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cadman

3 Oz + Ultra-Minnow Jig

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Ok guys, I will be pouring several hundred of these this weekend. I normally don't pour anything this big, as 1 oz is usually the biggest in such volume. Any good pointers from you guys that do this regularly.

 

I have a Lee IV bottom pour pot that I was going to start with. Good or bad idea?????

 

I also was planning on ladle pouring if all else fails. This might be faster, than waiting for the cavity to fill up from the bottom pour. Let me know your thoughts, ideas and anything else. Thanks in advance.

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I use 6/0 for the 3 and 4 oz., and  a 5/0 for the 2oz. to tie for Flounder. Had to do a little work for the 5/0 to fit right.

If I get into anything larger than 8oz, the ladle will get a workout. Most of us don't have a spin cast machine.

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 Well, all went great this weekend. I started out pouring with my Lee IV bottom pour and this baby poured her heart out all weekend long. Every cavity filled with no problems from the first down to the 200th jig. I was ready for the worst and had my other pot out just in case things went south, but all was great. The only thing I am not accustomed to, is how long it takes for a 2 oz jig to cool.

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 Well, all went great this weekend. I started out pouring with my Lee IV bottom pour and this baby poured her heart out all weekend long. Every cavity filled with no problems from the first down to the 200th jig. I was ready for the worst and had my other pot out just in case things went south, but all was great. The only thing I am not accustomed to, is how long it takes for a 2 oz jig to cool.

 Ouch!  Hahaha

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Glad it went well. The only problem I have is some times the mold gets to hot when pouring those. Cool down time is for melting more lead, and sprue cutting.

 

You are 100% absolutely correct. At one point it almost seemed like the wood handles on the Do-It mold were getting hot. If I did this for any amount of big numbers, I would invest in another duplicate mold. It would give the other mold time to cool down a bit.

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The 4 oz. really makes 'em hot. Most times, I pour one at a time because the 4oz. is the best seller at the beach. When I get in a hurry and need the other 2 sizes, I pour 2 at a time, but never all 3. Have you ever had a mold go bad from getting to hot for to long?

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The 4 oz. really makes 'em hot. Most times, I pour one at a time because the 4oz. is the best seller at the beach. When I get in a hurry and need the other 2 sizes, I pour 2 at a time, but never all 3. Have you ever had a mold go bad from getting to hot for to long?

I have never had one go bad, but when I pour a smaller jig like a 1 oz for several hours, the mold does expand some, and I either get flash, or the jig gets stuck in the mold. So what I believe is happening, is either the mold is warping a bit (thus the flash) or the cavity expands and contracts too fast, thus not releasing my jig. However this is my first time pouring 2 oz and 3 oz baits.

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I ran 20 lbs of lead through a Do-It worm weight mold the other day.  Did it in just over an hour pouring two cavities.  We use those two sizes for spinner bodies.  Mold handles were HOT.  Never had any flash or problems.  Ran another 20 lbs through it today.

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Hey Cad, how did you make out painting them? Wrist get a little tired?  I use a set of vise grips on the hook to hold them while heating/coating. Was just curious how you like doing the bigger jig.

Painting them, well went slow. It takes a lot to reheat a jig that big and then to cover it with paint. Yes, my standard forceps didn't cut it in hold the jigs. I definitely needed some strong holding power, so I did use vice grips. If I had to do this on a regular basis, I would have to find a quicker way to paint these. Maybe etching primer and lacquer paint. Also taping the hook would be a better choice if I went that route, as the clamping and unclamping of hooks in vice grips can get annoying and time consuming. Definitely a learning curve here.

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About 70 secends in front of the hot air gun for the 4 oz., or use the torch and save a lot of time.  I saw there is a thing that you can hook up your air supply to for 3-4 air brush guns, and use all three at once. All of them are ready to go. May get one of them and air brush the powder paint on with those badger sandblaster brushes.

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About 70 secends in front of the hot air gun for the 4 oz., or use the torch and save a lot of time.  I saw there is a thing that you can hook up your air supply to for 3-4 air brush guns, and use all three at once. All of them are ready to go. May get one of them and air brush the powder paint on with those badger sandblaster brushes.

 

I seen that as well. I believe it is called a air brush manifold, where you can plug several air brushes into it. If I had to do this on a regular basis, it would definitely have to be air-brushed.

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I use a ladle and pot for anything over 3 ounces.

I do a lot of big jigs and a lot of ladle pouring.

 

I was just going to mention when I tested your big jigs I used the same pot I melted the lead in.  It has a pour spout on one lip.

 

However, yesterday I was testing a 3 cavity mold with 1/4 1/2 and 1 oz jigs (similar to yours)  yesterday, and once I cranked up the heat they all filled just fine from my bottom pour Lee Pot other than the fact that it drips when the heat is cranked up.  

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Used my hot pot 2 to melt some tin today for some tin flutter jigs.

I have to say I much prefer the ladle and pot over the pour from the pot method.

I did like that I could melt and pour the tin this way though as I don't have a lot of it.

For most of my bigger jigs I made a hook tool for dipping them in my fluid beds,

It is made from Stainless TIG welding wire and some scrap 3/4" stainless tubing.

Drilled a hole through the tubing in the center.

I bent one end of the wire 90* leaving enough tag end so I could secure it to the tubing with electrical tape.

Taped it on good then bent a hook in the other end.

I made a few of them so I have an extra one handy.

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