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fishnart

Swimbaits

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Alright my little bait builder artists out there. I have a question about swimbaits. I've been repaining some swimbaits and its really hard not to get epoxy in the joints. and I hate this process. So...for those of you that build them, whats the easiest way to take them apart to paint and seal them? Can I take a tiny drill and drill where the pin goes and then take the pin out? What[s ya'lls advice on this...thanks a ton

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It's a concrete sealer someone here (I apologize, I don't remember who) suggested.

I went to their website and ordered a 4 oz. sample to play around with. 

Here's where I got the sample size, and then the quart I'm now using:

http://www.directcolors.com/product/sample-size-sprayable-satin-finish-concrete-sealer/

I decided to do a full on test right off the bat to see if it had any application or storage problems.

I tried the same dipping/drying routine I had used with SC9000 urethane successfully.

I tried dipping a bait out in front of my garage on a work bench, and letting it drip back into the container, and it was no problem.  The AC1315 didn't mess up either my heat set air brush paints, or my lure bodies, plastic or PVC.

I wiped the last drips off the bottom with my finger, and scraped that back into the container, too.

The stuff never even skinned over.

After my test bait had stopped dripping, I took it back inside the garage, and hung it over my work area.  I used a small piece of paper towel to wick the hook hangers clear, and to take the last drip off the bottom of the bait.

I let it hang for 15 minutes, and then hit it with my hair dryer on low.  After another 15 minutes, I hit it again with the hair dryer.

After an hour, it was hard enough for me to clean out the line tie and hook hanger holes, and add the split rings and trebles.

I fished the bait the next day, and it held up fine.  It didn't soften or scratch.

But I found that, on larger surfaces of my swimbaits, I needed to let it cure another day to get really hard.

It does have fumes.  I tried dipping inside, and didn't really smell them, but my eyes glowed afterward, so I only dip outside now if I can, and leave a fan blowing out of the garage when I bring baits back in to cure.  I also leave a work light shining on them overnight, to keep them warm enough to cure out properly.

This process isn't scientific, but it works for a hobby builder like me.

This stuff is easy to use, and to store.

It goes on a little thicker than the urethane I had been using, but not as thick as epoxy or Solarez.

And it goes a long way.

I would probably still be dipping in the 4 oz container, but I tipped it over outside while I was dipping (did I mention I'm clumsy?) and so I reordered, but this time the quart size.  There's a basketball sized circle on my driveway that's really shiny now.  Hahaha

Edited by mark poulson
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wow, thanks Mark for your time with that response. Man, its hard to know what to do...I like your idea but worry about the fumes and can't go outside to dip, its 10 degrees hahaha. I'm gonna look into it though...again thank you so much for taking the time to provide me with all of that info

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I wrap rubber band*s* around the joint for 2 reasons. Holds the bait strait to paint and rotate on my turner. Also helps keep any finish from getting into the hinges. I brush the finish up to the rubber bands. Cut rubber bands off and have very minimal to clean. I do not dip.

 

I get a bag of rubber bands cheap at hobby lobby or walmart.

Edited by 21xdc
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On a bait like the wake jr. I use a small ball tip die grinder and pull the pin then paint, coat, reassemble, and touch up the pin hole.  But on most other baits I stretch them out on the sewing ring or craft hoops you can buy at the craft stores.  I have even used a small roll of brake line tubing I had in my shop because I needed a larger hoop for a big glide bait.  Using a chunk of strong wire bent into a "s" shape, I rubber band it to the hoop. Then using another wire hook, I hook the tail hook hangar (or a pin if pins are used to secure a tail) and rubber band that to the other side of the hoop.  If I need more stability, I sometimes get a wire hooked into the hinge pin eyes and secure it to the hoop too.  Now the bait is stretched out and the sections will not flop around and touch at the joints but there is some flexibility so I can push it from the off side to open up the joints on the near side toward me and carefully brush in epoxy or resin in the joints.  Turn over and get the other side of the joints before you do the sides.  Now do the sides.  Clamp a stick off your bench or shelf and hang the bait by the hoop to cure/dry flipping it over occasionally and hanging it by different angles using the hoop until dry to touch.  If a little gets in the joints I can usually get something in there to clean it up or just work the bait in your hands to free it up.

Barry

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I wrap rubber band*s* around the joint for 2 reasons. Holds the bait strait to paint and rotate on my turner. Also helps keep any finish from getting into the hinges. I brush the finish up to the rubber bands. Cut rubber bands off and have very minimal to clean. I do not dip.

 

I get a bag of rubber bands cheap at hobby lobby or walmart.

+1

 

I usually paint with auto clear so i just leave the rubber bands on till dry and cut off. Works perfect!

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