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robalo01

Green And Red Handled Do-It Molds

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I have about 50 do-it molds, jig and sinker. I have bought about half of them on eBay. I have found that the green and red handled ones have a better finish (some of the old blue ones too). It seems they are made with better materials and have a smoother finish. Anyone else notice this?

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holy grail is a Do-it with no handles....

 

I have documented 5 manufacturing sites;

 

Denver, Iowa

 

Denver, Iowa

50622

 

501North State

Denver, Iowa

 

3136 Logan Ave.,

Waterloo, Iowa

 

3624 Logan Ave.,

Waterloo, Iowa

 

Back in 1962 you could buy a mold with no handles for $3.50 and one with a handle for $5

 

Do-it quality is not what it use to be. I like to pour with the older molds. Newer molds, especially with eye cavities, are not good ( can't say what I really want to). They need to seriously re-engineer some of their work.

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I am generally satisfied with Do-it quality considering the price, but I do keep an eye out for the older moldes and, depending on the style, I am willing to pay more for an older model in good condition than a new one. They have a better finish, the sprue is wider and the hinge pin goes al the way through both sides. I have 3-4 discontinued molds that I really like too. I think it has become more a collecting hobby than a necesity, but it is something I like to od.

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holy grail is a Do-it with no handles....

 

I have documented 5 manufacturing sites;

 

Denver, Iowa

 

Denver, Iowa

50622

 

501North State

Denver, Iowa

 

3136 Logan Ave.,

Waterloo, Iowa

 

3624 Logan Ave.,

Waterloo, Iowa

 

Back in 1962 you could buy a mold with no handles for $3.50 and one with a handle for $5

 

Do-it quality is not what it use to be. I like to pour with the older molds. Newer molds, especially with eye cavities, are not good ( can't say what I really want to). They need to seriously re-engineer some of their work.

 

Which is the oldest site?

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I'm sitting right around 80 molds right now.  The first ones I purchased were the early 80's.  I know that handle color meant something then.  Black handles were "Pro" molds.  The older molds are better IMHO.  That being said you'll not find a better mold at the price.  

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Yeah the older ones are better - I have the older blue ones, and some of the orange handle ones.  Traded my red handled molds and really wish I hadn't. 

 

I watch ebay and one's I'm looking for are in my wishlist.  Wish I could find a place to blade inserts cheaper!!!!!!!

 

When the ICAST video came out on the new molds I was really interested in the Bat Jig mold and then because tournament anglers wanted a small lead collar plus the wire keeper they changed it, plus it has a hook that only they make for it, so I'll just trade for some of the heads from a few guys I know who make them.  

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  That being said you'll not find a better mold at the price.  

 

I agree.  You just can't beat the price of a cast mold.  Its just so much cheaper to make.  Some of them are pretty good.  I do have a couple cast molds made by other companies that are satisfactory, but I don't know how many of them are still around.  

Edited by Bob La Londe
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I have also had issues with hook eye cavities. Had to rework to fit hook eye properly.

As far as finish goes, can buffing with a dremel work?

 

Yes, buffing the mold cavities will help, however it is very time consuming. You can use toothpaste, chrome cleaner, rubbing compound or jewelers rouge. They all have an abrasive substance that definitely polishes.I found by polishing certain molds, it makes the lead jig fall out of the cavity much easier. You can also polish jig heads. On jig heads it's not worth it because powder paint will cover up many of the imperfections.

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Yes, buffing the mold cavities will help, however it is very time consuming. You can use toothpaste, chrome cleaner, rubbing compound or jewelers rouge. They all have an abrasive substance that definitely polishes.I found by polishing certain molds, it makes the lead jig fall out of the cavity much easier. You can also polish jig heads. On jig heads it's not worth it because powder paint will cover up many of the imperfections.

Good to know about the different polishing media (just thought...maybe comet cleaner will work too).

Never thought about lead releasing easier as a side benefit to polishing.

I guess by being smoother the surface has less nooks and crannies for lead to stick to. Probably why older used molds work better as "painter 1" stated.

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Good to know about the different polishing media (just thought...maybe comet cleaner will work too).

Never thought about lead releasing easier as a side benefit to polishing.

I guess by being smoother the surface has less nooks and crannies for lead to stick to. Probably why older used molds work better as "painter 1" stated.

Exactly, why older molds are better. Much smoother surface, better smoother pour release. Comet would probably work as well, it probably would cut faster. I would suggest making a paste with it and apply paste as it wears away. BTW never thought of Comet, but it may make faster cutting of my hard to pour molds. Good tip :yay::yay::yay:  Thanks

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Will Drop Out, or some other kind of release agent, help rougher molds pour and release better?

Yes, it does. It's like night and day using Drop-Out. It's like frying eggs on a teflon pan, it is that good. Anyone that is starting to learn how to pour, I strongly recommend using Drop-Out. It saves a lot of headaches for new pourers. I have (2) brush jig molds that were and still are a P.I.T.A to pour. Drop-Out has helped tremendously.

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Yes, it does. It's like night and day using Drop-Out. It's like frying eggs on a teflon pan, it is that good. Anyone that is starting to learn how to pour, I strongly recommend using Drop-Out. It saves a lot of headaches for new pourers. I have (2) brush jig molds that were and still are a P.I.T.A to pour. Drop-Out has helped tremendously.

Couldn't agree more. It is amazing stuff. 

It lasts a lot of castings as well

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