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MarkSpolarich

Need Help With A Paint Issue

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I have paint shifting on my baits after dipping into Dick Nite topcoat. All baits are painted with Createx and I have never had this before with Createx (or any other paint for that matter. My immediate thought is the lures may have a film of mold release on them that i needed to clean off because it happened to almost everyone one of my Shad Rap #7 knock-offs. A select few other styles did it as well but not like the Raps did.

Here are some pictures of the problem:

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Just in case, here is the top coat

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The only time I've had this problem, and mine was much worse than that in the pics, was when I used DN over a paint with solvent in it. I had used Dupli-Color chrome for one of the layers in the paint scheme and when I dipped the bait it wrinkled immediately. I've heard some guys say they think their problem was from not having the paint completely dry. I can't address that problem because I dry everything thoroughly with a heat gun.

 

If all the layers of paint, including the base coat, were properly dried Createx then I'm not sure where your problem started. Like you, I've never had this issue using Createx, Auto Air or Wicked Colors.

 

Wish I could be of more help.

 

Ben

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That looks like a chemical reaction between the paint and the clear coat. Some times if the clear is to thick and takes just a few minutes to long to dry it will desolve the paint. The same finish if applied thinner so it will dry quicker won't cause the same problem.

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Yeah I think I recall the same advice from an older post. Warming the MCU prior to dipping or brushing will allow it to flow easier, resulting in a thinner and faster curing initial coat. Might help.

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If it was noticed primarily on the rap style blanks, maybe the surface just needs a little extra scuffing with fine sandpaper to give the base coat a little more to adhere to.

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Thanks for all the replies and advice/suggestions. After letting them dry i was able to scratch the paint off fairly easy, leaving me to believe the baits needed cleaning. I wiped the remainder of my blanks with acetone and will let all know what happens.

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The chemical reaction that took place is similar to the way paint stripper works. When it starts to desolve the paint it looses its adhesion. It actually made the paint swell, thus the wrinkles.

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Thanks Musky. After cleaning and painting my other blanks they did experience minor wrinkling and it was limited to areas along the back and belly seams. I guess I will have to sand them after cleaning with acetone to ensure good adhesion of the primer.

 

I did some repaints of wooden crankbaits and none of those showed the wrinkling. All I did with those was remove the old topcoat on some and sand them all prior to priming.

 

Odd thing is I am doing nothing different than I used to do when I still painted for Custom Lures Unlimited, at least by what i remember. I am using different cranbait bodies than i did back then so that is why I am leaning towards primer adhesion being my issue.

 

One thing I never tried back then was spraying the Dick Nite Top Coat. Has anyone done this and if so can you share the technique (tricks)?

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When you investigate a wrinkling problem with Dick Nite you need to be specific about what coatings, including primers and paint, are under the topcoat and also specific about how you apply and cure the DN.  I use undercoating that does not contain solvent, paint with various brands of water based acrylic dried well with a hair dryer, then either quickly brush on the DN or dip the baits in it and hang them up so any excess DN drips off the tail of the bait before it can wrinkle the paint.  Can't remember the last time I had a wrinkle. 

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Never thought about asking Dick about the wrinkling. The same as in the past, i am using krylon primer with createx paint and dry each applied color with a hair dryer. I dip the bait in the topcoat and hang so excess drips off tail. Since i have never experienced this before and since i am using bodies i didn't in the past i presumed my problem is related to them. I guess it could be the krylon primer has changed since 2008.

This last painting i did show minimal wrinkling only on certain baits. I will do the acetone wipe and sand the seams on my next ones to see if i can eliminate it.

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If I was having this problem the first thing I would check would be the Krylon primer. No doubt that using a rattle can primer is faster when doing multiple baits, but if it's causing you problems on even a few baits then your not saving time by using it. All that's necessary to test this would be to spray your base coat with the same type of paint your using to paint your color scheme.

 

Ben

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I'll give it a try Ben. Still puzzles me because I have painted hundreds of baits in the past with the same techniques and experienced no issues.

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You never can tell Mark. There might have been a discovery that a component of Krylon's paint formula was found to be harmful to people or the environment and they had to make a change in the chemical composition of their paints. Not too long ago Dick Nite went through this problem with his MCU. The company that was providing one of the chemicals for his top coat quit producing it and he had to search for a new supplier. If I remember correctly he ended up having to reformulate his top coat and go through an extended period of testing to make sure the new formula lived up to the standards of the original formula.

 

It could also be that Krylon has the same makeup and that the new DN has something in it that doesn't play well with the Krylon. Whatever the reason I'm thinking it still has something to do with a reaction between the two. And I could be completely off base, but changing your base coat should still be the easiest to test.

 

Good luck and keep us informed. :yay:

 

Ben

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I only wish you the best of luck with the finish. If the paint lays on the lure dry for a period of time and doesn't wrinkle, that is good. When you apply the finish the wrinkling starts, the finish is the problem. The finish should never get to the lure for the lure to react with the finish. The finish doesn't know what type of lure it is sprayed on until it eats through the paint, which shouldn't happen. The wrinkling starts on the out side and goes in. If it did it the other way it would do it without the finish on it. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck.

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Right or wrong, this is what I've been doing and I have had excellent results with great durability. All I use is Createx and Dick Nite. I always dip my baits in acetone and let them air dry. Never touch or wipe them down! Apply your paint, and as noted above, many lite coats with proper drying time in between. I then dip my baits in pledge and let dry overnight. Apply your final sealer coats after that, and your rock solid.

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Thanks for all the advice and help everyone. Seems that in the past 7 years i have forgot a few tricks of the trade but like when I was painting a lot and frequenting this site there is a lot of knowledge to glean from here. Bob made a remark on another post that cleared my cobwebs. When we used to use devcon for our repaints and custom baits they were primed with rattlecan primer. at some point we stopped using rattlecan primer and switched to polytranspar superhide white as our primer. I would have been using that when i started using Dike Nite topcoat.

Thanks again to all for helping me solve my dilemma and for resurrecting my memory!

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Glad you figured out your problem Mark. There's nothing more aggravating than having a paint scheme that you've worked hard on go up in flames at the last moment.

 

Ben

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Success!...basecoated with airbrush instead of rattlecan....after dippong in the topcoat i see no signs of paint wrinkling.

 

Good to hear you've solved your problem Mark. :yay:

 

Ben

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