post a picture of the plastic right before your ready to dip your bait??

Coley

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Can you post a picture of the plastic right before your ready to dip your bait??

Coley

I'll give it a go, tomorrow. I keep the mixture a bit thicker than whole milk by adding thinner, in small increments. The finish is transparent but the coating is smooth and even. About 3 dips and it is ready for paint even though it remains seni transparent. Hopefully, by sealing an waterproofing this way, I can keep the top coat to one coat and keep the finish strong, but thin.

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Thanks for pics. Mine looks nothing like that. Guess, I will

try another plastic. No matter how much I shake it, it just

won't mix with the thinner.

Coley

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Guys,

why bother with the forks and cups when you can get a beanbag chair and cut it open and use the pellets form them. It is the same stuff and it is already ground-up. This should make it alot easier to melt down. Hey if it works I might just give it a try!!!!!!!!!!!11

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Guys' date='

why bother with the forks and cups when you can get a beanbag chair and cut it open and use the pellets form them. It is the same stuff and it is already ground-up. This should make it alot easier to melt down. Hey if it works I might just give it a try!!!!!!!!!!!11[/quote']

5 oz White Solo cups have worked best for me. I'm done "Sperimintin." :rolleyes:

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Well, today I used 3 oz. Solo cups. I get same results.

I put the jar in my paint shaker for 30 min., nothing.

OK, lets review, We are using lacquer thinner, not Acetone

or MEK. This is driving me nuts and I didn't have far to go.

OK, Bullseye is fine, I use it on hard baits made from

hard wood. I am looking for something to seal balsa

other than Devcon, that doesn't require much sanding.

Coley

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No more, I am done fooling with the plastic. For some reason

I just can't get it to mix with the thinner. I shook my arm out

of joint today, the thinner stays clear. The plastic is very soft

in the jar. If you dip a piece of wood down into it, it rolls off

the wood, won't stick. I took some out and put it on with a putty

knife, that's not going to work either.

Coley

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No more' date=' I am done fooling with the plastic. For some reason

I just can't get it to mix with the thinner. I shook my arm out

of joint today, the thinner stays clear. The plastic is very soft

in the jar. If you dip a piece of wood down into it, it rolls off

the wood, won't stick. I took some out and put it on with a putty

knife, that's not going to work either.

Coley[/quote']

Hang in there. What is guaranteed to work is 5 oz. SOLO white cups, and a thinner that say it contains Methyl alcohol and Toulene. Just got a real nice coat on some Balsa Wood!

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Anyone tried using lexan to melt down for a clear coat?? Also If ya use the polystyrene you could prime with the white krylon fusion paint!!!

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Anyone tried using lexan to melt down for a clear coat?? Also If ya use the polystyrene you could prime with the white krylon fusion paint!!!

The thinner would ruin any paint job so melted lexan, as a clear top coat, wouldn't work. Fusion and regular Krylon work the same over the plastic. You'll be more than pleasantly surprised, Once you see how the plastic works.

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Husky :D

I read about this technique on the other site as well. Thanks for posting the information. Have you tried dipping the foam-it lures? I thought about trying it but can't take the time to experiment right now.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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Husky :D

I read about this technique on the other site as well. Thanks for posting the information. Have you tried dipping the foam-it lures? I thought about trying it but can't take the time to experiment right now.

Tight lines' date='

Shawn[/quote']

I did try it on some 16 lb density rejects I had and I found;

1. The thinner has NO ADVERSE REACTION to the Urethane foam.

2. It puts a smooth even coat on it. (No Bubbles)

3. It will Hide the seam if the area is sanded smooth.

Some here have had problems getting the ingredients right, but luckily I stumbled on to the Combination of 5 oz. SOLO WHITE CUPS and Thinner which contains METHYL ALCHOHOL and TOULENE. It works great.

Sean, Love your work.

Mike P

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Many of you have had a problem getting the plastic to disolve. It has been brought to my attention, by Tally, that it was due to the lacquer thinner being used. I guess they all "ain't" the same.

Tally wrote,

"I like many others have been pulling my hair out trying to get the right combination to disolve the plastic to seal my bait. After many trips to the store and getting cup after cup (and yes I was using lacquer thinner with the ingrediants you specified), I had enough. On the way home from work I thought about trying a stronger thinner and whopee it worked. I went to Auto Zone and bought Klean-Strip Virgin Lacquer thinner. It melted every cup I had previously purchased. Just thought I would let you know since so many have tried this without much sucess. It is the strength of the thinner, not so much the cup. Tally "

Thanks Tally

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