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Bubbadoyle

Keeping Topcoat Off Of Bills

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Just wondering what you guys do to keep your topcoat off of the bills. I made a nice jerkbait and was using Solarez on my lure turner. Didn't notice it but a big glob made its way onto the bill and got cured that way. After that the action was not even close to as good as it was before it was topcoated. I know the weight of the topcoat could factor in here but it was a huge difference in how the bait worked and I attribute most of it to the glob of Solarez on the front of the bill.

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Bubba - yes, top coat does have a visible damping effect on a lures action. I am guessing that you may not have had your hooks fitted for the original swim test. This omission has an even more significant effect. Always test as close to finished conditions as possible.

The only information to be taken away from an initial swim test, is that it swims or it doesn't.

I am also assuming that we are talking about a new prototype, a new addition to your armory. Repeat builds should hold no surprises, as you are building to a recipe; a series of patterns, drawings, sketches and notes that help you repeat your proven design.

Dave

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I am actually new to making baits. One of the first few I've done. I did have hooks fitted for initial test. I did get quite a bit of Solarez on the bill so I am assuming that is what really hurt the action. I'm still learning so each bait I seem to make some mistake that I at least learn from. I do appreciate all the answers i get to my questions on TU. I will give the scotch tape on the bill a try. Thanks.

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I am not convinced that the blob on the bill would cause such havoc.

You could grind it off and test again, to see if it made any difference. Don't forget to report back with the results, so that we all learn something.

Another localized coat could be added to tidy up if you wish.

Dave

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You don't mention how you were applying the top coat. Since your using Solarez I'm guessing your dipping. However your applying it you seem to have gotten way too much top coat on the lure. If your dipping the baits you need to hang them up tail down and let the excess drip off the tail of the bait. In other words let it drip until it stops dripping and then wipe the last drop from the hook hanger with a paper towel, toothpick or whatever you think will do the job without disturbing the top coat on the bait.

 

If your brushing it on the same rules apply. Some folks are putting their baits on a lure turner after the excess has dripped off to allow the top coat to self level. Just make sure it's not being exposed to any UV while allowing the top coat to self level as this will start the curing process and could result in the top coat not curing to a smooth finish.

 

Ben

 

p.s. If you try using scotch tape to keep top coat off the lip just be sure to remove the tape before curing. Once a top coat has cured it's a PITA to get the thin strip of tape out from under any cured top coat. Don't ask me how I know.

Edited by RayburnGuy
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I was brushing on the Solarez and I probably did get it on a bit too thick. I will try to grind it off of the bill and see if it is any better. The bait still works and is my first homemade bait that I have caught a fish on. It's just lacking a lot of the action it had before paint and topcoat.

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I was brushing on the Solarez and I probably did get it on a bit too thick. I will try to grind it off of the bill and see if it is any better. The bait still works and is my first homemade bait that I have caught a fish on. It's just lacking a lot of the action it had before paint and topcoat.

 

For me, jerkbaits are so finicky I never use Solarez to top coat them.  It is too heavy, and affects the action, and the buoyancy, too much.

For any bait where weight is an issue, I use a concrete sealer, AC1315.  Thin, strong, clear, UV protected (won't yellow over time), and fast.

I dip it outside with good ventilation(fumes), let it drip back into the container until it stops dripping, wipe off any excess drip at the bottom, wait 15 minutes, for it's solvent to flash off,and then hit with my hair dryer on low, to speed up the curing.  I can handle it in an hour, and fish it the next day, although waiting another day lets it cure out completely.

There are other thin top coats, like urethanes and lacquers, but this is the one I've found works best for me.

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I have ac1315. I have had issues with it curing very well. Maybe my basement is too cool. I have a kitchen hood fan vented outside so I can dip it under that. Some baits dipped in ac1315 I could still easily dent with a fingernail after a week. Maybe I need to dip them and take them to the garage and let some heat get to them. I will give it a try. Thanks.

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I had similar problems with the ac1315 but I think it is because I didn't mix it before I dipped the lures in it.  Just because it looks clear and homogenous doesn't mean that you don't have to mix it up.  I shake the can real good before I open it up now and dip the lure.  Working out better now.  My troubles with it are the paint wrinkling issues. (still, after all the dry between each coat discussions)

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I put my ac1315 in a jar to dip. I did shake it well before putting it in the jar but maybe I'm not shaking it up well enough before dipping. It seems if I get too much on the lid of the jar that it's a bear to open so I've just been swirling the jar before dipping. As far as the wrinkling goes I've eliminated almost all wrinkles with a dip in pledge and give it a full day to set up. Maybe get one or two small wrinkles in about 1 out of 5 baits by doin this.

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