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Polyurethane Vs Epoxy ?

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Epoxy is hart to beat for cost and durability. It does have some short comings tho like weight, clarity, discoloration, can peel if/when chipped and coverage on sharp edges. That said i still have lures from 5 years ago when i first started this addiction....err hobby and they still are performing well today. 

 

That said every TC has its own set of short falls. You need to find what works for your needs. Personally I did not like Polyurethane. I think it is one of the least durable but it is easy and cheap. For easy dipping and use concrete sealers seem to work good but most i have tried react to plastic.

 

I think MCU is the best but storage issues keep me from buying it.

Edited by Matt Moreau
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I think we all tend to over-think topcoats.  There is no perfect topcoat and no crankbait is eternal - that's just not in the cards.  Choose one, or even two if it makes you feel better, and have at it.  I like epoxy.  I like MCU.  I like concrete sealer and UV cured polyester for some applications.  They all have different qualities that can suit a particular bait build in regard to how I want them to perform, how I want them to look, and how I want to build crankbaits.  The nice thing is there is an array of choices.  The bad thing is you can screw up until you find the pitfalls inherent in each choice.  Combine choices?  Expect more pitfalls.  JMHO  

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Some times I use this site to purchase some bait materials, the site is called Salty's and he has a product called Saltys super coat I was wondering if any one here has used it. It say's you can deep or spray, but I think is lacquer base clear coat  Here the site  www.saltwaterplugs.com

 

Gino

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Hope this isn't straying too far off topic, but it's something I've wondered about. Does water temperature play a role in anyone's choice of top coat? I know that epoxy can get fairly hard and I'm wondering if the colder temps folks up north fish in can make epoxy brittle enough to be more prone to cracking than other top coat choices when banged off something hard like a stump or rip rap?

 

As far as my choices for top coats I've whittled it down to two and those are DN S81 and BS 30 minute epoxy. Like most others I've tried numerous sealers and top coats and of everything I've tried those two have given me the best finish with the least amount of trouble. That is since I learned how to store the DN.

 

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy
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Glue-type epoxies, like D2T, will become more brittle in cold water.  Decoupage epoxies are designed for movement with temperature variations, so they will remain more flexible in cold water.

 

As more and more exterior acrylic coatings become available, there will be more choices for lure top coating.  

Better?  Only if it fits your style of lure building, and you can make it work for you.

Edited by mark poulson
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I don't have anything negative to say yet about E-tex in colder 35 degree water.  Overall I'm really satisfied with the product.  I've had it chip of on rocks in warmer months but that's to be expected.

 

I want to try this out anyways.  Can  anybody recommend a good polyurathane available in quart size?  I'll be applying it under e-tex as the initial topcoat and over it as the final topcoat on 2 seperate identical lures.

 

Thanks

s56

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Hope this isn't straying too far off topic, but it's something I've wondered about. Does water temperature play a role in anyone's choice of top coat? I know that epoxy can get fairly hard and I'm wondering if the colder temps folks up north fish in can make epoxy brittle enough to be more prone to cracking than other top coat choices when banged off something hard like a stump or rip rap?

 

As far as my choices for top coats I've whittled it down to two and those are DN S81 and BS 30 minute epoxy. Like most others I've tried numerous sealers and top coats and of everything I've tried those two have given me the best finish with the least amount of trouble. That is since I learned how to store the DN.

 

Ben

 

Ben, I have not run into any issues with temperature up here in Wisconsin with top coats. I have fished mine in 0 degree weather when the water is right around freezing and hasnt played any adverse effects with cracking or chipping.

 

I actually have a boat load of different top coats depending on the bait. For more weight sensitive Etex, MCU, or AC1315. Etex for most of my normal baits, and Devcon for toothy critters, although MCU does hold up well due to it having some give (less chipping)

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Mowhawkman, I've read several posts here on TU that expressed frustration with the product - usually that they couldn't get it to harden on a crankbait.  Why that is, I don't know.  If SLT785 is having success with it, perhaps he can give you some tips.  But there are always posts here on TU about an array of other topcoat products that are very reliable and durable.

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CS seal coat is paint stripper in my opinion have not had very much success with it myself. I do use it on some cork poppers I make but in thin coats with long drying times between coats. These are poppers for fly fishing and I don't mind a little color bleed on them

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