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texacan84

Silicone Question

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Haven't used silicone as a mold. I've carved lures out of balsa wood with texture for open pour baits. In the past I've used plaster of paris and havent had a problem making the master, tried it with the new ones and it was a disaster, messed up a couple of lures trying to get them out and blew out the side of the plaster. I'm considering silicone to make the master molds but really dont where to turn to now, went to Advance Auto to check out the rtv they had because of the high temp it holds but was surprised at the price for a 3oz tube.

I'm wondering if their is a silicone that is close to the rtv and also if i use silicone, can you press it into it or do you lay the lure face up and build it from their.

Thanks for any advice you can give me....George

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I've used 100% GE Silicone caulk in the past.  It holds up just fine to the heat of soft plastics.

Taking my time to get the entire master well covered with a thin film first, so it gets into all the details, was a key for me.  Then I set it into my wooded mold box form, and filled the box up by pumping the caulk in with a caulking gun.  I found going slowly was a real key to getting a good mold.

I rehearsed every step in several dry runs, so I could see where the problems might arise before I began with the silcone.

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Thanks mark, im definitely going to give it a try. This may sound strange but with all my wood masters i coat them very well with clear hard as nails fingernail polish. Should i still put a thin film of silicone on the masters as well, do you smooth out the silicone as your putting it in the box?

Thanks...

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I would recommend not going that route. Sometimes the money spent to get a product designed to do what you want with great results is well worth the time spent trying to get something to work to the same level.  Plaster, Durhams, etc.. are all fine and very capable of producing quality  molds for cheap but at times RTV is just the way to go.   Choose the mold making material on the bait you are doing and it saves a lot of time.

 

Trial size Smooth On mid 20 bucks add 10 or so for shipping or the Hobby Lobby alumilite high strength 3 with coupon 15 bucks. Either will allow several molds to be made depending on size of the baits.  

 

molds.jpg

Edited by Travis
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Thank you Travis. I've noticed that it looks like you have a lot of plaster molds, and it also has a yellow tinge on top with a shiny cavity. What is it that you use to get it that way? I've also noticed that their is no build up on the side of the cavities if those are plaster, how do you get them that smooth?

Thanks for your help.... George

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Don't mean to butt in on the question to Travis, but those look exactly like my old P.O.P. molds, and I used Min-Wax brand polyurethane (which gave it that definitive yellow look - lol).  A couple coats of that stuff and the baits were mega shiny.  Only problem is you have to wait a good week for them to dry before pouring hot plastic in them.  Also, they're good for about a thousand pours (if you're lucky) before you have to re-coat them. 

 

I apologize if Travis isn't using poly, but man do those ever look familiar! 

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I have used poly and some of those are sealed with them (the craw mold on top right) but most of the solid yellow ones are Durham's rock puddy molds and are sealed with multiple thinned coats of Devcon.

 

I cast most of the molds in smooth walled containers or mold boxes lined with shipping tape.

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