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I Read about a plastic sealer...
46 replies to this topic
Posted 28 July 2004 - 09:00 PM
Coley, Thats the same problem I had. There was no way that you even be able to spread the stuff with a cake spatula much less brush it on or dip anything into it.
Posted 28 July 2004 - 09:13 PM
One type of plastic that hates solvents is styrene or polystyrene. look for the recycle label on the plastic or packaging (it should be marked "6") it might also have the abbreviation "PS".
interested in everyones results.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 07:40 AM
Coley and Cheeshead,
I just looked at the plastic cuos I have that did work. They were 5 oz. Solo cups, packe 96 to a package. I did have to add thinner from time to time.
Have your globs thinned down yet?
Posted 29 July 2004 - 09:02 AM
don't sure if I've made everything right... the cups melted perfectly, I've made 3 dips (allow 6 hours to dry). After the first two layers, the coat wasn't white enough. After the third, coat was white, smooth, but... soft
Maybe I've put too many cups? Maybe it is better to put 5-6 layers of thinner coats?
Posted 29 July 2004 - 09:47 AM
Give it time to dry out, fully. FYI, If you're goint to paint them you probably can get by with just 2 coats. My guess is that the thinner in the last coat softens the undercoats but they will harden again as the thinner totally dries out. I tested on scrap and that's what happened.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 12:48 PM
I did get it to work, just not the clear plastic. I have some that was sort of clear when it dried it was hazy. I did get it on with out killing my paint job. So at a topcoat it is a no go. It works faster then the Styrofoam and 100% stronger.
I am not going to give up that easy. I am going to keep looking and working at it. I will let you know if I find some thing.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 01:47 PM
Why go to such trouble? Chemicals, plastics, styrofoam? Geeez! Buy a can of bullseye shellac/sealer, spray it on, wait ten minutes, paint, two coats of etex. If you have a leak after this, the bait has probably just been run over by a tank.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 03:08 PM
This from a guy who's searching 2 Continents to find out why his glider isn't running right! You make a point, be remember the plastic waterproof, seals and primes and all it takes is a quick dip, once you get the hang of it.
Just another option for our bag of tricks.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 06:59 PM
My apology Husky if I spoke out of turn. But IMHO there is a BIG difference between a wood sealer and "bait action". I can promise you that noone buying a bait or any fish chasing a bait will care how the bait is sealed. All (fish and fisherman), however, will care how it runs. I will be the first to admit that I am a "spaz" for proper lure action. Why? Because a few plugs catch 90% of the fish and resultant fisherman.
To each his own, but to me the things that matter most are function first, appearance second.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 07:56 PM
Jed, I spoke strictly tongue in cheek. Thanks again on the heads up on that glider. I was more taken by the waterproofing potential of the plastic than of any resulting "prettiness." I fish rocky and sandy bottoms in the salt and a "Breeched" plug will go down quicker than the Titanic and at best, getting back to your point, kill the action, which we both concede, is most important BTW, have you got that puppy running right, again.
Posted 29 July 2004 - 09:09 PM
We strive to find the best protection for our salt lures.
- - SK
Posted 31 July 2004 - 08:19 PM
Well, mine has been in the jar for 4 days and there is
one big glob of soft plastic in the bottom. I stirred it
with a stick and it didn't try to stay on the stick. The
thinner is clear on top of the plastic. And stays clear
when you stir it. I used the 3 oz. Solo plastic cups
and some white eating utensils. What do I do next??
Posted 01 August 2004 - 07:33 AM
I used white solo cups and in another jar, purple utensils. The solo cups melted down quicker , but took about 24 hrs to reach the proper viscosity. I did frequently shake the heck out of the jars and stirred with an old screwdriver immediately before use. Both are useable, now. If left, the plastic does settle out, but a little shaking and stirring fixes that.
Posted 01 August 2004 - 07:26 PM
Can you post a picture of the plastic right before your ready to dip your bait??
Posted 01 August 2004 - 08:42 PM
I'll give it a go, tomorrow. I keep the mixture a bit thicker than whole milk by adding thinner, in small increments. The finish is transparent but the coating is smooth and even. About 3 dips and it is ready for paint even though it remains seni transparent. Hopefully, by sealing an waterproofing this way, I can keep the top coat to one coat and keep the finish strong, but thin.
Posted 02 August 2004 - 08:47 AM
Posted 02 August 2004 - 09:41 AM
Thanks for pics. Mine looks nothing like that. Guess, I will
try another plastic. No matter how much I shake it, it just
won't mix with the thinner.
Posted 02 August 2004 - 10:01 AM
why bother with the forks and cups when you can get a beanbag chair and cut it open and use the pellets form them. It is the same stuff and it is already ground-up. This should make it alot easier to melt down. Hey if it works I might just give it a try!!!!!!!!!!!11
Posted 02 August 2004 - 11:00 AM
5 oz White Solo cups have worked best for me. I'm done "Sperimintin."
Posted 02 August 2004 - 07:26 PM
Well, today I used 3 oz. Solo cups. I get same results.
I put the jar in my paint shaker for 30 min., nothing.
OK, lets review, We are using lacquer thinner, not Acetone
or MEK. This is driving me nuts and I didn't have far to go.
OK, Bullseye is fine, I use it on hard baits made from
hard wood. I am looking for something to seal balsa
other than Devcon, that doesn't require much sanding.