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JRammit

Bond Coat

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Spike-it has this bond coat that sounds like what i need... Making laminates by hand pouring the belly, then injecting the top... Belly cools while i fumble clamping the mold, then colors split apart when i try to put on hook... Problem is, 4 oz bottle is $8, but shipping is $16..... Anybody use this stuff? Is it worth $24 for a $8 bottle??

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I have some. But remember it has to dry before reshooting them. And I think it is water based so it takes awhile. But when done it will not peel off. You might call Bruce and ask if they can put it in the mail for you just to save a few bucks. Shipping has never been a profit center for them but ups can be a pain most of the time.

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I fill the belly of my two piece Ika body molds with one color, and then put them together and add the second color, all hand pour.  I heat the second color to 330-335 degrees, and don't have a problem with delamination.  

I've done some three color bodies, where I do the first two colors, one over the other, in one half, and then clamp the mold together and pour the third color.  As long as the plastic is hot enough when I pour it, the colors bond.

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bruce is a great guy that works at spike it aka lure works he can help you in tons of ways very helpful and smart. the bond coat works great ive used it since they started offering it . works great if you pour a lot of baits that you cant pour really hot for both colors I use it on a couple of old school molds for my pops. Take Care n God Bless.

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They are aluminum 8 cavity fat Ika body molds I bought from someone here in the TU classifieds.

They don't have the manufs. name on them.

i haven't found I need to preheat my molds.  In fact, I want the belly color to cool enough to let me put the two halves together without it running.

I pour less than half of one side with my contrasting belly color.  If it's a two color belly, I pour one, then the other, let it sit for about 30 seconds, until it won't sag when I raise one side, and then put the two halves together and pour the last color.

I heat my plastic in NorPro silicone cups, pinch the ends with a chip clip so I have a smaller pour spout, leave my metal coat hanger stirred in the cup once it's heated, so I can stir after three cavities, and the plastic, which starts out at 330 degrees, stays hot enough to pour two 8 cavity molds.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norpro-Measure-Sir-amp-Pour-2-cup-Silicone-Measuring-NEW-/280625234787?

It bonds well enough not to come apart.  I found, from pouring three color open pour swimbaits, that it is critical to let the first pour cool enough that it won't just absorb the second color.  Having the second color hot (330) creates the bond, at least for me.

It probably also helps that the fat Ika is a lot of plastic, so the final pour doesn't cool before it bonds to the belly color.

I'm sure every mold is different, but I've done the same type of laminating with my homemade 12 cavity Plaster of Paris Ika mold, and it works, too.

Edited by mark poulson
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That explains it... Im doing 2" crappie jigs, small amount of plastic in the belly cools quick... Here i thought i just wasnt fast enough..... Oh well, i ordered my bond coat... Along with a few other things to justify the shipping costs

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I guess how long is dependent on the temperature you are using it in. I want to say 30 minutes but that is at 70 degs. If it is colder than that where you are then try getting a hair drier to speed up the process. I don't pour bellies and shoot other colors after so that is a little different from painting baits and clearing them. Mine set around for hours sometimes.

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Late update:

After some trial and error, i got the bond coat to hold the colors together great... It took a generous coating and over an hour of dry time before shooting the second color

Anyone who fishes crappie knows how fast you go through baits... Even in a 4 cavity mold, this is insufficient.. It would take longer to make them than it will to lose them

I think this stuff would be great for other applications... But not this one

Edited by JRammit
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