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fshng2

What Is Best Way To Remove The Spru On Lead Jigs?

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After I mold a jig with pure lead the spru is removed.

One method I use to remove the spru is: Hold the spru firmly and by bending the jig back and forth the spru is removed. The only issue I have is the jig has a divit on the head. The divit is noticible after painting and looks bad.

A second method to remove the spru is with a wire stripper side cutter. After trying several cutters I have found this removes the majority of the spru.

To finish I hold the hook in a shop vise and remove the remaining remnamt with a file and sandpaper.

Would a harder lead work better?

Anyone have a method to share that is easier?.

Edited by fshng2
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I've used wheel weights myself in the past but can't remember any difference in the way the sprue twisted off. A word of cation if you don't already know but the wheel weights really need to be cleaned and fluxed to remove the impurities in them or they can cause a lot of pouring issues. I try to use only pure lead now but I only pour for myself and a few friends and not that often. There is a lot of information about this in the wire bait section of the forum

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use them all the time.got a pair from Hobby Lobby that are used for trimming leaded glass.They are heavier than then most of the ones Barlows sells

That's exactly what I'm looking for something heavier. The little gate shears just don't work for me. We don't have a Hobby Lobby do you have the part number or who makes it?

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Knipex dikes is what I use.

What are your thoughts for using on 3/4 to 2oz size smiling bill or spro type salt water jigs?

Found these at Home Depot after a thorough search.

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KNIPEX 6-1/4 in. 85° Angle Diagonal Flush Cutters Model: 72 21 160

Product details

Diagonal provides a fully flush cut when cutting tie-wraps, plastic, soft metals and molded plastic components from spruces. The 85° angled head provide better visibility and increased cutting access.

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Edited by fshng2
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Andy 1976, yes I have removed the sprue with the mold hot and twisting the sprue off. Removing hot improves the look of the area but it still leaves a divet that is evident after powder painting. Not to mention is painful on the wrists after 3 or 4 hours.

Removing with a flush type cutter fitted with longer handles is not painful on the wrists.

Then filing and sanding the remnant looks best on the finished product.

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I use them for the same JIG HEADS up to 3 ounces. Not much cleaning up. Sometimes I will make 2 cuts depending on where the sprue is.Also works great on large sinkers and custom jigs that I DO

That's great to know you use it on the same or similar gigs as I will. I mold some 3 oz but mainly 2oz and under. Do these stay sharp after many uses?

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