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Nathan

Kbs Diamond Top Coat

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HI everyone, I would like to say thanks for all the info you guys share this site has made it fun to learn and try new things. my question is I am thinking about ordering some kbs do I need to use bloxygen along with the #1 thinner. and for those of you using it. what is the shelf life of this product compared to dick nite .

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top dawg, I wouldn't waste money on the bloxygen, but, the thinner is almost a must. You can use common lacquer thinner to clean/soak your brush or clean your airbrush, but, I wouldn't use it for thinning. I did thin it once with lacquer thinner before I knew about the recommended #1 thinner. Honestly, I could not see any difference, But.....:)

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top dawg, I wouldn't waste money on the bloxygen, but, the thinner is almost a must. You can use common lacquer thinner to clean/soak your brush or clean your airbrush, but, I wouldn't use it for thinning. I did thin it once with lacquer thinner before I knew about the recommended #1 thinner. Honestly, I could not see any difference, But..... :)

 

Has anyone read the safety data sheet on the #1 thinner? It should tell you what's in it.

 

Ben

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They don't market their product for fishing lures... The thinner they sell may work better for their bulk sales. For my specific application, I was told to buy Zylene/Zylol to slow the cure down and reduce bubbles. They said that they have a guy that makes custom pool sticks and uses this combo with awesome results... I bought a qt of Zylene for $10 or less local.

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I have been following this thread due to I am interested in dipping and turning a bait vice mixing e-tex or some other epoxy product. I see that some people having problem with air bubbles or bubbles, I wonder if the problem is due to maybe the bait not being sealed properly. The reason I am saying this is because when I first started making and clear coating baits I had a terrible time with air bubbles and I finally figured out the problem, at least with my baits, the problem was that I was not doing a good job on sealing my baits. I am going to try KBS Diamond clear when I run out of e-tex and Devcon2 ton, I love the idea to just dip, let it drip than turn, my two cents

 

Gino

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Gino,  I've had the most problem with bubbles in MCU when I dipped and put the baits on a lure turner.  I solved it by just dipping and hanging them up so any excess MCU dripped off the tail.  Along with others, I think the bubbling problem is caused when the MCU begins to cure and expels CO2.  If the coating is too thick, the CO2 can't escape the surface of the MCU before it begins to skin over, which happens very quickly.

 

I don't know what to make of the opinions here on TU that KBS is "friendlier" because you can dip baits in it without the stuff beginning to cure in the can.  I've tried several brands of MCU and they all had that storage problem when used to dip lures - so I remain skeptical. 

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In response to Bob's comment on KBS.....

 

I never meant to insinuate that KBS doesn't set up in the container because, as Bob pointed out, it's a moisture cure urethane and that's what they do. I can, without reservation, say that, of the MCU's that I've used, KBS is more user friendly in that it doesn't set up prematurely as quick as the others. I couldn't stand it....I bought a quart of Dick Nite back when it was solely the talk-of-the-town. I was shocked at how fast I lost that quart of finish. So then I tried a product called Garco thinking it couldn't possibly be as bad as DN. I don't know that I got 20 lures finished before the stuff stiffened in the jar. In just a matter of a day or so after I noticed it...it was solid in the container. I basically swore off of MCU's after that and went back to my automotive finish....until I came across KBS. A buddy had already tried it and recommended it to me as "the real deal". I have found it to be just that. It will set up in the container, but, not nearly at the rate of the others. I'm thoroughly convinced of that because I've given it every opportunity.

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I just started dipping some baits and have been opening the can a lot more than usual. I may start using bloxygen. I have been brushing my baits as they mostly have been jointed. Bloxygen can also be replaced with "wine preserver" such as private preserve or similar... It's just inert gas and can probably be found locally for most cheaper and no shipping.  I have not seen any thickening yet.

 

I suggest that if your really interested, Please read all 56 reviews on the KBS web site. Many lure builders on there.

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Joe, I think if you're careful about handling and storage, a quart can of DN, and probably KBS, will last more than 6 months.  When I dipped in DN, a quart lasted about 8 months in salsa jars with restricted neck and spraying Bloxygen finish preserver in the jar after each use.  That was without adding any thinner to the jar.  It also matters how you dip baits - a quick dip and then letting the excess drip off onto a newspaper and not back into the jar is a good thing.  Ambient humidity is also a factor, which we usually can't control.  Another factor is how often and how many baits you topcoat.  I was building batches of 4-6 baits every two weeks, dipping once, and eventually lost about half of my DN.  The sooner you use it, the better.  But a quart of MCU lasts a long time since it yields a pretty thin coating.  Bottom line is that while guys can tell you their experience with MCU, your experience will vary depending on exactly how you use and store it.

 

21XDC - I tried aerosol wine preserver on a quart of Garco MCU.  The preserver was mostly CO2 and nitrogen and my MCU began to gel almost immediately.  I came away feeling that Bloxygen (nitrogen + argon) worked and the wine preserver did not.  Your mileage may differ, of course!

Edited by BobP
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Good to know.. I have not bought either gas... I was told they have the same ingredients. I guess I was told wrong. But it does the same thing, blocking oxygen from getting to the wine with a layer of gas that is heavier than air. Maybe different wine preservers are different.

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