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Stencil Plastic

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Do you want to make vacuum formed stencils or just flat stencils? I have used those plastic folders I get them at the dollar store in a pack of assorted colors and use my modified wood burner or exacto knife to cut them out, if your looking to vacuum form stencils this is what I have been doing, I use the plastic from packages that have something vacuum sealed in it already, kids toys are a great source, I got some good size pieces from some dolls that my grandaughter got for xmas you dont need a very big piece to make a lure stencil and the plastic is free all you have to do is cut them out now I find myself looking at people's garbage to see if there is any in their garbage that I can use, I use clay to make the molds to hold the lure 1/2 way on both sides when vacuum forming the stencils and it works fine once you do a few and get used to how hot to get the plastic is the hardest part once you get that figured out its a breeze to make them having a helper doesnt hurt either good luck

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I get my stencil material from Hobby Lobby. I get the plastic sheet for making quilt templates in the sewing department. It works well for my baits. I think its $3.00 for a 12x16 peice.

 

Dakota Lakes Tackle has a great video on vacuum formed stencils on you tube.

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I use Frisket Material, which is a thin adhesive polyethylene sheet backed with paper.  It comes in a roll that's about 12" wide for artists to use as stencil material.  You can bend it easily and cut it with an Xacto knife.  I leave the paper backing on the stencils so I can just flip them over and use them for both sides of baits.  A roll of frisket is fairly inexpensive and gives you a bunch of material - my roll is a virtual lifetime supply because I re-use my stencils. Now I have a library of 25-30 stencils that I use on various baits, for various patterns.  Check the online artist supply shops like Dixie Art.

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I use PETG thermoplastic.  I made a cheap vacuum sealer out of a 5 gallon bucket and a shop vac.  Heat the plastic up with a heat gun gently and flip on the vacuum.  Works pretty decent.  The PETG plastic can be picked up off of ebay.  I use the .030 thickness, but it is a bit tougher to cut than a .020, but it should last longer.  It can be pricey so shop around on ebay.  There are plenty of sellers on there.

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Most people I've watched or read used .020 PETG. I watched one video where the guy cut out his box using a CNC machine, the top was a frame which held the PETG securely in place. He heated his plastic in the frame laying on an old electric skillet till it sagged. I've heard of using picture frames also.

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It all depends on what kind of stencil I'm making. I have grown to like using the flexible foam sheets at Michael's. It looks abou the size of a sheet of notebook paper and is probably  1/16" thick. Very easy to cut with an X-acto knife and it won't scratch the paint at all. You just have to be more careful about lining it the same on each side. I do all my gill work and some of the craw patterns I do with it as well. You can wrap it all the way around the bait and shadow in craw lines on both sides at once. I'll take a few pics of what I'm talking about tonight and post them in the gallery. I suck at trying to explain stuff...LOL

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Hey Joe,

 

Do you have a link to the flexible foam?

 

thanks,

 

Ben

I just tried a Google search and a dozen different things that could be it came up but i hate to post a link to the wrong stuff. I need some more of it anyways so I'll grab some on my lunch break and post a pic and the name of the exact stuff I use. It's pretty handy stuff for certain patterns.......

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Could it be the same foam guys use for tying flys that comes in all different colors for like making chernobyl ants and grasshoppers.  if so you can buy a whole pack of it at walmart pretty cheap. I have a  whole drawer full in my fly tying desk i think i might try this, let ya know how it works out. thanks!!!!

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Using this thicker stencil material can help get soft lines. An example is the gill on the 8.0 I posted. I used this for the gill stencil and never move it to get the white bottom layer and top light blue layer. If you hold the airbrush on an angle and spray across the stencil for the blue portion of the gill it will give you that soft line instead of a crisp line like when you spray directly straight at the lure/stencil. You can do this in multiple layers to get some nice and smooth cool lines.

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