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Foam-It vs Feather lite

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#1 vytautas



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Posted 28 July 2004 - 09:10 AM

Hello fellows,
Have some questions again :)
I am sick and tired to try again and again to seal those damned seams on the back and belly of my lures :( so I took a Salmo crankbait and cut it in pieces. What I?ve discovered, that it?s made from kind of Foam-it like plastic. Difference is that Foam-it has big pores, and the Salmo lure tinny ones. So I am wondering maybe they use Feather Lite? Will post the photos tomorrow.
Another question ? it is possible to put a white pigment in Feather Lite?
And another ? have anyone of you tried to mold lips from Crystal Clear (Smooth-on, clear liquid plastic) ?

P.S. I?ve promised to post the instructions on making epoxy molds :) I will do that as soon as I will be making them (this week)

#2 vytautas



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Posted 29 July 2004 - 02:44 AM

here is the pictures of my bait, made of Foam-It and Salmo, made of ???

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#3 Art Brush

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 03:24 AM


I don't have any Foam-it photos but here's what I've got for featherlite... In comparing the reactions as the materials react.

Foam-it 5 had a fast reaction. The 2 parts are quickly mixed and within seconds the foaming reaction started. It does expand alot so you dont have to use much. It does however have highly adhesive properties which will wear out silicone molds quickly. .. looking forward to seeing your 2 part resin molds

Featherlite has a slower reaction time and doesn't expand near as much as the Foam-it 5. The seamline is wafer thin and can be brushed off with your hand. Hardly any sanding is needed on the seam. It's use also has some draw backs due to it's sensitivity to temperature and pin holes.

Here's a few scans that might help. If your screen resolution is 800x600 the lure is actual size.

The topwater lure photo is from a 2 part mold. I filled one half with featherlite, allowed it to cure.. then sanded it flat to the half line. The skin is pretty solid with a few pin holes. The fill area has bubbles that resemble a Nestle' crunch candy bar. Room temperature effects the bubble size. The warmer the room the larger the bubbles. I recommend working in temperature range of 72 - 75 f 22 - 23 c

The hollow diving lure photo shows a casting made from a 4 part squish mold. The arrow points to an expansion port that has been trimmed. The featherlite is tough enough that the excess can be broken off without affecting the outer surface. The closeup shows the undesireable pin holes. With light sanding some will fill in. More of the pin hole disapear from basecoating. Any stubburn pin holes can be dabbed with a toothpick while the basecoat is still wet.

is possible to put a white pigment in Feather Lite?

I've tried basecoating the mold cavity before casting and got reverse gas bubbles on the surface. I'll post a pic tomorow.

I have heard that you can brush a layer of talcom powder inside the mold cavity and they will come out ready to paint. The talcom is absorbed by the plastic and is supposed to produce a ready to paint surface. I have yet to try it.

I'm not sure if that's featherlite Salmo is using or a less dense foam. They could also be using cnc aluminum molds bolted together. That'd stop puffy seams.

Tight Lines,


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#4 Hilton



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Posted 10 November 2004 - 07:10 AM

Hi guys;

I found that if you spray some automotive PU primmer (PPG D803) to the mold before pouring the foam, you will end up with a very smooth surface and no bubbles. It also helps to put some PU primmer along the edge seals of the mold without thinning and with a brush.
I?m using structural 16 lb. foam .